Onoff

This is my room at the stage where the Type 2 hardcore on compacted ground had been sand blinded then had 25mm lain over it: I squared of the old footings with shuttered concrete. The original tar DPC is at the top of the breeze block: I then painted liquid DPM up to the tar DPC: Then stuck 2" of EPS as perimeter insulation: The went 1m up the wall with more DPM on the two external walls before studding:

My 3x3m bathroom. I screwed "screed rails", (actually lengths of Unistrut), either side and made a tamping board. 100mm of wet concrete. Came out flatter than a flat thing.

Love the smell of proper creosote. Just bought 25 litres. It goes much further if you cut it with old oil.

Chap on the mig welding forum has just done it:

A mix of 75% old engine oil and 25% white spirit would work.

Before you rip up the glazing buy some of this and go around the glass to silicone joint. https://www.grime-x.co.uk/product/grime-x-seek-n-seal-windscreen-sealer-sealant-liquid-rubber-silicone-repair/178 Or this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Captain-Tolleys-Creeping-Crack-sealer/dp/B003T6EJ9A If only for the name!

Time might be better spent by shuttering and casting level wall plates down the long sides. Then you could use trusses or it would make doing a cut roof easier. 2x 47x220 c24 timbers screwed together as ridge beam seems overkill thickness wise.

Where's it coming from again? Under the glass, top of the brick or top of the slab?

Got a pic from above that roof light? Meanwhile throw some more money at it: https://www.maxam.co.uk/maintain-your-property/seek-n-seal/

Got a pic from above that roof light?

All joking aside, how about a wet room tanking kit? Tape the corners & between the different substrates then paint on the flexible tanking slurry.

Why not apply damp proof stuff to the inside faces?

A stone effect tank maybe?

Music to @Pocster's ears that suggestion.

Tart! Print a 3D adapter!

In all seriousness, great news if it's fixed! Be very aware of any fissures or cracks that may hold water then freeze/expand during the winter undoing all your hard work. Hopefully any such gaps are well filled with the black stuff.

Said measurement being in litres?

I've had my lad 3D print plastic "shuttles" that we tie brick line to and suck through with a hoover. Similarly I've cut a square of plastic carrier bag, popped a hole through the centre and stuck the line to the plastic with a bit of duct tape.

Use a guide. Lidl sometimes stock a set of drills including a vacuum type guide like the one below that you stick to the tiles. Did all my bathroom with a set of drills like this and just drilled bits of timber to make a guide

The correct answer was "I'm easy, either! 😉"

Inside or out?

The bigger ones like you show usually need a 3 phase input which isn't a problem on commercial sites. You can get smaller ones like this for instance that run off of a 230V single phase supply. Look at the description. You would need a kiosk, temporary or otherwise with a 5OA Type D MCB in. That then feeding a suitably sized armoured cable to power the site transformer. Cable size is basically dependant on length of run.

I was offered two of those, for nothing on site after a project had finished. All quite legit, I was just that well in with the contractor. I dithered and the scrappy took them.

It was on the lowest speed of 3 options.

Dunno, this wrist breaker!