joe90

No, the ASHP programmer is sooo complicated I gave up (even with Jeremy’s help as he had the same ASHP and controller) Ours is on 24/7 (UFH) the ASHP heats an 80litre buffer tank controlled by a stat on the tank set to 35’. Our ASHP only heats water to one temp (and we set that to 48’) for both DHW and heating. The room stat calls for heat and this switches on the pump on the manifold. The manifold temp is set to 25’. I switch the buffer tank off during the summer by a switch giving open cct on the buffer tank stat. Perhaps not a Normal set up but it’s simple and works.

We are also on clay (used to be a moor), we installed a treatment plant discharging into a ditch that is only wet part of the year, it’s a Vortex. Advertise your stone locally, someone will gladly want it. Once you get planning post your individual questions as you will get a better response (certain people have specific areas of knowledge. Good luck and ask away (oh and we like pictures).

I remember our Jeremy Harris building his own weather compensation programming but ultimately dumped it fir a simple room stat. I like simple (less to go wrong). I run mine from a simple room stat with a small hysterisis mounted in the hallway, no zones but run the lounge at a slightly higher flow rate (as this is the room you tend to sit still in the most). The stat has timeing built in but never use it. House one temp 24/7. Works fir us.

I have some black smooth hammerite so you can try it.

Nah, been living in shit fir years mate ?

Yes before and make sure they are covered well. Plaster is almost impossible to get out of wood grain.

Try hammerite smooth black, very thick and needs no primer/undercoat.

All I can say is the couple of times mine has gone into defrost it is no more noisy than ordinary running.

It’s not that I don’t recommend an impact driver I just never had one and didn’t feel the need.I would use 4” (100mm) nails myself for that stud work.

Then get a new decent one, I have an 12volt deWalt with two batteries and it does everything I ask it, torque is so strong if a large drill jams it can hurt your wrist. Other good ones are available, that and a good hammer will do you well. There is a lot of difference between a cheap hammer and a good well balanced one. https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dcd701d2-gb-12v-2-0ah-li-ion-xr-brushless-cordless-drill-driver/422hp https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-claw-hammer-20oz-0-57kg/7689v I recommend a 20 ounce hammer for framing 16 ounce is too light.

My monoblock does not have a pump, I have a separate pump inside (very low hum), some monoblocks do have a pump within them. I also have no idea what this hydraulic unit is (maybe I should read up on it). My UFH has an additional pump which is virtually noise free.

Frankly what’s wrong with a hammer and nails, it’s what I did for years, I only went gas nailer when I had lots of jobs lined up. I have never used an impact driver, I always use a cordless drill!!

Holly shit, is it that heavy, shame we can’t find a few fit chaps fir a bit of cash. I will pop in Monday.

Just had a look at the spec and it has a pump, the heat exchanger will make no noise at all, the pump a low hum at worst so no, should make no more noise than say your fridge at the worst. Because they were trying to fix something that was sold you (as fit fir purpose, which it is not). The company is now going to replace the lot with a different type. If you bought a new car that was faulty they would try to fix “the problem” not offer you a new one.

If you buy second hand you will get most of your money back re selling it, you just need to find one.

At least they have come up with a proposal, well done zoot. I think most of us have monoblock units, all the gubbins outside and protected by antifreeze just like your car. The internal gubbins is just a heat exchanger with no electric bits (from what I can gather). I think this will be much better fir you. No one else here has had the problems you have had (but I know of no one that has a split unit).

Where is he? Is he dead (or just pinned under a steel).

@pocster, missed this thread (been busy) I am coming to Bristol Monday and can give you a hand if you don’t mind waiting, I have some short scaff poles (that fit in my car). Let me know ?

+1?

Many years of practice.

1/ I would see if your house insurance will cover any legal challenge 2/ proof needed it’s on your property (trespass) 3/ also even if you cut it away it appears he is letting his surface water empty onto your property.

Or, multiple coats of paint on the back of the stops!, scrape it all off and see it it’s better.

When I hang new doors I like plant on door stops (not machined into the frame.) hang the door first then add the door stops using a 1mm spacer between door and stop, people forget the thickness of the paint.

Yup.

I don’t think so!,! Rank amateur with tools!. I always use matchsticks or carve my own wood plugs when moving screws a little. Screws at angles is so wrong.