ToughButterCup
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Posts
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Everything posted by ToughButterCup
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There's a man who knows just when and how to throw a life-belt.....
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Yes: but my eyes watered at the cost of shaped insulation: and local 'advice' ? told me it could be done more cheaply. Neither am I : I think it's a case of 'S Passiv'ous innit mate - load a shite that ' The planning conditions: the parapet has to remain where it is in terms of level. Maybe its me, maybe I take Planning Conditions too seriously: when the very local evidence is that others couldn't give a stuff and just do what they want. Here you are Thats as detailed as it gets (got). Just been out to measure the gap in the POSIs 126 ish mm..... Originally the MVHR quote required a space of 165 between the top and bottom chord of the POSIs. Well, we've got 125ish . Rather than a Genvex which we'd set our hearts on. Bum. If we use this system instead, magically we can shove the pipes between the top and bottom chord and the height problem goes away . The ducting is 75mm. Jus' like that. Not like this, like that
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Hmmm, as ever a pragmatic approach, but how do I get a perfect gradient? I expect I'm being thick..... Roughly chop it to profile and then use a Surform rasp ? Anyway, why can't Kingspan just cut it for me FGS? They are cutting blocks 1,2 and 3 after all.
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Yes. And when I asked the Kingspan man - how is that (less one side than the other) then ? - came the response that It didn't matter. Thats not how you calculate the U value for the roof. And a few alarm bells went off in my head: hence the post. I don't know what to expect so '...proper detailing...' means little to me. At the moment. I am now doing it myself. (CDM 2015 Domestic Client). When the architect did the drawing I think he expected to liaise with contractors - his argument is (and has been several times over different issues) that no matter what he draws on paper, contractors do it their way anyway. The MVHR piping was meant to run within the POSIs, but now - as specified- can't - so they need to run under the POSIs. Bang goes 200mm or so. I suppose I might get the MVHR people to squeeze the pipes into the available space. Maybe need to go down that rat run..... I don't want to get into a sideshow about how why or when. I just need to just bloody well do it (to misquote the Nike advert line). I know exactly why we aren't going down the cold roof route. And here is their quote for exactly that.... Blocks 4,5,6,7 and 8 are the ones I have been told I need to cut to shape.
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Exactamento! Been there, got the T shirt - jus' cant do it (in the space available). Honestly we've gone into it in great detail. They are the ones who are telling me I have to cut it..... ! Gottcha!
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After much research we now know our flat roof can only be built using shaped insulation. And elbow grease. '... Much research.... ' disguises a long , nitty gritty detail process, much head and withers scratching. However, good progress towards conscious incompetence has been made. Not bad when you consider I started out unconsciously incompetent. Help me on my journey please.... One quote shows that, to create the fall, some of the PIR panels will be cut to shape by the producer - here's the twist we have to cut about 8 sheets to shape. Calamity, calamity. Just a simple wedge of cheese shape, but still currently - without a mountain of waste PIR - beyond me . Ah the joys of DIY eh? I know now that if I stick at this little sod of a challenge, I'll get there..... The lovely old guy who daily walks past our place -facing the friendly overtures of our fearless tom cat- says I should hot wire it. Memories of modelling glider wings Anyone done this before?
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Morning, welcome! All of us, every Man-Jack (Woman Jackie ?) one of us here is working towards conscious competence : well, almost all. The unconsciously competent will be along in a minnit. Welsh plumbers, weapons experts, computer whizkids, people who know how to keep smoke inside wires, the odd planner, some poachers turned gamekeeper, ex engineering lecturers, and modest lawyers. Theres even one special guy who really can make mud stick on a wall, I kid you not. My strength is ferreting. So, here's yer spreadsheet. The search engine on this site is good: not the best, but good. -
Hello, welcome. Do you have Outline Planning Permission yet? I ask because of horses and carts.....?
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Well, @Sue B, and @Christine Walker there's life after self-build is there? Thats good to know. And we're all so nosey here on BH that we'll be following yours too. Ian
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Gary, you seem to be using a lot of metal carcassing : tell us why.....
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What do home buyers want?
ToughButterCup replied to Dreadnaught's topic in New House & Self Build Design
They want the property to look as if the land around it looks as if it belongs to the property. Even if it doesn't. -
Thanks: simple innit - when you know. Covering... prolly EPDM
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Yes, Russ it is timber : but whats a pre-folded flashing?
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Me neither, and I've just had mine put in. Thats the clue..... Get the window designer to give you a cross sectional drawing. Here's a relevant google search Or copy and paste these terms into your preferred search engine window installation cills sectional drawing
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??
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What are my chances?
ToughButterCup replied to Hecateh's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Only 4 months? Yer doing well. We all, well, nearly all, have the same issue. There's too much work about. Debbie's take on the subject is that we aren't repeat customers. One off jobs are sometimes sufficiently quirky that trades people have to think a tiny bit harder. Why bother with those jobs when all you need to do is go down the pub and come away with a few follow-on jobs. That's the West Lancs picture anyway. -
I appreciate the response.... looking at the product details, I see the following.... ' ... Fix lead or Wakaflex Rapid Flashing in lengths not exceeding 1.5 metres, laying it into the trays and ensuring that it is firmly engaged into the channel on the leading edge of the tray...' Thanks @the_r_sole : the issue is keeping the flat roof as low as possible The end in mind is to avoid the use of lead if I can. Why? I don't really know. I will be DIYing it, so there's a good reason to keep things simple. I've never handled lead before: don't get me wrong I'm up for the challenge, but there are many others competing for my attention.
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Yes. Is there a non-ventilated version of a cold flat roof? If so BINGO!
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I have a small flat roof to build. Nearly sorted everything out - one last detail niggles, though. The roof abutment ventilator. There are lots tof choose from. But the ones I have seen require a lead flashing. Is there any way I can avoid fitting a lead flashing?
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Enjoy that while you can. Harness it. Store it. Bottle it. You'll need to drink from that bottle later. One sip at a time. In the meantime, welcome.
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I've done my best not to bother you all with this question, but..... I'm not far off fitting my wall plate - and thus my joists for the little (steeply sloping) flat roof. Joists and wall plate on site, just waiting for the concrete to dry a bit. And of course, its DIY The nice folks from Cheshire Roof Trusses sent me the necessary ironmongery. Here it is. This sooooo embarrassing ......... Which way up do I use the Simpson Strong Tie? ? Should the stamped ridge face outwards (away from the wall plate towards the joist) like this? A simpler way of asking the question might be either : What does the top chord of the joist sit on: the square tabs or the rounded ones? Or conversely, do the rounded tabs sit on the top of the wall plate or the square tabs? I think I know how to use the corner plates. It's hard work this DIY lark........
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Hello, welcome! Give us a starter for 10.... Lets say : what tip would you give a crotchety old geezer - dickey knees, bad back, ruined hands who is about to fit his own small flat roof for the very first (and last) time ? He's still got a sense of humour, however. Flat roof: 20 sq meters, EPDM, OSB3, cold.
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Planning a wet room.
ToughButterCup replied to TheMitchells's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
So, big boy: which one's that then? (For those who might not know) -
In Durisol, the concrete forms a lattice, not a solid layer. There might well be a few 'holes' in our concrete - if only because during the pour the slump varied a little. A thicker pour increases the likelihood of an air pocket. Scotch Broth is said to be the ideal slump. Looks disconcerting ....
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Durisol is not appropriate for that kind of job....
