Onoff

Hot air gun I use.

Not much that Cable Craft don't do: www.cablecraft.co.uk

Thanks. The duct will be in an up and over inverted U shape. Up through the ceiling into the loft somewhere NW of the rainfall head pipe. It'll then exit out over that wall plate to a soffit vent much as the soil pipe does. All will change again if I do gable ends instead of these hips:

For now...my "for now" I'm going to fit a bog standard extractor and not worry about MVHR. I'm still thinking to have the extractor where the green Post It note is, high up on the mitred corner: A sparks mate has just fitted one of these. Tbh he went for is based purely on aesthetics. Looks good too to my mind having blue LEDs. Yes, a bit gimicky but it ticks my boxes! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cata-E100GSTH-Grey-Glass-Vent-Extraction-Fan-100mm-With-Humidistat-Timer/272246942762?epid=1138908186&hash=item3f632eac2a:g:~EQAAOSw9VZXPEwX Height wise I'm going to have to have a measure in relation to the rainfall head. If then I punch a 100mm hole through that tile I'm into the "void" behind the mitred corner. Looking back the constrction is thus: Battened and pir'd the walls: Pre finsishing the insulation this is how the 3/4" ply goes in the corner: There's this sort of a void then behind there: The ply then has the green vcl over it: It's then Aqua Pannelled over and tiled: If I put a hole through that mitre, into the void, and take flexible duct up through the ceiling in the loft, should I be worried about interstitial condensation forming in the void? Will that vent position be so placed that I can use it later on if I fit MVHR? (Yes it would be easier to stick it on the ceiling). One other question, calcualting the fan size puts it in the mid 90s m3/hr so this fan at 115m3/hr appears OK. My room volume calc took into account the cupboard volume though wher the door will be always shut. Can I ignore the cupboard volume or should I take it into account? There's a nom 10mm gap underneath. Cheer

Thinking out loud... I reckon you could use a biscuit jointer to route peripheral slots in a thick board. Then commission some METAL biscuits with a counter sunk hole for fixing. The biscuits could be sized to give the desired gap between boards. Mega dust trap behind... I'd be worried about the board "drumming" with fixings just around the edge. How about.....MDF panels as a wall covering? You could get them laser or water jet cut as interlocking, organically etc shaped panels and have them powder coated.

Response from Oz: Unfortunately the ShadowFIX system can only be sold with our plywood. We do not have a UK distributor, we can pack up and quote ex-Brisbane if you organise the shipping. Regards Lizan Yee National Sales and Marketing Manager AUSTRAL PLYWOODS P 07 3426 8666 | D 07 3426 8628 | M 0439 277 223 E lizan.yee@australply.com.au | W australply.com.au

Looks brilliant. The colour combos; house, wood, blocks, just "work" . That corner detailing really sets it all off. Screams attention to detail. You must be very pleased. Your cr@p photos dont do it justice!

??? Can only see the first .mov file... EDIT: My mistake, two vids.

Venetian plaster looks the mutts nuts but is an artform. @PeterStarck's is lovely.

shadowFIX brackets?

You don't want things getting too dry.

Buffalo Board would look nice...maybe...£££! Good company this: https://www.lathamtimber.co.uk/products

Condensation is the bain of my life at the mo.

Again, a thanks from me for @Temp too. I will try over the weekend to play with bits he did for me. (Donation also made).

Be brave!

No, it's a c***! Worst job in my bathroom by far. Mind I'd never done it.

Just sounds wrong.

Bloody FT readers! I feel very conspicuous at the station amongst them clutching my free Metro.

Couple of hours tonight.

I tried giving a laugh / thanks AND like. Best supplier REVIEW ever, still laughing. Splash zone reaches the duck if you're not careful. I'd need them to meet. Compounded by the mixer position. Rhs doors would clout it? Tbh I'm not overly bothered as I tanked everything but NOT the side of the bath, though I did the bath "deck". We squeegee the floor afterwards and I at least kick my used towel around the floor as you advise people I believe. Whatever, the experience is very nice. The rainfall is great. Being 6"5" it's great to be able to stand up straight under it.

No ideas. I don't approach anything with any real scientific acumen. Monkey see, monkey do.

Why mix water and lots of amps if you can avoid it? A simple bar mixer is the simplest and easiest to maintain / replace if it goes wrong as everything is external to the tiles. With my concealed mixer type first I've to prise off the back plate that has a horseshoe bead of silicone between the back and the tiles. That done I have access to the cartridges etc with box spanners inc a 46mm one (meant for a Landrover I think). If however any of the x4 15mm compression joints, 8 if you include the male 1/2" BSP into the mixer body should ever leak, then its smash a tile out time!

@PeterStarck, am I correct in thinking you hired a concrete crusher yourself after the above where you had someone in? Thinking of one of these for a weekend: https://www.micromachinehire.co.uk/machines/purple-pulveriser-4000-series

Nick, any chance of a PM pls where you got these doors from + some idea of cost too for a two door kit like the pic. SWMBO and the kids well happy with the wet room corner but I don't like the albeit slight over spray that goes 1 tile beyond the falls area if you're not careful. The UFH, body dryer and venting will help I know I just want options. You know me, my mind's going off on an exotic forced air curtain / force field at the mo!

Yep I know I ideally want deep discharge types. However.....x4 12Ah batteries of the same type, wired to give 24V used to run my lads kiddie car a treat. Used to get about 45 mins of driving between charges. Had a 5th battery under the bonnet running 12V headlights. Beggars can't be etc.