Onoff

Tart! Print a 3D adapter!

In all seriousness, great news if it's fixed! Be very aware of any fissures or cracks that may hold water then freeze/expand during the winter undoing all your hard work. Hopefully any such gaps are well filled with the black stuff.

Said measurement being in litres?

I've had my lad 3D print plastic "shuttles" that we tie brick line to and suck through with a hoover. Similarly I've cut a square of plastic carrier bag, popped a hole through the centre and stuck the line to the plastic with a bit of duct tape.

Use a guide. Lidl sometimes stock a set of drills including a vacuum type guide like the one below that you stick to the tiles. Did all my bathroom with a set of drills like this and just drilled bits of timber to make a guide

The correct answer was "I'm easy, either! 😉"

Inside or out?

The bigger ones like you show usually need a 3 phase input which isn't a problem on commercial sites. You can get smaller ones like this for instance that run off of a 230V single phase supply. Look at the description. You would need a kiosk, temporary or otherwise with a 5OA Type D MCB in. That then feeding a suitably sized armoured cable to power the site transformer. Cable size is basically dependant on length of run.

I was offered two of those, for nothing on site after a project had finished. All quite legit, I was just that well in with the contractor. I dithered and the scrappy took them.

It was on the lowest speed of 3 options.

Dunno, this wrist breaker!

There's a joke there about a 5A plug in a 63A socket...

Enormous tools 😉

I'm core drilling and grinding at the mo off a 32A plug in trannie. Just done 1.3m through solid concrete at 102/107mm dia. Core bit was frequently sticking, amps ramping up and things getting hot. No 13A fuse popped.

Just find the two thread sizes and print a M/F adapter? Then do away with the barbed bit altogether.

https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=1%2F2"+bsp+to+hose+connector&page=1

3D print whatever you require.

Wider, overhanging copings and have a hidden gutter under that?

A stainless pipe or gutter, near horizontal in line with the top balustrade handrails?

So basically you're after suggestions where to shove it?

Run it on top of the coping and hide under some powder coated, folded sections to mimic the coping.

Paint a brick effect on or stick brick slips to the pipe?

My first house was a terrace. A communal footpath, serving all houses ran behind the houses with the back gardens beyond that. The sewer ran under this path. Everyone had their own manhole. It served 7 terraces and the pub on the end. It then ran along to the end terrace, up the side of that into the main sewer. I seem to recall some council or water board obligation whereby if it became blocked they always cleared it without charge.

Probably worth putting a few quid on the first Great White attack being down your way soon 😬

I didn't think the brown pipe solvent welded very well?