joe90

I would not call myself a pro but done a lot of roofing/insulation jobs in the past Insulation roll will compress a lot. Is the roof on? If not, roll the insulation over the wall plate to where it needs to go, push the pir down on it till achieving the gap above required and fit you battens to stop it rising, your first diagram shows three layers, first between joists (100mm?) then two layers of 150mm?, roll this second layer over and down to the cavity, fit PIR and battens to maintain gap then roll top layer up to the PIR ?

I would fit the thickest PIR you can as the insulation total thickness there is below optimal. Also the thicker it is the less it will bow.

Why, I use yours ???. I just look at the lecky bill.

Well I have fitted one on the advise of our plumber guru but some here have not. The advantage of a buffer is being able to have an immersion in case of ASHP failure or service to keep the UFH working, less inhibitor required, also said it can stop the ASHP from short cycling. Also my ASHP only heats water to one temp (mine set to 48’) so with a buffer I can differentiate as this may cause short cycling.

Anything smaller will be difficult to negotiate. Why is it too big?. They tend to go inline with ceiling joists, cutting one is usual. (As long as you support it properly).

Because of a very high water table where I have built I put a French drain 250mm below floor level around the house and piped it into a ditch nearby, works very well and have had no further damp issues within the soil. It might also be worth checking the rainwater drains run properly away from the house (no soakaway next to the walls).

I just don’t like aerated blocks, medium solid for me every time, I like solid fixings into a solid wall.

I installed one of these (or very similar), works well. https://www.diy.com/departments/3-section-12-tread-26mm-insulated-hatch-folding-loft-ladder-kit/3663602522492_BQ.prd

Actually I find neighbours objections are not relavant (I don’t like it!), if your architect is any good he will have a feel for what is acceptable for your area so it’s positive so far but I bet the planners have not even looked at it yet and may even ask to extend the period but fingers crossed eh. Even if the planners find fault it’s not the end, I fought 4 planning applications and won hands down at appeal ?

Welcome, we love new projects so post away and we like drawings or photo,s.?

the plate is for screwing to whatever in on the floor (paving slab etc), the metal tube is for burying in concrete. I always find the hole fills with crud so use a plastic sleeve surrounded by cement but much deeper than needed, it will fill up with “stuff” but you can use a long drill to remove it once in a while.

Or drill a hole in the pin and put a nut and bolt through (really tight).

We don’t have a Belfast sink but similar material and I always use a plastic bowl. It also uses less water ?‍♂️, my parents always had a plastic grid mat in their sink.

when I went to appeal it specified that if rules were not abided with by the council you can claim costs, but as you say it can be subjective with some subjects. Our council were told they were not abiding by their own policies.

Not sure it’s usual but (at the advise of the heating guru on this site), I drilled 25mm holes in the blockwork walls level with the top of the insulation before it was laid, after laying the insulation pushed a length of overflow pipe about 300mm long through each hole and threaded the UFH pipe through that, saved congestion of pipes through doorways and gave more direct routes for some pipes.

Ditto,

I bought a genny for my site but was lucky that it was connected to the grid “in time”. My plan was gas heating/water as @ProDave says above and charging a large caravan 12volt battery by genny for a while then 12volt lights etc the rest of the time. Most towable caravans have a 12volt cct fir when on a non power site.

I prefer 1.5m, less waste.

Sorry missed this, yes as per Peter said, Chuck it in, add a bit of water afterwards and stir it in if necessary .

Life’s a gamble, I would T off the seller, instal a meter at your boundary and get a legal contract written in case seller moved on. At a previous house I had a neighbours drain connected to mine at the boundary and deeds included clause regarding maintenance. My parents lived in a Victorian terrace for 50 years with a shared supply (no meters) and had no problems (apart from shared stop cock but vary rarely an issue.)

Well done zoot . Looks really good ?

This problem is the main reason I did not want dormers on my build, aesthetically i like them but well insulated dormers can be very chunky and ugly. Although a cold bridge it’s not a huge area

I was told exactly this when I sold a house, “I am going to fit a new kitchen” I said “don’t waste your money or time” the estate agent said!

When I designed our house I said “no variations” but then again I am good at planning, some people find it difficult to imagine the end product.

There is virtually no Mortor between blocks, stop it now.