ToughButterCup

Consider getting the suggested Phase 1 Study done: a study which looks at existing data and makes a judgement on the extent to which a detailed study needs to be done. That means (among other things) a look at historical maps of the area : hopefully not of any real relevance to your case. In ours, the local area had some 'quarrying' for clay (at the end of the century before last) and that was felt to be sufficiently relevant to require further investigation. ( See @Bitpipe's post above). A hard look at the site, even a moderately expensive one, is a very useful risk reduction exercise. And when you're about to spend a good chunk of money anyway, it rankles a bit more than normal. The data thrown up by our survey was useful (required documentation, even) on several occasions. At the time of the survey, we had no idea how crucial the documentation would become. Before you do any of the above, it might be wise to get definitive answers to the following questions; Has work started at the site? Yes or No. If yes, then why has the Condition not been met? What constitutes 'start of works' locally? If work has not started, how long has (Outline?) PP been in force. What that really means is, how close to the three year commencement threshold (for starting work) is the plot. The closer to the 3 year time limit, the more bargaining power you have. What proportion of your budget is the site investigation? Is £3000 worth worrying about? Or will that cost ruin other plans? Good luck Ian

Is that good or bad? Is it too obvious / naive / stupid to suggest you do the same?

On test this afternoon......?

Brilliant! Lunch!

You need to read the General Binding Rules. And also realise that discussion amongst neighbours about the soft and smelly stuff is never going to be easy. We had to solve exactly the same problem at the start of our build. Because people understand the basic rule: no foul drain no house - in our case it brought out the very worst in one or two of our neighbours. But the very best in another. We were very lucky indeed. I wish you similar luck. Beware also of the number of pure charlatans operating as drainage 'engineers'. Your only defence is detailed, in depth knowledge of the rules and regulations. And a clear understanding of proper drainage design. Reading this Aesop's tale might be useful

Visor or glasses? I really like a visor..... feel like a plonker when wearing one , though....

My eyes aren't what they once were. Worse, this time of year, in addition to work-related dust, there's pollen. Over time, I have accumulated an impressive collection of eye protection. Stored here, there and everywhere: car floor, bedside table, underfoot, tool bag, dog kennel, and the eye-wear storage box. Oh, and there's a pair on my head at the moment: not so long ago I managed to get into the shower with a pair tucked into my goldilocks . Which made me think. How best to clean them? Tried all sorts, but there's one way that exceeded all expectations. The dishwasher. I'd love to find a scratch-proof set: dishwashers can't sort that problem. Have you found some that don't scratch?

In the light of recent posts in this thread, I'll try and do a bit of digging into the nature of the relationship between the UK owners and the Master Craftsmen. .... (Reiner Quatsch! Ich wette dass die Firma uns auf den Arm nehmen wollt.)

I only have 8 fingers left. Of which six are now smoking from having touched the content of this thread - the remaining two are on fire. I am happy with the idea of early adoption, but at this stage of the product development cycle, this kind of thing should not be happening, perhaps? Would you be kind enough to give me one good reason to buy SunAmp for hot water supply only, please!

Do what you're good at. Let them do what they are good at. Watch them like a hawk. Every single day without fail

Arbeit - ja, schon..... Quatschkopf bist Du.... ==================================== Here's the answer folks; Most of our product series follow some logic with their product numbers. E.g. 221-412 4 = 4mm2 (the maximum cable size the connector will take) 2 = 2 pole connector However, other series follow a different pattern. E.g. 2002-1201 2 = 2.5mm2 (the maximum cable size the connector will take with a ferrule) 1 = Number of levels – in this case a single level 2 = Number of conductors it will connect 1 = colour reference (1 = grey, 4 = blue, 7 = green/yellow) It isn’t something that is in our catalogues, as it does differ with each series. Are there any product series you were wanting more information on? Best regards Jennifer Brady Assistant Product Manager phone: +44 1788 568-008 fax: +44 1788 568-050 <<mailto:jennifer.brady@wago.com>> WAGO Limited Triton Park Swift Valley Ind. Est. Rugby Warwickshire CV21 1SG

Right, that does it. Gonna do some digging .?

Is there any rationale for the WAGO numbering system, is it arbitrary?

Here we go: can't wait to have a play with them later on this morning I see there's nothing for a 1.5mm LED lighting wire. That doesn't matter does it?

Hmm, I got it wrong then. ?

I always suspected it Russ. You are a very nice man, a very very nice man. Wouldn't last a minute in Lancashire.

Locally, (West Lancs) the problem gets sorted at 6:30 on Sunday mornings. The inevitable fine is factored into the cost. Simples!

Brinno for me. Saved us several thousand pounds ; evidence of criminal behaviour on the part of one or two employees.

You dont ....

I use zip ties, always have. Never used a spanner once.

Here's the relevant thread.

The business case. Why rent scaffold that's subject to regulation and monthly hire charge, when you can (in our case) spend £5K+ and get the money back later on? I do not have to have KS inspected or ask a scaffolder to move it. And I can build a scaffold tower if I need one, and move it around inside the house - with four wheels. Initially I was daunted by the prospect of taking full responsibility of it, but now - with care - I seem to manage Ok on my own. Its abit quicker with two, but 1 person can handle it.

?

Not helpful is it.... but par for the course. Here's what to do; Work out the fall from your final discharge to the winter water table . Dont know what the water table level is? Dig a hole and watch what happens in various weather conditions : it varies widely here. Dig the hole for the tank Most tanks (from all suppliers I bet) have little lugs on the side which are designed to give concrete something to hold onto. Pop the tank in the hole. Backfill with concrete to a level higher than the lugs on the tank If necessary install ground anchors (complex name for a simple device: some bits of metal chained to the side of the tank) If you like install a ground drain round the tank such that it tends to keep the groundwater low near the tank (I did this because I'm anal) backfill with shingle (round shingle) and MOT1 22mm to fines Connect the supply and discharge side of the tank as per regs. Is the cheque in the post yet?

My distribution box for the MVHR ( sometimes called spigot box or manifold) will sit beneath a flat roof , but above a ceiling. The roof build up from top down is; Alvitra Avalon over 270mm of insulation on some super expensive vapour stuff - forgotten the name - the price was so traumatic 22mm OSB3 POSIs above the ceiling build up which is Vapour control layer 25mm insulation 12 mm plasterboard 2mm plaster skim. There's enough space for spigot boxes to sit comfortably under the POSIs. That means they are outside the heated envelope. (just) The supplier says not to worry : but they would wouldn't they? Everyone has that problem, said the rep, What do you think?