joe90

Correct, I had no lintel under my brick arches.

It’s a shame that some of the slates are a bit short, so some lead has to cover that, but as you say, not very visible so no problem eh.

Individual soakers every time IMO, I hate great lumps of lead showing.

I once had to fix a basin to a wall, no pedestal, the wall was so damp/crap I ended up putting stainless threaded rod right through it (9” solid) with a plate and nut on the outside then repaired the render over it. Might be over engineered but I but it’s still there.

Interesting how hair balls seem to collect in it and the odd “object” flushed by mistake.

The vortex has a “catchment” container fir foreign objects to be easily removed without blocking pipes etc.

Then why replace it?, get the cover sorted (you have enough to do on the rest of the house!!,!,!,)

My Vortex has been in fir nearly 5 years and not been emptied yet and still nowhere near needing to be emptied! For peace of mind at least I'd like to "sort" the lid. Repair or maybe cast a reinforced slab in situ over the top with a safer, padlockable access. I agree 👍

As I have said before I have a vortex and can’t fault it.

@Adsibob I think you need to measure the weight of the books you propose to put on each of these shelves first 😱 then boffins like @Gus Potter can give you more accurate info as to what’s required.

Mine is only 6” diameter (but don’t tell @pocster🤣) and sweep it through the stove after removing the inner baffle.

Yes mine takes a while to get going, the pumice takes time to heat up and draw well. Stop worrying about what the builder did, there is nothing you can do (apart from take it down to inspect it), hot burns and not ticking over is the best way to reduce soot so your doing it right 👍

If you are getting very little soot then your woodburner is working well, I also have a pumice liner and get very little soot in it.

If the verticals i suggested we’re oak or similar (or even steel) you could bolt these to it with a metal plate on the reverse side. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124220875437?_

If it were me I would put a timber on the wall in line (vertically) with the stud and bracket off that, no punching through the plasterboard and less rotational force in a small area 🤔.

Well spotted, in fact that was the old one, 180k miles and started having electrical problems. Spent a bit replacing items but kept giving problems so sold it to a dealer (who reckoned he could fix it) and bought a newer one (only 80k). Brilliant car, can get loads in it (estate) got 60mpg the other day on an a road and £100 a year less road tax. 👍

Not everyone’s cup of tea but it works very well fir us and I get constant comments from passers by and neighbours how good it looks.

Which is why when I was working my quotes read like war and peace, I came across so many builders/customers that argued about what was “meant”, I never had that problem.

Does not the COP of an ASHP bring it in line with gas? (Well it did before Putins war 🤔)

OSB4 otherwise known as smart ply as recommended in passive houses for a high “perm”

But surely that’s standard building regs which every new build must comply with?

I think I remember using an odd size pipe (push fit??) with difficulty into a compression fitting and needing a thinner rubber seal ring 🤔

No, luckily I had the cash from a previous sale for my build, the building regs include water use and some, like Jeremy, got pulled up on it and made to instal water saving devises in taps etc, my guy was far more laid back about it. 👍

Ha, my BCO looked at my huge bath and said “you know that does not meet building regs but if I make you change it you will only put it back again afterwards!” And moved on…..

No, he (and others) are of the same opinion that architects rarely stick to budgets. Again No, as a professional in the building industry @PeterW has brought a wealth of knowledge to this forum. Yes ignore the comments that do not help you answer your questions 👍