Russell griffiths

All depends where you are locating the things you talk about. ASHP if this is on an external wall of the house then take the wires through the service void in those rooms. same with car port if it’s fixed to the side of the house then straight through the wall, if it’s down the garden then you will need a duct. why is the solar coming in via a duct unless it’s a ground mounted array down the garden. solar panels from roof to an isolator switch then armoured cable to inverter. all depends on final location. I have every item you talk about and it takes up 4-50mm ducts for electric stuff and 2 for comms in and comms out. .

Why tint the ceiling paint. if you want a coloured ceiling then have it a colour, if you go for one of these trendy whites it just looks like it’s grubby and needs re painting. unless you have a good picture with the colours on it to get a good idea what it will look like.

The problem you have is you are trying to to do two different things you want a shiny paint with no pores open to stop moisture getting to it because it’s a kitchen, but then you want a flat mat paint to hide the plasterers sins. ive just painted a shower room in zinzer permanent white and it looks really good, however it has no windows in there so I cannot vouch for its hiding properties. but definitely something I will use in wet areas again. in a kitchen i would go with one of the flat ones we mentioned as it shouldn’t get damp, if you have kitchen extraction then it’s not going to affect it. rubbing it all down oooh that’s the question I wouldn’t because you then make it dusty and will then need to hoover it and wash it. but I might be inclined to go over the f and b with a primer, maybe the Tikurila optiva primer then the Tikurila anti reflex. you could phone Tikurila technical help line.

Wrong paint I’m afraid. johnstones perfect matt or tikurila. I’ve never used the Tikurila, but the johnstones is good stuff. I’ve got some serious ceilings with big windows and loads of natural light. The Johnstones hides a lot of stuff.

I would do this. ⬆️

Do you mean a whole house ducted system with a main unit in the loft, or do you mean like a split system with a unit on the wall. my whole house ducted system used 200mm flexible insulated ducts if that’s what you mean, one to each bedroom and one each in the front room / lounge areas.

900 is too deep unless your in the artic. 700 standard.

How long will you need it ? insuring 1.8 for a premium of £4000 is not a bad rate, it’s a fairly high risk area. does that cover public liability and other stuff. if your going to be finished in a year or two that’s a small percentage of build cost. mine was only £1200 a year but i renewed it 4 times.

Trim off all the foam layer down to screed level get a can of illbruck fm330 foam, good squirt around all ducts and down the ducts, as it dries and expands a bit you can pat it into shape or just trim it back afterwards. or don’t bother trimming and just leave a big blob under the cupboard if your worried about catching the pipes or cables.

Look up the rules for your vat claim, you don’t need bc final sign off, you need a few things that might bring you back to bc but you DONT need final sign off.

As I said I’m no electrician, but if something needs a feed instead of just plugged into the ring then give it its own feed, it’s a new house so easy to do and minimal cost.

I don’t think you need one. if you are handling outside trades yourself then why do you need a builder inside, what you need is project management. so either yourself or get a project manager or find one of the trades you are talking to now and see if they are interested. once you have your MBC frame up you need a roof on it, after this you can have a breather.

I’m no electrician but we have two ovens and a hob, all 3 items are on their own dedicated circuit hob with a 10mm cable and the two ovens on 6mm each. don’t be using fused spurs, not in a new house. and look into your isolation switches, get the location right, no neon switches on show, all hidden nicely.

Add more of them to even out the spacing.

Don’t set them in concrete, bolt them onto a concrete pad, this way you can build all the structure up and bolt them down when you are happy. too many things get drawn up with little thought as to how to build it. or you need two wooden posts and a string line. or the alternative method is to dig your holes and build the entire structure, but don’t concrete the posts, just hang them in thin air by putting temporary blocks under the structure. when you are happy it’s all correct get a load of concrete at once and concrete in all the posts at the same time.

the cables here are a good 2 m.

This is a standard procedure in Australia build the steel framed garage first, fit a shower and toilet, divide off a bedroom area. move in say nothing and save £12,000 a year in rent. far more usable space than a skinny caravan. I lived in a 6x7 m cabin for 2 years with the wife and 2 dogs. The only thing we needed was more storage space, a shipping container would soon sort that out.

I like air admittance traps as well so one under the bath as well as basin.

Why. how often do you need to isolate your induction hob ? the day you buy a new one, that’s the only time you will ever go near that switch. put a surface mounted box in the corner and get moved onto the next problem.

two switches for ovens, why make it any more complicated.

Get a pole that the laser fits too for indoors, they have a mount for the laser that has fine adjustment, a spring loaded foot so you can compress the pole and fit it in a doorway. wish I had bought one years ago. the standard method of fitting indoors is to get an old wood saw and smash the plastic handle off, then use the hole in the end of the blade to put a screw through and hang on a stud or something, magnetic fixing on back of laser onto saw blade.

To vent the STP you can do this with a vent pipe running up the back of a shed or into the bushes and vertical, what you don’t want is it near the patio and bbq area.

If the wires are in place then that’s that, unless you want to move them. most of our isolation is in the pantry all flush fitted. however the isolation for the two oven is as you describe a 47mm surface box in the back corner of the cupboard. cut a square of osb and fit it behind the cupboard where the switch is going. 47mm in a 600 deep cupboard isn’t exactly taking up a lot of room.

Get on the phone now and sort some insurance. we were in exactly the same position, site insurance ran out in about a fortnight, we could extend but it was £1200 a year, go to a broker and talk through what you have built, don’t do it online.

Be careful looking at pictures not in the uk, it’s easy to find an idea that would be very hard to replicate with our regs and building methods.