joe90

That may make them sit up and take notice ?‍♂️Good for you.

Not that I know a great deal about render, especially this newfangled stuff, if the base coat has turned to powder and is dry it must be a material failure. Can you not get an expert to inspect and give you a conclusion of fault that you can go to the supplier with to make your case?.

Yes, here is a (bad) drawing if what you will have. Your existing concrete cill should have a small upstand at the back when you remove the timber window. This will allow any moisture that gets into the window frame to drip out and run down your concrete cill. Just make sure to put sone silicone on the concrete cill only at the back so as not to block this weep hole

My wood stove flue is vertical from the stove (but into masonry chimney with insulated liner) and we have no condensate issues!

The bath panel should be removable, if not an access panel should be left.

it may be easier to move the hinges slightly and door lock/catch.

28mm copper!, that will be expensive, I used copper from ASHP to pump, tank etc then I ran the rest mainly in plastic 22mm (but I only have one manifold and 5 loops).

I made that assumption, citing running one in the daytime (warmer air) against running at nighttime (E7) but was told it makes very little difference. ?‍♂️

+1 ?

I built my own half landing, used 6x2 bolted to the walls, and joist hangers, oak boards to match the stairs i mounted the manifold on a board (old piece of laminate on ply) because I Mounted it all before the plastering was done, plastering then up to the thickness of the board.

I used Wunda stuff and I must have missed that!!,! Mine is lower than that and no problem connecting pipes. My half landing is 1100mm, top of manifold 800mm and plenty of space.

why?

I would be tempted to knock the beading off this corner and re set it correctly square and fill the majority with bonding and get a new skim put on. But @nod will be along shortly to tell you the correct way to do this ?

My UFH insulation is 200mm ?

Sat on brick cills with Stainless angle brackets and screws , put foam tape between brick and frame, squished to provide seal, expanding foam around (more airtightness). Very pleased with the results.

Where it meets the window I machined an angled timber fillet, screwed to the window frame and plasterboard screwed to that! Expanding foam around this area to mitigate any cold bridge.

Yes it should I guess, my cavity closer does not extend onto the inner blocks.

It could be the AAV in the loft is “stuck” so repairing or changing would be good . As @PeterW says a trap on the basin with a built in AAV would be good. As an aside, my Bath trap is a low level one (minimum air gap) and the Bath used rarely, the water tends to evaporate in summer so I need to top it up some times.

What detail are you talking about? Despite being a retired small time builder I learnt soo much from members here that allowed me to design and instal my own so not rocket science. I really enjoyed the learning curve as well, ask away sunshine!

£12k ?. Dead simple, bit of metal tube , fine wires and a metal ceiling rose. Coat of Matt or semi Matt black paint. Only difficult piece is finding globes that you want for each end. I think the expensive bit like @ProDave says is the Rotating bit (that you don’t want anyway).

@MortarThePoint yes!

I ran my wall DPC down and tucked it under the floor DPC (so wall damp In the lowest block does not rot the door frame).

Sorry missed that ?‍♂️ But, if you both want the fence then you will have to reach a compromise.

this tells me that the position of the door stops is not the problem but the door to frame width (gap between frame and door), @steveoelliott can you confirm?

Sounds like a compromise will be fairly easy, walk the boundary with him with a set of sticks putting them in where you agree the fence line should exist (hope it works out ok) https://www.deerbusters.com/blog/how-high-does-a-deer-fence-need-to-be/ ?