ToughButterCup

While I don't know anything about the technicality of TPOs, I do know something about the difference between developers and self-builders. Here's not the place for the backstory. Now (four years after starting) I'd just bloody well get on with it. Every other builder round here would..... Understandably you are keen to keep it legal honest and truthful, (to plagiarise a phrase). And any LPA functionary, on finding some form of breach or error, has to (I think is actually required to) give you advice as to how to proceed. Pending that advice, or a response from the LPA, get on with it. Buy a Brino time lapse camera, set it up and evidence the fact that the trees are not suffering. Just Bloody Do It. A thicker skin is the norm for self-building after a while.

Even I make mistakes... ? The errors seem to vary a bit between joists... Roughly 20 - 30 mm generally This photo was taken with the other end hard up against the joist on the other wall, so here the error is 15 or 16 mm. Thanks for watching my back.

OK, here goes. Lengthening the joist as per the SE's (Cullen's own SE) is acceptable. Packing out the top and bottom chords is acceptable (BCO and Cullen's SE) And I had a really interesting discussion with the BCO yesterday. I made the point that the bottom of the joist hanger extends below the bottom of the wall plate. And that my learning from this discussion group is that a 'floating' bottom chord, even if nominally supported by a joist hanger is undesirable. He agreed. I said I would replace the wallplate with one which supports the bottom chord of the joist directly. OK it's a PITA, but that's all. Here's what really interests me: the BCO drew my attention to the tops of the UH hanger I mentioned that the designer told me that we are allowed to snap that top bit off if needed. The blurb here (page 49), (Cu Cullen technical Guide .pdf) talks about '... Elongated slots and unique snap off feature, allows for height adjustment and face fix only option...' And in the way of BCOs the world over, he asked for documentary evidence (sent) So, it seems likely that I'll replace the wallplates, pack out the ends as directed, and put the joists up. We agreed that I'd do a small section of one room and then ask the BCO to visit to see how I'm getting on. All in all, I think that between us, we have managed to pull my hand out of the fire. Photos to follow later this week. Ian

That's me, four times so far.

You, me (and many others) all. Slowly though, I'm finding the more issues I face - often after @Onoff levels of procrastination - the more confident I get at sorting them out. Progress is slow however. For me, it's about persistence: consistent persistence. A good few days each month find me mooning around in avoidance mode. Tired, irritable, grizzly. For me BH is a life-saver. Without it, we'd be in a complete mess, and broke. The worst thing is the lack of control. Many of us are (or recently were) professionally at the top of our games. We know (knew) our stuff. And then we decided to build a house. Knowingly threw ourselves into a whirlpool. How many people would have the balls to do that?

Wyre Borough - £22. We do, and they don't mind...... Very nice lads, very very nice lads

And if you want an example of persistence, that's one of the very best I have ever read. No matter how often I read it, it still makes my withers shrink - well disappear actually. I could not have been that hard core about finding a solution to a self-build problem.

Oh yes you have. If we (corporate 'we') can't help you solve the problem of finding the right expert, nobody can. All you need is persistence.

I've been looking forward to someone asking this question....... Gonna pour myself a large mug of tea, put my feet up and watch. I think folk will want to know the orientation of your roof space(s) in relation to the sun, how close you are to a reliable water source , how you intend to treat it, and your tolerance threshold for listening to trades folk suck their teeth or in some cases, dentures. Whatever, welcome. PS, I have a decent Landrover for sale. Full meat-head fit out

What a sensible woman. Dishwashers work when they aren't working. Where do you put dirty crockery when the other one is washing? Like I say, top lass !

Those were the days, those were the days......

Key issue ( @scottishjohn ) is sign off....... by the SE at Cullens, and the BCO. @mvincentd, I have asked directly whether I may put blocks in top and bottom because I thought - given all the posts by you @JSHarris and others about compression, shear and bouncing POSIs. I'm surprised you make the point above - '...and surely good practice at least even if not critical at an engineering level....' I thought it was critical. But then what do I know? [ A whole lot more than I did on Monday]

Thanks boys... only just seen this. I sent the drawings and email exchange to the BCO yesterday. He's visiting on Monday. Would it make sense to put another block tight up against the top chord - in the same way that there's a yellow block on the bottom chord in your drawing @mvincentd ? I'll try a mock-up over the weekend.

