joe90

I have a 200mm cavity with dritherm 32, 250mm underfloor polyurethane foam, 400mm dritherm in the warm roof. Quite toasty.

I am a bit late to this thread but when I designed our house I used I beam rafters to give me depth for insulation (warm roof) which meant no trusses or internal beams, I have a large loft which contains the MVHR, it’s boarded out, foldaway loft ladder and so I have ample space for all that crap like Christmas decorations, suitcases and wife’s out of season clothes. I would not be without it as a usable storage place.

Some people just take the piss if your too good, I believe in being helpful but you can go too far !!! @pocster sell them the party wall agreement ?????.

Well I have an en suite but it’s bigger than the “family bathroom”. Our en suite has a large shower, toilet, basin and a large bath. The family bathroom has only toilet, basin and shower. Downstairs cloakroom also has toilet and basin.

Wow, ten years is good, hope mine lasts that long, can’t remember what pump I have but secoh sound familiar.

good trades people never are.

I also considered a reed bed but I am on clay like you. I also read about the dangers of them and found firms no longer installing them because of the hazards. I installed a STP (vortex) and it’s very good, yes it uses a little electricity but you could always run it from solar panels to be greener I guess.

Glad you found a good tradesman, they are out there but difficult to find some times. My plasterer was brilliant and I still recomend him to people that ask (Bristol area) and he never has to advertise for work.

I have that Titan SDS machine and fir a cheap one it’s been brilliant, yes it eats brushes but you get spares with it. I also have a Titan 9” angle grinder and ditto, value fir money in my opinion.

I just messaged the seller of the unit from Ebay to find its model number (in case anyone is interested) and this is their reply. Hi, The model number is : ESDAW-12.5-1PH 1499 pounds including delivery and VAT would be our best price. Bods will be along in a mo to explain its pro,s and cons link.... http://www.dreamheatpumps.co.uk/12.5kw_heat_pump_HOME.html

So I guess it has an immersion built in to top up water temps?

Just had a look at that newhome unit I linked to earlier (now that the welsh wizard said what he did above) and although I don’t know the name, it has a Toshiba compressor, soft start, digital lcd controller, cop 4.6 so sounds ok. Others (that know what their talking about) will be along shortly to confirm/deny ? MAIN FEATURES Heat Output : 12.5kw Heating Power Input : 3kw Voltage/Phase/Frequency : 220-240V/1PH/50HZ Toshiba Rotary Compressor Stainless Steel Heat Exchanger Digital LCD Controller Built-In Timer Soft Start Technology Refrigerant Type : R410A Coefficient of Performance (COP) : 4.6 Water Flow Rate : 1.7 m3/h Maximum Outlet Water Temperature: 60 °C Hot Water Supply : 268 L/H Sound Level : 52 dB(A) Water Connections : 3/4 inch

I told you someone ( @A_L ) who knows what they are doing would be along ?

I was advised to use a buffer tank to stop the ASHP from short cycling (on off on off on off). Whereas others here have found running the UFH direct not a problem but you will need a bit more antifreeze/inhibitor. @ProDave and i (and probably others) found that 48’ is hot enough to wash dishes, it’s painful to hold your hand under that temp water so hot enough for bathing, showers etc, so we have larger tanks as we don’t blend much. You can top the temps up with solar or immersions if you have a smaller tank and need to blend but will be difficult to match immersions to ASHP unless the ASHP is timed otherwise once the tank temp is below your 48’ the immersion will kick in and you need the ASHP do get it up to 48’ and immersions or solar to whatever temp you require. Also a DHW tank at higher temps will have higher losses.

I also heat to 48’, with a buffer tank (not sure I would have a buffer again tho) fir the UFH Which is blended down by the UFH manifold to 25’. Also 48’ to the DHW tank (300litre like @ProDave) Which is more than adequate. Just remembered we have guests and I have not switched to the lower stat to give me more hot water, but we have not run out yet!.

you may be right but at £850 it was worth a try. I based my (finger in the air) assessment on what @Jeremy Harris did. I don’t have a degree in anything but good “common sense” (oops wrong thread ?)

No idea about these but first hit on Ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-HOME-AIR-SOURCE-AIR-TO-WATER-HEAT-PUMP-HEATER-12-5KW-RRP-2099/353168398563?hash=item523a7a18e3:g:JF8AAMXQU6tQ9u81 technical bods here will tell you if it’s a “good un”. 12.5 kW!!!!!!!

Well I have a 5KW ASHP no calcs, passive esk build, my house is bigger than yours my DHW tank is also bigger and it copes just fine. I found my ASHP on Ebay dead cheap, still new so took it as a punt and it paid off. Others will be along shortly (who know what their doing) and talk figures ?.

Well I based my room widths on 4M (less carpet waste ?).

yes, I have not bothered with my system either.

but not the whole tank gets heated unless the stat is at the very bottom. It’s only during summer months you can consider it a loss, during heating months it helps with the heating. On my 350 litre tank I have two stats, lower and higher, I switch stats depending on whether it’s just the two of us or having visitors .

But less losses than a small tank at higher temps!!! My losses are minimal, well insulated in an insulated airing cupboard.

@ianfish, can you include neighbours house/S also rear view.

Best post you’re ideas here (with drawings, crayon will do) for feedback, lots of knowledgeable people here!

I certainly would not use 32mm, 50mm minimum but 110mm is better.