joe90

No mention of the insulation/airtightness level in the house? What temp the stat is set too! If they could separate the usage from the two it might give them a better idea of what uses what.

As it’s just one joist (and I am OCD) I would pack it, if you don’t do it and if it is noticeable after being plastered it’s too late and you will kick yourself all for a bit of hardboard and 15minutes work ?‍♂️

Don’t we all ?

Hardboard is a great packer, I use it a lot.

@zoothorn thats fine, don’t sweat, it will work as it is, well done, it’s not a bodge job ? (mixing small amounts of concrete is more difficult to get right than large amounts)

I think that was the subtly innuendo in @epsilonGreedy and my reply ?. It’s certainly what I grew up with. Saying that mm are far easier than fractions of an inch ?

From what I have read (and I am open to being proved wrong!) the Germans for example still work on the old system of apprentices and investment back into the business, also most Germans prefer to buy Germans made products. We appear to have digressed into buying cheap (china) products and not supporting our own industries. I believe it’s also true that we have the lowest productivity amongst similar nations. Don’t get me wrong I would not want a politicians job for all the tea in China but the country voted to leave the EU, not the gov (there were pro Brexits and remainers in gov). It would appear the pig Industry relied on migrant workers and yes units not the gov,s job to help every failing industry. (I like the old wiring colours too ?)

Depends how much you need to do but I would hire a floor sander with roughest paper to take off the worst (which will give you the best surface to glue too), 1 or 2 mm of bow with glue and bamboo flooring would be acceptable to me. I glued oak flooring to a screed that was out by 3mm at worst and the glue for than coped well. I agree with @Nickfromwales about tileing re ply but wood flooring is more forgiving.

Wot he said ?

Makes interesting reading and the fact that Japan has used similar fuel cells fir many years!! https://www.viessmann.co.uk/products/combined-heat-and-power/fuel-cell/vitovalor/how-vitovalor-works

With our build (ASHP, UFH) Er indoors wanted gas cooking so I had to install LPG, if I had my way we would have had induction, the oven Is electric anyway .

Despite my error with measuring eaves ?, decide on your ceiling height, add ceiling joist, rafter, tiles but you need to draw this up to get an accurate answer. However if you had skeilings I.e. ceiling joists not on wall plate but further up roofing joists you could get higher ceiling heights ?.

@pocster might have one (if you can wait a couple of years???)

Just found what I copied from the planning portal, no mention of measuring height at wall. Outbuildings and garages to be single storey with maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of four metres with a dual pitched roof or three metres for any other roof. Maximum height of 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within two metres of a boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse. just found what you quoted above on the gov. Website ?. Oops. ?‍♂️

Ooh er, didn’t know that, I have always understood it to be the guttering. Perhaps I was lucky my planners didn’t challenge it ?

Correct, the gutter. I was limited to 2.5m for permitted development but wanted a tall door to get my van into the garage and give me a decent internal height as it was also used as a workshop. The roller door mechanism was about 350mm but still gave me 2.5m opening. I had no insulation as it was only a garage/workshop. The large overhang also meant driving rain stayed out of the garage when the door was open ?.my overhang was 500mm.

I managed to do this with my garage by having large overhanging eaves, gutter at 2.5m and ceiling 2.8m.

Correct (I did this, several times .) Why, unless the house “looks” different (example - brick not timber clad ) then planning has nothing to do with building regs (which controls construction standards).

I am sure many would disagree with you on this one, quite a few here have a professional timber build that is very good in all aspects and the customers very happy.

Which is why I parged/rendered/plastered the internal block (even parged between ceiling/floor before flooring/plasterboard installed)

It could if you had large enough DHW tank and underfloor heating.

+1. Also my new build only has a few very small cracks where ceilings meet walls so not part of the air barrier. Cracks in render/plaster can be repaired, I am not convinced glue or barrier membranes have longevity.

The airtightness of block walls comes from the render/plaster internally, yes attention to detail is required whatever the method.

Yes heat pumps won’t solve all our problems or replace gas boilers in badly insulated houses. I self installed mine which I bought cheap on Ebay and am very pleased with it.

As @PeterW says the number should be portable.