Onoff

Ever realised these existed, thanks. What's the all up weight of one of these or does it depend on panel size? Got a SW facing hip that although ideal for solar, I'd like to change to a gable ends. Don't think I'd get pp though. Options to put those trays atop the dormers though: Once the roof is sorted...

I have this stuff to go on: Meant to seal the tiles and grout before first use then periodically thereafter to reduce cleaning frequency.

Mate bought a load of fixings from here: https://www.klokow-gmbh.de Said they were cheaper than anywhere in the UK even with shipping. Don't know the score now with regards to the B word!

F*** me no! There were already tall, rotten, swing gates here! I just got rid and put the sliding gate on. Height is temporary anyway until I make the wrought ironwork that'll go across the top. The black, wooden section will reduce in height then

Welcome. My place didn't look too bad before I started on it!

No. I just replaced the existing rotten swing gates that were here. Everybody here has high gates now to try and deter the undesirables.

Is this balustrade a show thing? External or internal? Seems mad not to fix direct to that lovely big bit of steel.....something like this I was thinking.

I didn't zoom in to realise you already had a gate there. Just fit the new one (s) but take a pic of the old one closed. Try not to go any higher or just take the pic of the old one whilst you're sitting on the floor so if looks higher!

If it's over a metre high. Probably.

What form will the balustrade take / look like? I'm thinking along the lines of drill and tap (if you don't want to weld) some base fixings into the top flange of that steel then cast concrete in-situ up level with them. Couple of stiff timbers as shuttering tied together with some studs. Doddle.

You're not allowed to go too high: https://www.planningportal.co.uk/wales_en/info/3/common_projects/17/fences_gates_and_garden_walls

Going with a floor to ceiling height in excess of 2400mm. Started off at approx 2470. As I replaced the ceiling joists anyway I should have set them lower. Thought I had it covered by buying in 2700mm boards to save myself a join in the plaster board. What I didn't account for was the line of slim rips needed by the ceiling. Took forever to do. If I'd had thought about it some more I could have had pretty much full tiles all the way up, lost the rips at the window sill etc. Should have lowered the wall length shelf above the bath/basin to the height of the window sill. Wall mirror and shaver socket would have been better positioned for say someone shorter or in a wheelchair. Should have brought the 2G window further in rather than leaving it level with the outside face of the cavity wall. Should have bought one of these kits for doing the silicone years ago: Should have mitred this trim joint: Should have used grey solvent weld soil instead of the brown along the bottom of this wall. Could have saved all the worry and having to buy gap filling pvc cement: Overall though the quality of my wall tiling is my biggest downfall. It'll make it a pita to clean on some bits and keep snaggjng the cloth I'm sure. The shelf height thing above a close second though, the Feng Shui there is just wrong.

It's common to have headed shear studs atop steel beams that concrete slabs tie into.

How tall is the concrete block line? Could you weld expanding metal to the top of the steel then cast the run of "blocks" in situ?

My chippy mate was moving factory unit and it was a case of "everything must go". Never say no is my motto! Got enough box section to do my gate posts and enough left over to make a car rotisserie for one of my Capris...still in the planning stages that project...

Yes ran them through the Elu on edge. Best method I could think of but best with a helper to receive the wood as they can help pull it through. Biscuit bit in a router is another option. I chamfered all 4 long edges too. These reject scaffold boards can vary on the thickness by a few mm so that helps hide it. I only glued them in one side. It's so as the timber shrinks and grows with the seasons there's never a gap between the boards

Just recalled I found this in the old stable buried with other junk. No idea whether it works or not. Oh well, that's this afternoon's diversion sorted!

Stephensons in Bromley, Rapid in Eynsford, Filmers in Dartford....God I loved old school electronics shops! Bi-Pak, Greenweld, TK Electronics... Then Maplin came along and killed them all.

I just wondered if the Finder contactor was priced down to the bone then the (10K?, more?) neon resistance across the coil might have seen it not pulling in properly. Open it up and look at the contact faces?

I was about 12 I think and more interested in scavenging old tvs, hi-fis or anything with a plug from dumps and tips than anything at school. As payment for digging a neighbours footings me and a mate got breakfast bought for us in some cafe in Deptford opposite the doss house. He got cash on top, I got the whole E12 range of resistors from Garlands!

Could the resistance of the neon across A1/A2 have affected the coils ability to bring the contactor in properly? Is there a spare set of NO contacts on that ABB relay. I'd use them to feed the neon.

The manual that screen shot came from. Page 42: pdf2040.pdf What interested me was the pc connection option. You and a few others on here would have a field day with the source code!

It's the finish line eludes me! Why finish one project when you can start 10! Tbh the gate and to some extent the bathroom are just CAD drawings made real. I literally made the shuttering to the CAD dimensions, had the gate frame made again to the CAD drawing.

Swiss actually. I know that's splitting Herrs...

Italian lift we've just converted to 230V. Impressed with the components but awful wiring, not a ferrule in sight!