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Everything posted by Onoff
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pros and cons of below shading options
Onoff replied to vk108's topic in Energy Efficient & Sustainable Design Concepts
There'd be a certain irony if a cricket ball went through the oval window..... -
Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Onoff replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
I'm feeling it might be time to re look at the magazine fed bog roll dispenser idea! -
Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Onoff replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
The back wall will get a quick coat of something pre boarding out just so it looks all neat and tidy when I take the removable panel off. -
Septic Tank v Sewage Treatment Plant
Onoff replied to canalsiderenovation's topic in Waste & Sewerage
Had a call from from my new neighbour earlier. Turns out it wasn't a treatment plant I saw being lowered into his front garden that I saw driving by. It was in fact a giant LPG tank! ? He's still got a big "hole in the ground" like us but the vendors had it emptied before he bought it. Has said he may be considering a treatment plant at some time in the future. Back to square one. -
'Cos they're brilliant. The floor board screws just work.
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Just make sure that your UFH pipes are very well secured so they don't lift / bend and end up poking through the top of the screed.
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You can afford it! ?
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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Onoff replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Just when they thought it was all over... I was going to dump the tile off cuts: I've got these and 5 boxes of 10 unused tiles. (Long story, but I got more than ordered). Got to decide what I'm doing in the cupboard. Well, I want to tile it...SWMBO wants to "save the tiles for when we do the ensuite"...like 50 tiles are going to go very far! They'd finish off the cupboard though. Maybe a full width, removable panel mid way up the rear wall, so I can get to the supply valve and my arm in to the back of the Geberit still. I might tile around as far as as the vertical slot where the loo rolls are going to stack -
I was thinking on those lines. Steeper the angle the greater the spacing needs to be to avoid shadowing.
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Ever realised these existed, thanks. What's the all up weight of one of these or does it depend on panel size? Got a SW facing hip that although ideal for solar, I'd like to change to a gable ends. Don't think I'd get pp though. Options to put those trays atop the dormers though: Once the roof is sorted...
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I have this stuff to go on: Meant to seal the tiles and grout before first use then periodically thereafter to reduce cleaning frequency.
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Mate bought a load of fixings from here: https://www.klokow-gmbh.de Said they were cheaper than anywhere in the UK even with shipping. Don't know the score now with regards to the B word!
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F*** me no! There were already tall, rotten, swing gates here! I just got rid and put the sliding gate on. Height is temporary anyway until I make the wrought ironwork that'll go across the top. The black, wooden section will reduce in height then
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Westmorland cottages renovation and extension
Onoff replied to cloughapike's topic in Introduce Yourself
Welcome. My place didn't look too bad before I started on it!- 5 replies
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No. I just replaced the existing rotten swing gates that were here. Everybody here has high gates now to try and deter the undesirables.
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Is this balustrade a show thing? External or internal? Seems mad not to fix direct to that lovely big bit of steel.....something like this I was thinking.
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I didn't zoom in to realise you already had a gate there. Just fit the new one (s) but take a pic of the old one closed. Try not to go any higher or just take the pic of the old one whilst you're sitting on the floor so if looks higher!
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If it's over a metre high. Probably.
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What form will the balustrade take / look like? I'm thinking along the lines of drill and tap (if you don't want to weld) some base fixings into the top flange of that steel then cast concrete in-situ up level with them. Couple of stiff timbers as shuttering tied together with some studs. Doddle.
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You're not allowed to go too high: https://www.planningportal.co.uk/wales_en/info/3/common_projects/17/fences_gates_and_garden_walls
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Going with a floor to ceiling height in excess of 2400mm. Started off at approx 2470. As I replaced the ceiling joists anyway I should have set them lower. Thought I had it covered by buying in 2700mm boards to save myself a join in the plaster board. What I didn't account for was the line of slim rips needed by the ceiling. Took forever to do. If I'd had thought about it some more I could have had pretty much full tiles all the way up, lost the rips at the window sill etc. Should have lowered the wall length shelf above the bath/basin to the height of the window sill. Wall mirror and shaver socket would have been better positioned for say someone shorter or in a wheelchair. Should have brought the 2G window further in rather than leaving it level with the outside face of the cavity wall. Should have bought one of these kits for doing the silicone years ago: Should have mitred this trim joint: Should have used grey solvent weld soil instead of the brown along the bottom of this wall. Could have saved all the worry and having to buy gap filling pvc cement: Overall though the quality of my wall tiling is my biggest downfall. It'll make it a pita to clean on some bits and keep snaggjng the cloth I'm sure. The shelf height thing above a close second though, the Feng Shui there is just wrong.
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It's common to have headed shear studs atop steel beams that concrete slabs tie into.
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How tall is the concrete block line? Could you weld expanding metal to the top of the steel then cast the run of "blocks" in situ?
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My chippy mate was moving factory unit and it was a case of "everything must go". Never say no is my motto! Got enough box section to do my gate posts and enough left over to make a car rotisserie for one of my Capris...still in the planning stages that project...
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Yes ran them through the Elu on edge. Best method I could think of but best with a helper to receive the wood as they can help pull it through. Biscuit bit in a router is another option. I chamfered all 4 long edges too. These reject scaffold boards can vary on the thickness by a few mm so that helps hide it. I only glued them in one side. It's so as the timber shrinks and grows with the seasons there's never a gap between the boards
