joe90

I bought mine from Wunda and got good service/advice.

No such thing as a daft question, being daft is not asking! So you are a realist!. we are a nosy bunch but very interested so bring it on.

I didn’t use cavity closers but then again I have angled reveals, I just used expanding foam around the window wall junction then glued plasterboard to inner blockwork and screwed it to timber fixed to windows. 200mm cavity filled with rockwall batts.

Welcome to THE build forum. Lots of pictures and drawings reqd (we are a nosy bunch). Don’t forget there is no such thing as a stupid question, stupid is not asking ?‍♂️

mine were made locally by the same company that made the windows, in Oak, with compression seals and during the air test they did not leak at all and no reason they should start to leak because of the compression seals same as the windows. I think bifolds get a bad rap because some use brush seals which (IMO) are rubbish.

Wow, really good, bet you guys are well chuffed ?.

If the water is running off the surface rather than bubbling up from beneath then your water table is low. From my reading on this having installed my own STP was that holing the tank is only required if the water table is high. I was just going to say similar to @TonyT above, chain or cable over the unit fixed to the concrete would suffice IMO.

+1 for raft with thicker ring beam and steel mesh fir piece of mind. Regarding heating / insulation if it’s a gym then why? He will (should) be producing his own heat!, if a garden room then that’s different. A decent fan heater would warm that up fairly quickly.

since when does screws or nails “damage” bricks, being pedantic was it nails or screws? Your neighbour is a tosser. Yes you/contractor should have consulted them on fixing to the wall!.

+1, I find wood fencing shrinks more than expands, yes 13mm (1/2 inch in old money ) looks better and any variation less obvious ?.

Wood always moves (unfortunately) some more than others ?‍♂️

Let him decide.

still jealous !

+1, offer to replace the bricks/mend and nothing else. Tell him he can sue you if he declines.

correct ?

If I remember correctly the loops should not be too short as they will be too short to loose their heat to surrounding flooring. I think optimum length is 100m (please correct me if I am wrong!.

Yes, I remember that grand designs build, A right nightmare IMO it would have been better to take the old building down, build under it then carefully re construct it on top, LOADS cheaper. (Yes what cars do you have????) it it grade 1 or 2 listed.

Depends on what you use, When I briefly thought about a cover fir mine, I planned slightly down sloped louvres (30’ to keep the weather out) but big gaps. Nothing at the back (all noise comes out the front due to the fan pushing the air out the front). If the air is not very restricted I guess the airflow (this efficiency) would be ok.?

@Bobby Dazzler, have you dug that hole yet?, can’t move on till you do! If you’re bothered about grief then pay some thick skinned (large) guys to do it for you (but warn them about stroppy neighbours). Ffs it’s your land ??.

not sure I would agree with that. I have a warm loft, wanted a large storage area with MVHR in it as well. The roof is built with 400mm I beams, filled with rockwall and inside glue bonded OSB sheeting. The air test found virtually no air leaks from the loft hatch (indicating loft was well sealed.). It’s all about the detail, I am a fussy bugger and bubble glued and foamed every join. if you don’t want to go to that trouble you could always create a large box over the loft hatch, MVHR, and insulate and seal that with the insulation at bedroom ceiling height.

I didn’t like the idea of multiple pipes through doorways so (with the consensus on here) ran some pipes under walls (with a pipe sleeve of overflow pipe). This reduced pipe bunching and also reduced loop length a little.

My builder plastered up to the wooden frames, I told him to use a stop bead so I could caulk that (and stay flexible) but he convinced me it was not necessary. Well I was right, wooden windows shrank a little and the air test showed some leaks. My builder was very good but on this subject I was right. The cracking also pulled the edge of the plasterboard apart a little, even Jeremy Harris suffered the same.

My take on this is if the soakers are under the slates (as I prefer not to see too much lead) then code 3 is fine. If the lead is open to being “picked up by the wind” then I would use code 4.

As someone with an ASHP that does not find noise an issue why not just instal it then decide if soundproofing is required, a fairly solid timber enclosure with sound absorbing foam inside will (IMO) make a big difference. I used this kind of foam on the inside of my sewerage treatment plant and it made a big difference.

glad you appear to be getting somewhere, must be very frustrating but good on you for persuing with it ?