Locally, I have seen developers ignore TPOs. Its a build-cost

Ah' v ice in ma vains pal! 'N wee bit lager...... Nae hart trace visible.

This is a bloody steeeeep learning curve.

I found this site to be a big help This was also a help...

+ a million. Focuses minds just beautifully.

I expect there's a good reason not to use something like Illbruck airtight foam......

Durisol needs 'scotch broth'. Thats as technical as it got. The lad on the wagon and, by chance, the lad on the pump both knew of Durisol and the general requirements for slump. At first sight it's worryingly wet. Durisol technical guidance is available on their site

Is that the question? How do I make sure there is no warm moist air in the conduit?

Thanks Joe. The cheque is in the post...... I like the sound of the last bit... the diagram and .... easy to do. I like that a lot.

Thanks folks. Here's a copy and paste from the manufacturer I spoke to the engineer who calculated the detail at Cullen and have had this response below. “Hi Steve, They are welcome to put blocks in above and below but they are not required. If they feel they want to do this it’s fine as long as the screws are in and the middle block is tight first. Regards,” So yes, if you want to fill the areas above and below then not a problem but it is not required for the floor performance. Best regards, Steve In other words, the top and bottom chords can be supported. One by one we're knocking them down............. Now then, how to handle the BCO? Advice please. If the manufacturer has designed and signed off a solution to the problem, has the BCO the authority to refuse to allow the modification? If he / she were to refuse (and in this case a refusal really would offend) surely it would have to be on the basis of reasoned argument? Put another way, this solution enables the BCO to argue that it's nothing to do with him (in this case it is a him). For the sake of completeness, I attach the relevant document for review. 104 18 - Cheshire Roof Truss_28-11-2018_R-104 18_RevA.pdf

Some of you will be aware of this thread. It itemises a series of errors on my part. The wet-fish slap in my face was provided by @mvincentd. For which I am sincerely grateful. Cutting through the clutter of a five page thread and seeing the core of the problem is not easy. Thanks @mvincentd. POSIs ordered were 100mm or less too short. The thread explains how I made the error. It shows quite how much support you can muster on BH by making one simple post. At one stage I was resigned to re-ordering a new set and hawking the old set of POSIs on eBay. Many technically savvy people pitched in: it became very obvious how much experience is packed into this little Discussion Group. Technical resolutions to the problem were offered and, truth to be told, I didn't take much notice of them. Thats the problem with my German extraction: your instinct is to do it right or not at all. Perhaps because I'm old, with the supplier, I tried to apply the conflict resolution techniques I taught for so many years. I say tried because its a damn sight easier teaching others how to do it than to apply it to yourself. And, slowly the possibility of a technical solution became clearer in my disappointed brain. So this thread is about looking forward to a sensible way of solving this little problem. A series of people @PeterStarck , @scottishjohn, @joe90, @Russell griffiths, @Nickfromwales all supported the idea of lengthening the body of the joist. And when @JSHarris pitches in and supports those saying that I ought to consider the idea, I did what I should have done ages before. Picked up the phone. Steve Grice of Cheshire Roof Trusses has been dealing with my orders for joists. He's patient. Has to be.? He suggested he talk to Cullens the hanger manufacturer. And a certain Nicola Small came up with this idea In the way of things on BH, one idea - fifty opinions. Most pointed to the issue of unsupported top and bottom chords. Anyway, I read through them all and had a chat with Steve Grice (manufacturer) this morning. He agreed to talk to Nicola (Cullens, hanger manufacturer) to see if we could pack out the top and bottom chords. (The area immediately above and below the purple-shaded area above) Cant say I hadn't heard the exact same idea from @joe90 . Why he even supplied a diagram. Hey Joe! Did Nicola ring up yesterday and ask you ? ?

Yes See this post earlier in the thread ('... This isn't easy...')