joe90

Nails perform at their best when resisting shear force (force pulling sideways) while screws are designed to resist withdrawal force (force pulling outwards). I have heard that but what you have done is fine in my opinion along with glue.

No as I had no CIL (replacement dwelling).

During my build the west gable wall blew over twice (the mortar was still green) after the first time my brikie propped it with my tower scaffold and that didn’t work so the second time he fashioned timber trusses to support it overnight.after the build was finished I did have a roof rattle that I thought was a loose slate but turned out to be a vibrating plastic downpipe so extra brackets fitted.

@yessir is you latest application acceptable to you? The reason I ask is I was told by the planners only my application no 4 was acceptable to them (2 bed only and downstairs bathroom, which I did not want) and accepted it as the footprint was the same as my original application and enabled the building to be started, i then appealed my original application and won so you can appeal a previous application and if you win build what you originally wanted.

Oh yes .

No, you will appeal the planners decision to refuse. What are the purple and red dotted lines? (Previous application?).

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-manchester-67831843 Worth a few brackets 🤷‍♂️

My worry would be it sliding off the ground screws rather than lifting, I am a bit OCD and tend to over engineer things but for the sake of a few brackets it’s piece of mind. @idris is your building going to be that heavy/big ? I looked into ground screws for a garden room on a 2ft slope so the screws would be longer and make up the height difference and I could screw up into the floor timbers.

Yes I noticed that, I would have fixed brackets from the timbers to the part of the top of the screw pile that was showing.

Oh yes, we are a friendly and knowledgable bunch 👍. I believe that’s got to be taken into account and worth pointing out. With mine I got a “street scene” drawn up including my neighbours house etc to show my application in context so worth doing. IMO going to appeal is easier than applying for planning permission, I did my own and the department were more helpful than the planners department 🤷‍♂️Post you plans etc here (with personal details covered) and you will get loads of ideas and real life examples of what can be achieved.

Welcome, yes planners are in a world of their own I have fought them on more than one occasion but don’t be despondent. Regarding neighbours comments they are only relevant if they have a valid planning objection, not “I don’t like it “, for example on my last build my neighbour objected to a new entrance as “our headlights would shine in their windows “ but when I went to appeal it was pointed out their house was 100+ yards away so their objection was not valid. IMO it’s not about being in tune with the local area but fitting in with the local planning framework and policies. With my appeal it was determined that even the planners were not abiding by their own policies and I won hands down 👍. Lots of advice here regarding planning “problems”, would be good to see the objections raised and your neighbours comments.

Lots of info here. https://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove_building_regulations.html

+1, even our Jeremy Harris dumped his complicated control system for a simple room stat.

I agree and unless you have anything of sentimental value good insurance is my advise.

I had to look into this with my new entrance and I established that green verges were historically pavements for people and horses and so part of the highway.

I so disagree with that, yes it may not be very accurate but it’s a guide. My current place was worked on a number of years ago and BC involved so I know it’s relatively cheap to run but was sold as a 100 year old cottage Yes I did and would not have bought it had the fairly recent work not been done.

Yes, just ask the question here (start a new thread or search for or search for previous threads about the best way to do it and lots of practical advise will be forthcoming. All this work starts with you knowing your budget.

As you say budget is the key thing here (unlike grand designs mostly)and you need to max that out in insulation, saying that the first inch of insulation gives the biggest payback (diminishing returns principle) so perhaps IWI linked to overfloor insulation and a floating floor over would be a good start 🤷‍♂️.

Don’t I know it, when my build was valued for the divorce NO account of its build quality and insulation was taken into account 🤯

I tend to agree (but planners are on a different planet!!), I would forward your answer to highways explaining that planning are not responding, they may show some light on it for you.

Same as a cooker switch 👍

But the lower one would not need a 10mm cable surely?

NO ITS NOT, is he a proper electrician??

But many people cannot afford to do that! No VAT on any materials to insulate and if people can reduce their heating load that’s got to be a step in the right direction.

Planning definition of a veranda. A veranda - usually defined as a gallery, platform, or balcony, usually roofed and often partly enclosed, extending along the outside of a building at ground level. if it has no floor, not partly enclosed then how can it be described as a veranda, but as @kandgmitchell says above if it had walls it would be ok?