Onoff

I'll was just a bit worried the bin bag material is rather flammable.

How best do I insulate above this boiler hatch. There's 270mm (100+170) of roll stuff in the main roof then 250m of stacked Rockwool batts above the boiler...except for above the hatch.

According to ChatGPT: https://chatgpt.com/share/68e973b3-9810-8006-85ab-ce163c5f9890

Used Everbuild Sika Multi Stick to stick 3D printed, TPU corner protectors onto my gate pillars:

Illbrück FM330 walks all over the Soudal stuff I used before finding it. Not sure mind if you could use the FM330 for say sticking EPS to concrete like the Soudal Low Expansion foam. That works a treat.

Or drop in some RCBOs to keep the lights on when the washing machine etc dies 😉

Other than it's "old"? Are they Wylex NSB** breakers? If so they're obsolete. Looks like you have half the circuits on the main switch and half on the RCD. However...if a NSB range C40 RCBO would do for your EV charger I may have one here. I have a bnib old stock CU. Think I've a B32 RCBO too...again new... Is that SWA in a regular stuffing gland?

I've long been under the clearly mistaken impression such vents had to fit over a slot in the window head. There was me considering fitting them and how I'd set a router up to achieve it accurately without taking the window out! A line of holes, much easier! Doesn't a positive ventilation unit push "heat" out through the trickle vents though thus your bills go up?

The blocks will absolutely have a damming effect in holding water back and raising the level of the water where it's held. It may also allow water to divert somewhere it didn't go before. Plus making you go "Damn!" when it leaks.

I've made jig boxes before to hold tiles:

Some people have even considered building a "liveable" man cave and disguising it as a shipping container...

I've used The Dogs B******s and Sticks Like Sh!t to stick tiles to moisture resistant plasterboard. CT1 is no good for fixing leaking heating oil or hydraulic tanks.

It's not a Wickes product. BT1 is made by C-Tec who make CT1 but it's specifically meant for bathrooms etc as it has anti bacterial / anti microbial properties.

Could this be a bust water main eroding underneath?

Kevin Cashin at C-Tec, the makers of CT1 suggested it. The tiles have been on I'm guessing 6+ years now and are going nowhere. The bath sides slope in slightly too. The end and side panels are removable for access to the pump and plumbing. There's discreet fixings covered with silicone. I didn't grout just used Forever White so everything can flex and be cut out easily.

Yes. I used it to stick ceramic tiles to marine ply.

@MJNewton used Desmopol liquid pu:

Nickel sulphide inclusion maybe?

"@Pocster's Leaking Butt Thread" has a ring to it.

Have a look at @oranjeboom's thread as to how it can go wrong, the UFH pipes can lift and poke up out of the concrete. And he got someone in!

I did my 3 x 3m bathroom on my own, mixed in a mixer and levelled with the screed rails, no problems.

How about having a go at doing just one room on your own to start with, bulk bags, hire a cement mixer etc with a few mates to help. You'll either think "that was manageable" and have the impetus to crack on or "that was bloody hard work, I'll get the professionals in". Take on board the above tips like vertical battens for level. I would think you'll need a stronger threshold board at the doors if doing just one room as in to resist the side pressure. Tbh when I do my next rooms here, one at a time I'll be screwing screed rails to the walls like last time. It worked so well for me I'd do it again.

Worth a thought too if you intend fitting a flush shower tray anywhere. Leave a big square/rectangle with the waste coming into it. Big block of eps. Later you can shunt the tray and waste around.

You could perhaps stick some eps blocks mid floor in the rooms to act as a level guide. Then dig out and fill later.

Didn't someone on here get pumped, self levelling screed/concrete? You just pump it and it flows/levels itself to the required depth.