Onoff

Don't antagonise your neighbour. You need to move the goal posts.

UFH? Just wing it...I am.

This was the thread. Page 1 you want. It was @Stones used Fix A Floor on his engineered oak floor in a similar situation to yours. Interesting you say you paid attention to levels. Is it that there's a hollow underneath or is the floor covering bowed? Not that it really matters. I wonder if you have to inject this stuff then weight the floor down and / or keep off it until it's set? Maybe a leave overnight job.

Pretty sure there was a thread on it a while back...never used it myself.

Fix A Floor? Like you can use on "hollow" tiles maybe. Pretty sure one of the injectable fixes only needs a 3mm hole.

Thoroughly enjoyed that. Not a f***ing Scooby what he was on about mind. Head hurts.

How can it be 2.5m to the eaves BOTH sides?

Another thing...if that land is unregistered can you not lay claim against it?

Assuming the stream forms a boundary between zoot's and the unregistered land then isn't it that any part of the building like the proposed supports need to be at least 2m from the boundary?

My old Belle cement mixer and stand have seen better days. Could do with a new one for when I do the gate pillars shortly. This popped up at random, 68L for circa £110. Worth it? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Buy-Electric-Cement-Mixer-Portable-Concrete-Mortar-Mixing-Machine-UK-HEAVY-DUTY-/273907472838

Doing if without proper approval if needed...could be a slippery slope.

Why waste this "brown gold"? https://www.motherearthnews.com/renewable-energy/other-renewables/biogas-generator-zm0z14aszrob 2 to 3 cows required here: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library/methane_nepal.html

You can cut cills down easy enough with a FINE tipped blade in a chop saw to match the window width. You might get away with a general purpose blade but it can go wrong and shatter it. Whatever, if you cut it get rid of the wispy, hairy bits with the tip of a Stanley blade etc. You get end caps for the cills you stick on with mitre bond to help stop water and creepy crawlies getting into the cill. (Ignore the bit of trim with holes in, I was just gauging for render depth and thd eventual proper trim). In this case the original cill was wider than the window so I just went with it. This one I cut the cill to the window width:

Why not just fit Sage Glass?

If you get the size bang on you could just silicone it. Have another measure and you might find it's a standard size. Sometimes you need to chip away a bit of mortar to see the frame edges. In my case my external walls were rendered so I had to make good. I braced some strips of timber to render up to. You can also get various upvc trim profiles to cover the edges. It's a big thing for so called "professional" installers to whack in undersized windows with damn great gaps, not fill them with foam or Compriband and put trim on to make things look good. Double glazed windows with huge gaps...the original windows were often less draughty!

Nah, he'll see right through that idea.

He'll buy a new one.

But you can manage 30,000 feet as long as it's in First Class?

Think you'll want 22mm rather that 18mm chipboard t&g with 600mm centres.

What are the nominal truss centres? 600?

How about a single room MVHR?

Had a quick pace out last night. More like 9 x 6m area for the main "rectangle" of the drive but aiming to make a bit bigger to get another car on. Think I'll sort my gate pillars first then that'll make the working area for doing the drive more secure.

Fitting the extract...or not... I wanted it on the wall, up high, SHE wanted it on the ceiling. Came round to the ceiling as dead central to the tile (aesthetically best) would have put it firmly in Zone 1. Besides, because of the rainfall head being a "fixed shower head", Zone 1 extends to that height. So on the ceiling tight to the mitred wall to miss the joist above. The ideal was mid way between mitred wall and rainfall head like this: Except, as I said there's a joist and the hole would have gone right through it. As aforementioned very conscious of the joist above... It should have missed the joist by a mile... Except that...I forgot the ceiling joists aren't parallel to the room walls from when I squared the room up! The bathroom wall this end is about 3" further into the room. It's going here now though I'll just sister a joist alongside the "scalloped" one. It's a bitch scalloping a 145mm deep joist! Multitool, break off bits, drill, multitool repeat. ?

Measure existing window and get new one made to that. I did a drawing for mine when I replaced a couple: Don't forget about the cill: I made some wooden wedges up: Trial fitted: Wedged and LOW EXPANSION FOAMED: An excellent alternative to expanding foam is an expanding foam tape like Compriband. Comes on a roll and is about 1/4" thick. You have to be quick. Unroll and stick around the window frame and cill. 3rd picture above, the tape sits between the raised ribs. Whack into the hole and the tape swells to about 40mm thick max. I then drilled thru and fixed the frame using these: Then glazed from the inside and fitted the glazing strips: You'll have to apply a silicone bead externally on yours. Easy job yours. I hadn't done one since years before but the good people here all chipped in. Replaced two now and a door.

I had to look up "bomag"!