joe90

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

You have to start the flooring from that side really, tucking the first ones under the end panels, yes herringbone can be tricky to get right (but looks good). https://www.factory-direct-flooring.co.uk/advice-centre/how-to-lay-herringbone-flooring?gclid=Cj0KCQiA67CrBhC1ARIsACKAa8RzHQp3M_P9FKKj4_nHJNJBlj8FpXALzR_8bYU67-ar8K0QlLNbzIAaAmNxEALw_wcB

I maybe wrong but I cant see any supports fir that pipe., if not hot water in it may make it sag over time, if you do the “ply” thing I suggested earlier this will also support the pipe 👍 2 birds with one stone and all that 🤷‍♂️

No, you are learning, as @markc says, we have seen worse. On a practical level this is a bathroom so not liable to see lots of people at the same time so loading will be minimal. If it does worry you then sister it or like I posted above purely fir peace of mind.

I go with both in one like @ProDave says, I always double over a single wire to act like two if it’s the only one under a screw.

Waste pipes are too big to be notched into joists ( normal size ), if at all holes should be in the middle of the joist, the top of a joist is in compression and the bottom in tension so both top and bottom are most important to strength.

Which is why i would use bath panels rather than tiles nowadays!!!, however i have used that protector in the past to good effect.

You need grout protector , I use this with a no 1 paint brush, tedious but very effective https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000IU40JY?tag=track-ect-uk-120267-21&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1&ascsubtag=ecSEP1swhjlpo1d511

My suggestion above will mitigate that .

Frankly any type of building is possible (as long as meets planning rules locally,) your biggest problem IMO is finding a property that you like/can afford with the space to put that/those buildings. Then you can decide what extra building fits your needs!

Why?

You have already done that with shit coloured cabinets!!!

Just around the notch ( about 300mm total length will do)

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder (or not 🙄). Looks shit me.

So it’s over the recommended depth of cut, however I would offer this solution., 1/2” ply, glued and screwed both sides of the joist. excuse the CAD (crayon assisted drawing).

Or rust! 🤷‍♂️

Pic please…..

Hooray, success!!, I managed to source a minature relay. Although the Reed was probably within spec I didn’t like the arc within it, a failure in the future I recon, this is my “test bed”, will wire it in situ tomorrow ( if it warms up a bit 🤷‍♂️)

Oh yes, even wiring in a classic car 😱( ask me how I know!). might this fit to join the pipe https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-outlet-hose-connector-17mm/37103

NO, @crispy_wafer has a pumice liner, yours must be just brickwork. I recently lined a neighbours brick chimney and installed a bird proof top and his woodburner is miles better (and safer). It’s not that hard to do (if you don’t mind heights 🤷‍♂️). just one example pulled from the internet https://flexibleflueliners.com/product/125mm-316-316-flexible-flue-liner/?attribute_length=6+metres

https://www.temu.com/uk/kuiper/n9.html?subj=googleshopping-landingpag i got a mouse into my wall cavity when installing a socket, worked its way right into the loft where the above item put paid to it.

Perhaps a plank of wood on the floor of the gap with ropes so it can be lifted and cleared of any crap that falls when the wall is being built. The wall will be built “overhand” so pointing as they go should be possible IMO.

Yes they are a nightmare (usually fitted to sink prior to installation, try this, I am sure you can make a joiner with one of these bits or similar https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186143700881?hash=item2b57077791:g:AkMAAOSwDblik

Ok not in your position (retired) but my place has a wood shop (posh shed) 4m x 6m, single garage (no room for double), potting shed 3 x 2m and garden shed 2 x 4m, all within PD and no BR.

+1, I didn’t use basalt ties on my passive esk build as I worked out the losses were minimal.