joe90

Or remove the lathe and plaster, replace any defective timbers, batten out the existing studs to the desired depth then fill with insulation .

are these a problem for roots?, I have heard of clay drains being a problem because the roots can enter the joints but cable and water pipes would think ok!!! ?

If your hedge is not growing quickly then put a watering hose along its base, this will speed things up quite a bit.

And some of the timber if you don’t use trusses.

Not sure where I heard it but someone stated that if all cars went to electric and gas was ruled out the National Grid would not cope and would have to be massively upgraded.

Yup 5KW ASHP, I do have a woodburner as well but mostly for very cold weather (cave man effect?).

As your paying to have this done if your not satisfied (not fit for purpose) ask the contractor what he proposes ?

Also carpets can keep out the draughts (underfloor space should be ventilated) and unless tongue and groove boards (which they may be) small gaps between boards. I doubt Victorians would use 16mm boards so they are probably newer tongue and groove which means as they support one another 16mm might be stronger than non t@g boards.

Well done looks great, you must be well pleased with yourselves (boat looks good too) ultimate garden ornament.

Trusses worked out cheaper for me ?.

Well that sounds similar to the one I built, the only difference is I used roof trusses so no car lift ?. If you used a ridge beam you would have room for it. Trench founds, block with pillar construction, within PD rules, with the overhang of the roof I was able to keep it to 2.5m but the door clears 2.5m. I was worried about condensation from the metal roof and asked about fleece lined panels but they only really work in barn type construction (lots of air flow. Instead I simply used roofing felt under the metal roof and no condensation issues. It’s draughty enough to stop any mould, but cold in the winter (thermal longjohns ?).

It’s for water or condensation in the frame, not cill. The holes are in the bottom of the frame and any water runs out of that gap between frame and stub cill. That’s why you should not fill that outside gap between stub cill and frame.

@zoothorn, I think it will be more important to have the frame into the render equally both sides, if not it will look odd from the outside. You can build up the plaster as your hacking it off anyway. Is the window frame width equal from the outside?.

I can’t wait for a sewerage treatment plant that produces gas to heat the home or run the car ?

@zoothorn make sure you give them accurate measurements INCLUDING THE CILL, and make that very apparent on your order. Have come across some firms that have got this wrong.

So you should get it finished quicker then ?‍♂️ Just be grateful it’s not cold and wet (it will be soon).

Your pic shows your existing window has a wooden cill on top of a concrete one (external) so you would buy a UPVC window and cill that would sit on top of the concrete one (which will stay in place), the cill comes separately and you need to fix (screw) these together but you need to only use silicone on the back edge of the window base. (I will draw you a diagram when your ready to instal it. Does that Make sense?

yes, UPVC frames are hollow and in case any rain/water/condensation enters that void they have drain holes in the bottom. That is why when you stick the UPVC cill you must only put silicone on the inside edge otherwise you trap the water in there. Will try to find a pic. here you go…..https://www.everest.co.uk/doors/how-to-stop-water-coming-in-through-my-door/

Can I join the queue? ?‍♂️

I think patching render is more difficult to disguise that patching plaster so I would see if you can get it out from the inside, how much plaster on the inside?, chisel a bit out and see the depth!!! The new window need not be as deep as the existing one, 1/2” is more than enough as long as the render covers it, packers and expanding foam then re plaster the inside reveal.? edit, just read that I said this before!!!,! It either got to go in from the outside or inside and as said personally I find it easier to patch plaster than render and less likely to leak……..

@SteamyTea, you Nick that from your kitchen at work ?, I must admit my south facing conservatory got to 39’ today with all windows and doors open (but no wind) , kept the bifolds to the house shut and curtains closed. For next year when I have more plants I bought a roll of scaffolding green netting to hang in the roof to diffuse the rays a little during the hottest time (to stop plants from burning).

I have used the Screwfix ones and these In the past….. https://bsfixings.uk/bluebird-screw-ties-galvanised-stainless-steel/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6NmHBhD2ARIsAI3hrM2eMmEy96PgtEkUVvQCwRTYSQ0D466QmNf9xBWLoYZKMUWbKReL7PAaAibNEALw_wcB

If you did make up your own wheels and plate to fit in the pocket how would you fix it with zero space to get your fingers/drill/screws (unless to CT1,d it)?

Why has that base plate got funny stick out bits at the ends. Cut em off!!!, cut the threshold strip so it sits flat on the tiles, drill and countersink and use two stainless screws into the floor/tiles. ?