Jump to content

Onoff

Members
  • Posts

    21061
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    206

Everything posted by Onoff

  1. No more primer and just a little tanking membrane left. Waiting on the new 7.5m kit. Going to do the whole room I think.
  2. @zoothorn, did you check your Notification Settings within your account?
  3. It's getting "bluer": No.1 son complaining of the smell so has retreated upstairs to his room which is unheard of!
  4. Nothing wrong with box extensions. They're the right thing for the job. Better than screw extenders. The screws that fit face plates to back boxes are "M3.5". Same ones that fit extension boxes onto back boxes. Available in different lengths if buying separate. When you buy a new face plate you generally get two new screws with it clipped in the back. Sometimes they have a fancy finish to match the face plate. You need to make sure when putting the screws in, if a bit long, you don't nick or squash the wires behind. You can cut the screws down if necessary. There exists the cheapest of cheap tools that claim to be wire strippers/bolt cutters and crimps all in one. Basically this: http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03190/wire-crimper-stripper/dp/TL19441? As a stripper they're OK 'ish. As a crimper they're utter shite, verging on dangerous imo. However...as a cutter for shortening M3.5 screws they do the job. Simply wind the screw in to the desired length and cut. If you want a basic crimper then this: http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03009/ratchet-crimping-tool/dp/TL08620?st=Crimping tool The CPC site btw is good and cheap. If you f**k up an M3.5 screw hole you can generally rethread with one of these: http://cpc.farnell.com/kamasa-tools/55821/re-threader-3-5mm-x-0-6mm/dp/TL16988?st=M3.5 Look how cheap this stuff is! If you REALLY f**k up the thread you might need to reach tap a size up, M4 with one of these: http://cpc.farnell.com/draper-tools/37924/rethreading-tool-m4-0-x-0-7/dp/TL04580?st=M4 tool Both sizes no doubt available also on eBay etc. You'll of course need an M4 screw to suit. Available in little packs if desperate from B&Q etc.
  5. Disagree if there's any chance the edges of the knockouts could cut the cable if no grommets or if the cable could be otherwise crushed. Assumes too the box will come out easily, mine don't. @zoothorn, how about these? From Toolstation: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p79641? I even found this: Tbh I don't like them as the tendency is to use them at their limits and the socket often ends up wobbly. I also like having a back box up near the socket to fill around. The "40mm" forward one sounds like it's already surface mounted? Maybe just ease forward on the screws & pack a little at the back with some penny washers (or timber / pb) so the back of the face plate is level with the face of the pb.
  6. 12.10 yesterday and on Thursday I posted up links to box extenders! Click on the links we post and try and take it it eh? Hopefully then 3rd, 4th? time lucky with @CC45 & @newhome's contributions above. I'm a bit worried in all honesty whether you're capable of safely extending the cabling. Happy to do an idiots guide. Get the power off and photograph inside the boxes that need extending.
  7. I give up...you've beaten me! Measure from the edge of the existing metal back box(es), the ones in the wall to the face of the new pb and get an EXTENSION box, not a standard back box, nearest to that dimn, ideally a mm or two under and fit that. The one you show is for surface mounting.
  8. Found it and whacked it on the wall:
  9. No! If you're planning keeping the existing socket positions you need an EXTENSION box which hasn't got a bottom. Stay there, I'll go dig one out...
  10. The extension boxes screw onto the existing boxes. A "normal" socket then screws to the front of the extension box. I'll dig some out in a while and take a pic. I guess by "industrial" you mean this sort of thing that will fit to a standard back box or extension box: Rather than this, which is for surface mounting say in a workshop setting:
  11. Seriously though does it look alright?
  12. Thought this would have been more up your street @pocster ?
  13. Looks like I've got to extend just one screened cable, result! Has anyone seen the bath control box? Seriously, wtf did I put it??? Edit: It appears SWMBO has "tidied it up"! "Grey thing with grommets and a black lead?" she said... She's now looking, I'm now drinking!
  14. Possibly, price wise: https://www.gasfm.co.uk/dt-618-digital-thermo-anemometer-4000-p.asp
  15. You know how to treat a girl. Maybe even let her go large at McDonalds too!
  16. Tanking the Aquapanel is weird...like the membrane isn't keen to "cover". Takes a second coat to get it looking 'bluer". The Geberit flaps and Aquapanel tape suck up the membrane and look much bluer though. Used half the tanking membrane. First coat. Darker patches where I've gone over it again. Genuinely done ceiling to floor. Wonder if I need some more applied higher up, especially over those jointed areas? I've not gone all the way up the wall behind the WC...figured my aim isn't that bad! Besides, with age I find the velocity isn't what it was...
  17. You see I'd chance it just for the adrenaline rush! That plus my conspriracist thinking that it's all made in the same factory anyway!
  18. That's 10m of tape used! Did round the WC too. The tape pretty much covered that nick so I'll just load with membrane over the top.
  19. What? You've only got a couple of neighbours haven't you? Jealous f***ers probably!
  20. Ta. So is all that ingredient list just for the biocide?
  21. Didn't someone already post on here about this? Just search "Sika Fence Post Mix". Sellers on Amazon, eBay etc. About £12 a pop. Not sure how many posts that'll do.....think one bag per post. There seem to be makes other than Sika too, eg: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Post-Mix-Post-Set-Post-Fix-Expanding-Foam-Bag-Fencing-Post-12-75-/132689108507? & https://www.toolsfirst.co.uk/product/osmo-post-fix/?
  22. I wonder if running it too hot has caused the pipe to expand around the nail or whatever and self seal? Maybe run as normal and try again with the camera?
  23. The Geberit wall drain area has dried off really well tbh, better than I thought. There's one bit where I cut it due to the rouching that I need to stick down. Was even thinking a dab of CT1 in that hole and push it down? You can see on the rhs where I had to (jagged) cut on the diagonal the stuff due to the rouching. It's tough as old boots and a pig to cut! The top bit laps over the bottom bit of course. As said elsewhere I've ordered another 7.5m Aquaseal kit from Amazon. I want to do around the bath and there'll be that much left I'll go around the basin area too I think. Reckon I'll end up with the whole room tanked! I had hoped to get the tiles down but I'm going to tank the primed areas today then wait until the other kit comes thru and just carry on from the primed / tanked edges where I finished. A random thought but using the tanking membrane I recognised the smell. It's I think identical to Febond Blue Grit I'm sure (aside from the grit). I got the Blue Grit for my plastering attempt. Tried it and then decided not to use it (despite much advice not to even bother ). Skimming the labels and looks pretty much the same to me. Aquaseal Tanking Membrane: Febond Blue Grit: Guessing I could have saved myself a few quid on the second kit by priming the area with SBR then after letting dry used the Blue Grit? Of course I'd have still needed more Aquaseal Tape.
  24. I've a Makita 18V drill that kept throwing the battery out. Turns out the drill body is broken one side where the battery slides in. Only a hand me down drill from a sparks sadly passed away. I got it in a box of bits and all it seemed to need was a fwd/rev lever. When the battery started throwing out I found he'd carefully repaired it at some time. It will throw one side of the battery out then the broken bit closes up making it almost impossible to figure why.
  25. Everything I've read & watched says a big brush and for seemingly good reason. First coat gets brushed horizontally. Second coat goes on vertically so brush lines are straight down. Thinking being if water gets under the tiles it runs down in the vertical "grooves" in the membrane. Interesting in that as this bit around the wall drain is drying it's contracting and looking better / tighter.
×
×
  • Create New...