SuperJohnG

Sounds daft maybe....but I would get an example survey copy the format and then complete it for your site....unless they say it should be carried out by a person with a specific qualification? If its a suitably qualified person then I don't see why you can't do it yourself.

This is all good info. I do have a query of anyone can help. I have a full topo and have used the topo to tell tell my architect where to posotoon house whichnis all fine and we have set FFL to suit. Positioning the house on site is fine and I will use the surveyor again to set out fornthe insulated raft. However I am a little confused as to the best way to get levels relative to the topo (I have this in ACAD 2D/3D which I can pick points off) I will want to excavate to the correct approx depth and my only on site references are 4-off hilti nails which I have then positions and correct levels for fromthe drawing. But they are all minimum 60m from the foundations ( I have a 4 acre plot nkce and mostly flatish). So I'd like to check the FFL and then set the excavation depth. But without using a total station whats the best way to do this to reference off the survey points to get a known height then use a gauge rod at the house postion to set the level? Would a dumpy be best? Or a rotating laser level? Either case. Set up dumpy or rotating laser level wherever. Find relative height to survey marker, then find relative height using gauge rod/ laser receiver at the foundation position?

Interesting thread this. I am a ways away from doing this but I was planning on placing my duct up through my slab with the MDPE pre installed in it and leave however long as required externally. You'd need to buy it at some point anyways might as well stick it through there when its easier.

@ProDave This is just a structural warranty I want though? so does this make a difference. I did think at some point hey had made a mistake and they were including for building control. But would seem they still need to inspect it? @PeterW I did this already (had seen another post yours saying to do this thanks) sennocke just sends you back to self build zone direct. it yielded the above quote. Which was a few hundred quid cheaper when compared with through Buildstore or similar. @the_r_sole I don't understand what advantage it adds if you can elaborate? I'll still have to have these inspections regardless of the fact that the LA are inspecting. I get a don't have a main contractor, but i do have supply and erect for the main structure from an LABC/NHBC/PREMIER approved supplier (SIPS ECO). Theroretically if you build it to the drgs and thats sigend of by LA building control then it should be fine. Anyone can cut corners....that fact it is a main contractor or individual does not matter. thanks for all your comments so far.

Just received this from LABC I mean really?. this has somewhat p!ssed me off. I've also had I-C-W say they cant quote as I am not using a main contractor. Protek says they wont cover SIPS. NHBC wont cover self builds anymore I believe. So I am left with Self Build zone and that's it. at £3.5k and £2.6k of this is inspection fees, the premium is only £1300 rant over...thanks for reading. ?

welcome and enjoy.

If I got a connection for £3094... I'd happily pay the parking for everyone involved. I'll guess 123.40

@the_r_sole just to clarify for others who may be following. I'm assuming your referring to a PCC (Professional consultants certificate) which is advocated by the CML (Council of mortgage lenders). They may on the face of it seem better, and simpler. However I am yet to find out the cost difference between a SW (which seems very expensive! - £3400 for me) and a PCC, where it would seem the architect provides this and does inspection, signs it off and then really you just need to add legal cover in the event you had to prove negligence and claim on their PI for a structural latent defect (Without legal cover, it would be far too costly to pursue). Other downside with PCC is that it only last 6 years, hence you'd need to remortgage or sell in that period or wait until 10 years passed to do either to avoid getting retrospective cover. Albeit - I believe others (possibly @PeterW) pointed out or purchased a restrosepctive latent defect policy which was cheap(er) I'll report back once I find out, but on the face of it. If you need to sell or remortgage within the 10 years a SW might be the most straightforward route - albeit a harder pill to swallow.

@the_r_sole Thaks and I queried this with the SPA assesor who said 'The values shown in your screenshot is an "area-weighted averaged" value, which has taken the walls / roof areas in account respectively.' @Thedreamer I mentioend that to him and he has changed it, I suggested I was aiming fro 1-1.5, so he said he woudl put it to less than 2. Then ended up doing less than 3 in the fianl report he gave me for god knows what reason. In order to get it up to an an 86B from the previous number we made the following changes: Mitsubishi Ecodan heat pump specified (was a default heat pump) Vent-Axia Kinetic High Flow MVHR unit specified (was a default MVHR) Air test score = 3 or lower (was 6 or lower) 1kW south facing solar PV panels (was none) This has ticked the box to predict as required, albeit I was hoping not to add Solar PV which is purely budget driven. We will see how it pops out once I get the Final SAP /EPC. thanks for the input

@the_r_sole thanks. I have asked him a number of times about this and costs but he has never confirmed it yet, which adds to being slightly nervous about them doing it. This is the problem with the whole structural warranty area. I'm pretty certain it should not be an issue, but that's what insurance is for.

