Onoff

The time has come! Currently I have no ventilation in the bathroom other than the window. The original plan was to use a wall mounted, single room Ventaxia but tbh I think they are bloody ugly! It was @Ferdinand's recent thread that put me onto one of these: I can mount this up in the loft which is pretty much a blank canvas. But where to put the vents as in there are 4. There's two go outside as I understand it and I guess they just have to be a certain distance apart. Planning those in the soffit. But the two inside??? In the interests of keeping some symmetry I was thinking maybe one vent where the green Post-It is high up on the wall behind the rainfall head. It'd go through that tile into the void behind the mitred corner then up through the ceiling to the unit in the loft. I fancy the challenge! Then the 4th vent, maybe in the ceiling outside the bathroom, again where the green Post-it is? This room is next to be gutted much as bathroom was, as in ceiling replaced, floor dug down etc: (Temporary bathroom door btw). Or inside the bathroom? Big question, the MVHR unit and pipes in the loft: The loft is cold and uninsulated. Do the unit and ducts need to be "lagged"? Thanks

I have this Humidex 7 dehumidifier I got as a freebie years ago. Still works fine (or did). I wonder if this would be suitable for him? Too heavy though for me to train it up to him. HSS want £130 a week hire at a quick glance for a dehumifier. Spec on this I think is 10 litres per day:

Tazer?

Read Part K about if kids can climb it etc.

Edit: Comments withdrawn. Personal apology being made. Don't ask.

It does imo. We can cherry pick to our hearts content: "Guarding of areas used for maintenance For all buildings 3.4 Where people will use the stairs or ladders to access areas for maintenance they should comply with one of the following. a. If access will be required frequently (e.g. a minimum of once per month): follow provisions such as those suggested for dwellings in this Approved Document (see Diagram 3.1). b. If access will be required less frequently than once a month: it may be appropriate to use temporary guarding or warning notices. The Construction (Design and Management) Regulations 2007 and the Work at Height Regulations 2005 give provisions for such measures. 3.5 Use signs as specified in the Health and Safety (Safety Signs and Signals) Regulations 1996". Also: "For areas where access is required only for maintenance, greater care can be expected from people and therefore a lower standard of provision may be acceptable". Working at Height regs are referred to also. The full Part K doc: EXT.Approved-Document-K-Protection-from-Falling-ENG-2013.JMCN_.v1.200417.pdf Is access required perhaps to these areas for periodic window cleaning, maintenance of pv panels etc? Agreed though it needs a frank discussion as to why these requirements have been specified.

He has rigged a temporary shower curtain.

Part K applies in terms of the broad need for protection. Guessing these areas are accessible for (roof) maintenance only? Consideration might be given to a suitable, unobtrusive, safety harness eyebolt(s) mounted on say a wall whereby you could attach a retractable fall restraint block upon accessing the area.

Agreed but some LAs kick off about visible handrail. Know to our cost where we fitted handrail instead of the spec'd L'way and had to rip it all out. I did years ago manage to fit handrail on a building with sight lines to St Paul's by arguing it was the safest option. Does the @Adam2 want handrail?

No just this one.

I suggested battens with 50mm pir in between then mrpb over the top. Would bring the main wall out by about 65mm. He's worried though this would put the bath too close to the rad valve: I therefore suggested maybe raking the bath panel in at the bottom like I've done on mine. Got to admit I'd be taking that ceiling down to see if it's wet from the flat roof above.

I only did the perimeter dpc as my walls were rough. Go with the vcl I would.

Latchways are sh!t loads of money. All 316 stainless steel. I should know, my firm is a Class 1 Installer. Looks the mutt's nuts if done well. Originally designed to go around the perimeter of yachts etc. Weightanka with a suitable retractable fall restraint system might be an option. You have to ensure you can clip on from a point of safety. Think also of the arc of swing if you were say fully deployed at the max length and fell off the short edge of the roof...pendulum time! Fall restraint is the way to go NOT fall arrest. If you fell off the side of the 3m drop with an arrest lanyard on you'd likely hit the deck before it had fully deployed. Then there's rescue plans, suspension trauma etc to consider.

Half a serious question... Would they work in an internal situation? As in in a floor and as part of a wood floor...with UFH in that floor. Keep half thinking of displaying SWMBO's late cousin's fossils ever since I saw similar in the walls of the Natural History Museum. However...a constant reminder of loss...visions of grandchildren going headfirst onto them...are they slippery? Tbh I think they would look better in a hall...

VIDEO of the fan, clearly not mvhr! Guess is they shower and some in the house, not all, just don't bother to switch it on. There's the left hand wall where the shower riser is and taps below. Tiles are stuck pretty fast here except the ones low down by the taps. This is a VIDEO of the main wall over the bath: Then the right hand wall, tiles are stuck fast. If it's brick outside and blocks on the inner leaf my guess is the damp and tiles lifting issue is purely down to lack of ventilation and the constant spray on that wall over the years. What in the way of insulation could he line that wall with? Battens and 50mm pir like I've done?

Spiral stairs?

Looks good to me. Thinking about it...On two previously damp walls (external path higher than dpc) I just ran a metre high piece of blue DPM a metre up the walls. I then put the stud wall in front of that. VCL (green) went on face of studs.

I hereby give up the @onoffcrownfor makingitupasyougoalong to @pocster! ????????????????

That's what I was thinking. Tbh my dpm comes up and is glued to the face of the studs. The face of the studs is then covered in vcl and joined to the dpm that comes up. All to make it draught free as possible.

As it stands you've no insulation as I see it at the slab edge? Think I'd bring one of those upstand pieces up to the screed height. What is it, 50mm? You could lose that pretty much with the plaster board and skirting and have the flooring just oversail the edge maybe...

Similar to what I did then. I spaced all my timber off the wall by a minimum of a 5mm pack and gun foamed the gap behind as a token against cold bridging through the timber. I think your pir upstand wants to come up to the finished screed height. The upstand limits heat leeching through the slab edge as well as guarding against expansion when the slab heats up, to stop it pushing against the walls. Not sure if pir on its own is good for that. I used a corrugated cardboard/eps sandwich against the upstand. Others favour like a rubbery foam strip. The cleverer brigade will be along shortly.

Does that wall pir continue down behind the horizontal timber? Ideally you want no gap / a continuation between floor pir and wall pir to avoid cold bridging.

Search "accoustic foam fire rated".

£25 vs £400+ here. No contest! Of course it could be coincidental that in moving the freezer in / out from where it was it's gone back more level!

Ours WAS noisy... then it died. New thermostat sorted it. See my thread.