Onoff

I'd first jet wash those sides to get rid of the greenery. I'd then get some 6mm galvanised garden mesh (Toolstation, Wickes). Stick bits of that over the holes with some blobs of CT1 etc and when dry and secure render over it. Nice sticky render laden with SBR. Build the render up in layers to replace where the block faces have spalled.

So glad I haven't got to weigh out £1400 on oil tomorrow...oh wait I have! ?

Does a 3Ah in 20 minutes I think?

My post here of Oct 1st shows the fitting I soldered onto copper?

My original DC18RA definitely has a fan in it!

Might have given you a bum steer ref PTFE all along the male. See page 46 here and @Nickfromwales comments and how to:

This new charger I've picked up just now either doesn't have a fan, it's not yet kicked in yet or it's duff! Red charging light on, charge bars gone from 1 to 4 but no fan noise at all so far. Charger doesn't feel overly hot.

Does the brass male have provision for a large, Allen key type hex bit? - If so securely fix your bib tap brass thing behind the tiles. Doesn't matter if it's lower than the tile face. - Put 23 turns of PTFE all along the brass male. - Wind into the brass female until it stops. - A good squidge of CT1 around the protruding male where it comes out of the tiles. - Ditch the black plastic nut. - Wind the chrome outlet onto the PTFE'd male. DO NOT TURN BACK AT ANY TIME! When up against the tiles wipe the CT1 off with a baby wipe and WALK AWAY. Do a dry run first in case you have to shorten the brass male. ...is what I'd do.

I am actually searching for a cheap YELLOW Fakita grinder that will take Makita batteries. I already have an orange one (circa £23 I think it was). Figure different colours will be good, one for a slitting disc another colour for the flap disc.

Anyway...back on thread, picked up my Makita drill & x2 5Ah battery kit just now. I need a dual charger really...

Like feeding caviar to pigs!

Norks! ?

Two separate contactors for fwd/rev. Then the main contactor set up as an NVR. I think what I thought was a separate winding on the main contactor is just a secondary little coil to energise the pilot light "P/L". Then the fwd and reverse contactors have a small set of NC auxiliary contacts. They're just used to break the feed to the other contactors coil. Just going to chuck in 3 modern contactors I think, retain the original overload (unless I can find another). The existing coils are all 415VAC. I'll either use 230 or 48VAC coils and a small control trannie if necessary. The fwd/rev is a proper (you can see it sloshing about) mercury switch. Keeps the grey matter ticking over. No star / delta on this..... It's being run off a dodgy phase converter.

The hold on contact is on 1 & 2 isn't it on that RH contactor? Drops out if the o'load trips or you press stop. Or a power failure.

Just interested more than anything. They're big lumps too. Fully strippable. 415V coils. Burnt to a crisp. Can't access the motor terminal box without moving the lathe. Measured nom 6 Ohm between each phase at the overload. IR was circa 2M Ohm each phase to earth. In a damp old shed!

Playing with an old lathe here and the main contactor cum NVR switch has burnt out. A weird thing I've never seen is the contactor coil has two windings? I've seen motor brake coils with two windings where one winding excites the brake then ms later it gets the full wallop to release but never seen a contactor like it. Contactors are pre 1948 when British Klockner were sold.

Fairy Liquid is alkaline isn't it? Try vinegar in water even over a small area, just as a test.

Tell me about it! Went to bed, cat scratched at door waking me up. Got up and let him in. Cat sat on the bedside table, I went back to sleep. Cat trod on my head waking me up. Went back to sleep. Awoken again by the cat projectile vomitting across the duvet, I woke up, shooed it out, changed the bedding. Went back to sleep. SWMBO came to bed waking me up. Went back to sleep. No.1 son woke me up as he came up the stairs to his bedroom after an all night gaming session. Genuine offer to swap one wife, son (c/w degree) and a vomitting tabby for your ASHP. I'll flog it on and buy insulation. ?

Just bought the twin 5.0Ah Makita kit with the 10% off code.

That probably means Jack Schidtt unless they want to put it in writing.

A good builder could recreate the "inny outy" effect of your original render. I seem to recall your new extension matching pretty well and that you deliberately asked for it not be all clinical and smooth? Plenty of low energy builds on here with thick walls (due to insulation) where the resulting house looks very traditional. Tbh a bad builder might actually get closer to the orginal without trying! ?

I followed 2, riding abreast, for miles along a very narrow country lane. At a junction I wound the window down and said "Excuse me mate but I'm pretty sure the Highway Code says you should have given way. Got a right mouthful back.

Been bolting steel up for 40 years. Only ever use a nyloc or full nut & spring washer on assemblies. Usually specified by someone a lot cleverer than me anyway. Very occasionally a castle nut and split pin and even rarer a tri pointed washer on HSFG (high strength friction grip) stuff. I'd have to go way back to think of the last time I used Aerotight or Binx nuts.

Very few are courteous tbh. Older ones are better. Younger types tend to glance over their shoulders then go ar$e up, head down for 4 miles whilst ignorong every opportunity to pull over/slow down/let you pass, whilst creating a tailback of traffic behind them.

Worms are good for the soil and ecosystem etc. I'd be loathe to "kill" them deliberately I'd get 5L of white vinegar, dilute it and spray the patio with it. Worms don't like acidic soils particularly. There are nuclear options but I'm not going to recommend them.