joe90
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Posts
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Everything posted by joe90
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I installed my adapter afterwards but was a bit of a pig to fit . Not sure which diag above you used, mine is like the top one, concrete bottom block has male protrusion and stainless adapter glued up to it. Problem is our stove did not allow the metal flue to go down into the stove to be pulled back up to the adapter so had to slide the stove in with pipe at an angle till it was vertical (bad description!!,,) if your metal stove pipe goes inside the adapter then you won’t have this problem.
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I don’t see how they can “own” the pipe if it’s on your land with no contract/easement/wayleave or it’s going to cost them £2k to have their pipe on your land!!!!
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I fail to see why it would cost £2k, it’s existing on your land so any rights that exist are retained, if in a slightly different location. This sounds like a money making racket. Surely if the existing “rights “ include a map just get it altered that should not cost £2k???.
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GRP (God-awful Rubbish Period)
joe90 commented on canalsiderenovation's blog entry in Canalside Bungalow Renovation
Good on the builder fir fessing up, I think his offer is a good one and won’t delay your programme. Must be a great weight off your mind ? -
Nah, just do it, put in a new pipe and accidentally break the old one, apologise and get it “repaired” quickly ?♂️.
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What about this place. https://www.sad.co.uk
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And me, I got a plumber neighbour to help me do mine.
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Why quote a few of us didn’t bother with RHI.
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The Great Thermal Mass Myth....... read this thread, bit of an in joke on this forum (how do you post a thread, can’t find it on my iPad)!
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Can be either, see. http://www.radicalheatingsolutions.co.uk/underfloor-heating/joisted-floor/biscuit-mix/ As an example. They talk about extra thermal mass (incoming....?...) this will add to sound absorbency . Your floor must be designed to take the extra weight tho!.
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this is why I like to use screws with a plain shank (no thread in the floorboard) they do pull the wood together but are difficult to source.
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@ZacP are you having UFH upstairs? You could do like @ProDave and put pipes in a biscuit mix which would deaden a lot of sound !
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fair comment about sound but is it worth the cost/hassle. Our builder specced joists at 600mm but installed at 400 to avoid bounce (which we have none) as I said above I wish I had double boarded and/or used resilient bars. Also attention to detail around the floor/ceiling can make a difference. Also just read somewhere about sound block flooring (additional boards with foam/rubber membrane fitted to floor to block sound).
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Why did you want beam and block first floor?. I went with I joists (osb webs) quite easy to drill even for MVHR pipes, pozi joists even easier. BUT the only thing I would change with my build is to double board ceilings and resilient bars as the sound transference between floors is greater that I expected even with sound insulation fitted.
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I probably would go with oak as well (But with a bull nose, and I do have a router!!!) but fir ease using ply etc and carpeting would make it easier fir zoot.
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yes, does not look right with just a square edge (IMO). I would make it 20mm. Build those two then we will talk you through the bottom step.
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GRP (God-awful Rubbish Period)
joe90 commented on canalsiderenovation's blog entry in Canalside Bungalow Renovation
YES, looking at those photo,s there is no fall or not consistent. Are the ceilings up inside? If not you should see the firings (long wedges to create a fall. Time to call the builders and have this out with him. -
Might be best to get a third party with you when he comes!
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GRP (God-awful Rubbish Period)
joe90 commented on canalsiderenovation's blog entry in Canalside Bungalow Renovation
I must agree that I favour a slope of some sort if only minimal. If done properly GRP must be very waterproof as there are millions of boats made from it and some very old ones. This has not been done well!! -
GRP (God-awful Rubbish Period)
joe90 commented on canalsiderenovation's blog entry in Canalside Bungalow Renovation
The pooling is not a problem but the “delaminating” from the trim is wrong, make sure you photograph every area where this has occurred. @SteamyTea will be along in a moment to suggest it’s remedy (that the roofer should do). Don’t know if it’s luck or judgement (hopefully the latter) I have never had that happen on a roof I have done. -
this would work fir your top step , with middle step use 18mm flooring and round it over and pack beneath to suite. Yes you can stick carpet to concrete but would you be satisfied with that? (I would not!).
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Just got this from above company.... several of our tests will test it as part of a larger array of parameters. Examples for this are the Water Analysis Plus as well as the Premium Water Test. ?
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No it’s just “normal “ for stairs, looks a lot better IMO. whatever takes your fancy. Unless your going to re carpet that top room in which case extend the new carpet down the stairs. Are you going to carpet the lower room? In this case extend that carpet up the stairs. Or you could just paint it until one of them get carpeted! Whatever you do the top step needs to be flush with the wood floor in that top room,
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When I worked fir a major comms company I was pissed off with all the “acronyms” being used, however the one I liked and continue to use is “ work smarter not harder”.
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We have bottled gas fir hob (I wanted induction but was overruled!), bottles must be external AFAIK, yellow plastic pipe laid externally, copper through the wall to stop plate fir flexible gas pipe to hob (pull out cooker ) or copper all the way to hob.