@Carrerahill thanks. I'll have a wee look for your post and have a read. IPA works well for removing any marks and glue etc, I usually have a bottle of this lying around for various jobs and its cheap if you get it off ebay. Once I ran out of that I used my wife's nail polish remover which I then finished and had to get more...?

Sounds fantastic, however to be realistic which I am hoping is helpful. Thats just not realistic. You've maxed out on the plot...which at that point means as you know there is no money left to do anything as you're mortgaged to hilt with that. Keep looking and get something that will be achievable with your budget. I'd recommend doing a proper budget to build a house you like and then work from costs there to find a plot. Best of luck.

Looks great. Well done

Just cracking this thread open again as I am undergoing the same thing. I just done a predicated SAP rating with SAPEASY and it has come out at a 73C. I have specced a kore insulated passive raft at 0.1 U value. External walls are 0.18 U value build up which is 169mm thick SIP panel. Roof is 0.12 build up to sloping ceilings with 194mm SIP panel. MVHR ASHP 300LUVC I guess i was assuming it would be higher off the bat. Only obvious thing I notice is the MVHR efficiency is at 70% when it can be 86% and the ACH rate is 2.5 and I am aiming for 1-1.5 hopefully? They also said no overhang on windows, but I have a huge 3m canopy on the west face covering my 28m2 of glazed gable. Could that be having an effect? Any hints appreciated. Report here:

@Temp thanks. Id seem that and theoretically...my architect should just fill that put and we should be good to go. Then if you get legal cover then sorted however it just seems too easy. The whole thing is fraught with being so wooly and vague. @davejura what did you eventually do?

Just following up on this. Has anyone used an architects cert to get a mortgage. I need to choose my route soon and I'm loathed at the 3400 that companies want a for an SW these days. Hence want to get AC/PCC if possible but cant find good information to say its OK. Only thing that I need it for is remortgaging a few times over the next ten years

Thanks @LA3222 I'm Glasgow area. That figure ties in with what the local render supplier estimates for my job (10k for 200m2), for Labour and material for K rend TC15, so my price may be somewhat overpriced. However I seem to have omitted to add the actual cost of the render board itself in my budget.

@LA3222 how did you finally get on with this in the end? I'm just getting some prices back and seems I might have underestimated heavily. I'm getting quoted 70/m2 for rendering. see here for doing 195m2: I'd (likely wrongly!) used 23 for material and 26 for labour for Monocouche render on cement board. I assumed this was supply of board, mounting, and then render finish. Does this seem stupid now? @nod would you be able to help shed any light if I'm miles off. Slowly bit by but my budget seems to be getting blown to pieces.

I've had quotes ranging from 73k-130k for the same kit 285m2 house. Not including election which was circa 20k from everyone.

Phone your architect and ask him what he was doing?. Surely smaller one available to fit the space?

As mentioned above those valves will be restrictive along with your flexible tails too possibly. Otherwise don't be too hard in yourself it looks a nice clean job. Well done.

I was quoted 60-120 per metre for digging up a B road and laying a 35mm mdpe from the main. 120 was excessive but as a budget price it included permit from LA and traffic lights, relaying tar road etc. I needed to go 400m....so I'm now getting a borehole at 12-20k....? So for me...114 seems excessive..but its all relative...I'd bite your hand off for a 4k connection. Its a short length and tbh in my opinion youll not save much going elsewhere unless doing it by yourself, so if you are confident just go for it. I've basically said....it seems too much but go for it in the same post....?

This is quite interesting as I'm going to do LVT on my whole ground floor. Which will be applied directly onto the insulated concrete foundation which has UFH (of course). I wonder the difference with this..

Welcome!

As above there is a definite mismatch. As for plastic....less joins(means less chance for leaks), cheaper, easier to use. Apart from aesthetics plastic,.in my opinion is better in every way. I've done quite a number of jobs with plastic pipe and my plumber mate uses plastic everywhere except where it can be seen then uses copper for a nice finish. But thats the only reason.