joe90

I agree, I did similar in my build but rotated a bit to be higher within the main soil pipe (might be difficult to get a hole cutter in there if the floor is fixed!).yes moving it downstream a little may help in that water/solids are not washing up the wall of the soil pipe as much as nearer the bend.

That’s what I did. (with a brick and block construction).

Not recently. But from other people’s comments they don’t appear to be generally! Other suppliers (I have used various suppliers in the past and found Octopus the best)

Yes a good start, rather than installing the insulation after building the stud work I was on a build once where the insulation was installed against the first stud then the second stud was installed tight against the insulation etc etc. what do you plan for the floor, roof and doorway?

I would argue they are one of the best out there, there has got to be a reason they didn’t go bust like so many others 🤷‍♂️

I quite agree, I have had faultless service from them, they answer the phone, speak English and nothing is too much trouble. They also source sustainable energy.

Change to Octopus (I will get you £50 off your first bill if I refer you 👍)

I too am on variable and don’t believe in an energy company keeping my money by overcharging during the summer. I pay for what I use every month.

Yup, I used off cuts of flooring in that way, saves waste and money 👍

Having dealt with old pipework bunged up with crud in the past I would worry about trying to pump stuff out of a shower tray.

However caulk can remain flexible and wood (skirting etc) shrinks so cracking would still be a potential problem with epoxy 🤷‍♂️. CT1 has such a good reputation and £4 instead of £1 is not going to break the bank in the scheme of things.

Yes all caulk should be paintable I used https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-decorators-caulk-white-310ml/57568

Yup, done that got the T shirt.

On a previous house I was told dormers I was building on the rear of the house, to build a loft conversion, reqd planning, I established dormers on the side or rear of a property did not require planning (I had applied for building regs.) https://ecab.planningportal.co.uk/uploads/miniguides/lofts/Lofts.pdf

Gosh I always thought building above a existing ridge line required planning permission 🤔 every day is a school day (even for old farts like me 🤣)

Never seen those hydraulics across before but I have used the plasterboard lifters and they are a great bit of kit.

When I built my build I used Spanish slate and looks very similar to welsh slate and far cheaper.

The reason for using a pillar drill is to have a stop at the right depth, I.e. not go through the door, those instructions are confusing to say the least.

I have found the only way to drill these holes properly was with a pillar drill.

I had one of those, total sh1te, replaced it with a “real” switch. I agree but without testing where the wires go or knowing I could only guess. Anyway what could possibly go wrong? 🤯 get yourself a multimeter.

I would guess that one cable is incoming (power supply) and the other feeds the actual light 🤷‍♂️, therefore one live into common and the other into either l1 or l2 (does not matter) and the two neutrals connected together in a separate cable connector.

I agree but not to the extent of diminishing what can be built on the site.

I would simply ask them for the calcs as they must supply something that is “fit for purpose”. When I bought my stair kit I never asked about calcs and presumed (perhaps naively) they would have done that, however building control did not ask for them.

Why not run the handrail over the intermediate post? (Can you get it in one length ?)

Were you not included in that conversation? As you are the customer you should have been and if the quote increased you would have to be informed surely. I would ask your SE why he changed his mind as you only accepted the quote for a blockwork basement.