joe90
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Posts
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Everything posted by joe90
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MVHR is Largely Bogus
joe90 replied to DavidHughes's topic in Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery (MVHR)
Only in hot summer weather (when er indoors has all the windows open). -
Best construction method to avoid mould growth
joe90 replied to goatcarrot's topic in General Construction Issues
Try this. http://tonyshouse.readinguk.org -
In that case it’s not a problem, as I said, foundations sat in water can be quite normal and any DPC will stop wicking up into the building. You could always do like I did and run the drainage pipe into you’re drains, that’s where the rain from the roof goes!!!
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It depends if the building itself, not just the foundations is below the water table. Our water table is high and when the trench was backfilled after the foundations were poured and brickwork started it was with perforated pipe in 50mm drainage stone and drained to a nearby ditch (French drain), if you’re build is below the water table it’s a whole new ballgame, tanking etc.
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Foundations sat in water is not a problem (I have a high water table), with our foundations I had to dig a small “sump” next to the foundations to enable a small pump to drain the water before the concrete was poured.
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I could not help noticing that our heating has not come on fir the last few days, currently 8’ outside and house still 21’, only heated by incidentals and retained heat. ( a storm is brewing so I might light the woodburner for that “caveman” feel after I walk the dog in the rain ?).
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Just put wheels on it, Shepard’s hut!!!,
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Nah, it won’t be that tidy (or soon).
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I use Ebay a lot and always pay with PayPal but it’s delivered. cash is king as they say, but not up front, I like cash on delivery (and inspection)
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Wot @PeterW said ?
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Yes but many members came from a previous forum that folded suddenly!
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Looking good mate, personally I hate doors that rattle, so if there is a little warp that means the door is tight when it’s shut that is a good thing, plus fir an old cottage things are allowed to be a little wonky!!! (Yes lost heads).
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I do think the other switch should have a label (if done by a professional ?♂️).
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Trust me it won’t work unless you recess the hinge on the side panel to match the door thickness (ask me how I know ?) you only need to recess to get the hinge plate in the side panel. you could not recess as long as you don’t mind 9mm of the side panel showing, which might give you a bit more grace regarding hitting your ceiling.
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Nice but lacks the adjustment a “kitchen” hinge gives but might be easier to fit ?
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Yes, but better to route leaving 15/16mm thickness which is what they are designed for and a bit more fir screws to hold onto.
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Yes, but bouncing ideas with others is always a good idea.
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Yup, both would work.
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@Redoctober, personal choice but quite a few of us don’t believe in/operate a legionella cycle. Why not try turning off the immersion and see what happens, mine are only used fir backup.
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Yes but as I said they only work with min 15mm side panel and equal door thickness ?
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@Russdl, not sure what you can do, with double side panels and single door panel you need a “swinging” hinge, like used fir kitchen cabinets, but as explained above I know of none that do this and my other suggestion won’t fit your loft dimensions. I hope someone can come up with a solution for you. Trying to think “outside the box” you could fit as below and still use hinge idea above.
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No, one will do.
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That’s difficult, initially I thought “kitchen” hinges but they only fit with one piece of side panel, you have two (doubled). Plus they are recessed into the mdf and that is usually min 15mm. Can you not do as below?
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Glad your getting somewhere, they are lockshield valves but personally I would want TRV,s on one end to control max temp per room.
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Best construction method to avoid mould growth
joe90 replied to goatcarrot's topic in General Construction Issues
Welcome, I thinK MVHR is a must for you with your condition, blown cellulose is a pretty non toxic material (AFAIK). And “plastic” insulation is a petrochemical product. I built in brick and block with rockwall batts as insulation (200mm) . Good on you fir doing what you can but you might find it is worth paying a block layer as they will be faster and more accurate (sorry) than you, you will be busy enough being his labourer. I paid a main contractor for all concrete, brick, block, plastering, roof stuff but was busy full time along side them doing everything else.
