Russell griffiths

Have you not noticed the oil crisis oil for heating is not available at the moment by me, with the depots saying a 3 week wait for deliveries, then they are saying that they won’t give you a price until they have it. it’s nearly 3 times the cost as it was last summer. I think @Onoffis trying to conserve it for hot water. Once that tank is empty it don’t work anymore.

Illbruck fm 330 is actually as cheap as the nasty rubbish from screwfix if you buy a box of 12 cans. do some google searching and buy a box of it, you will have wished you found it years ago.

That’s the problem with those trucks you don’t know what you are getting until it’s in. 3 x 8m trucks is 24m ask what a truck holds. unless you had 4 that is. I don’t like volumetric as I feel it never looks mixed properly.

I’m afraid you need to be firmer on the phone and say what you want. say you have a pump on site and need trucks at 30 min intervals for the first two, then the first one returns for the third load, probably hour and half after he was there the first time. should be all in the ground by 11.30. im afraid you need to be firm and try not to sound like a diy er. you will get it sorted for the floor slab.

My recent one was £250, but it was cheap as it was a second test and they knew everything was ok because the first test was below passive house standard. I would expect £400 for a test and then some exploration.

If you use the new tanalised post’s you will be lucky to get 7 years out of them. the old treatment was far superior. We are replacing fence posts by the thousands at the moment and some I remember putting in myself and I’ve only lived here 12 years. we are replacing everything with creosote posts. i would do some serious research before just buying a standard treated round post. there’s better out there but they come at a premium. how long are you going to live there ?

Doesn’t it need to score below 8 for building regs. I believe to get as bad as an 8 you could have a window open. I cannot see the developer doing anything, and I don’t believe they have to test every house anyway, so he will have a good excuse for it being poor anyway.

pump 3 tubes of this under it, stop 20 mm from the packers and let it dry for 48 hrs then chop the packers off flush with a sharp chisel, then fill the remaining gap and wipe over the ends of the packers. will dry more solid than mortar, won’t crack and fall out.

Unless he wants to take the skirting off, then what else can he do.

That’s an easy fix with a can of illbruck fm 330 foam. Undo the socket face and put the nozzle into all the empty screw holes in the back box, squirt away and lat it dry, cut off any excess.

glad i could help on this glorious spring day 🤣 you need to put more thought into will the vaulted ceiling be noisy when it rains. echo, nope that’s not happening. our room is a similar size. 8.5 x6.5 the ceiling is 5.3 and slopes to 3.5. It’s like a squash court. no soft furnishings at all apart from two leather sofas, no curtains up yet and no rugs.

Things to over think about on a Sunday.

Are you having a step in the concrete, if so get the shuttering set up ready and fixed into the sidewall of the trench. don’t be faffing about on the day. do you have room to get the trucks off the road, if so make sure it can take the weight, 30 tons of concrete truck are hard to get out of the mud. don’t think a sprinkling of type one on the surface will be good enough. proper parking base needed.

Change the pir out for xps insulation in the door area, look for one with a high compression something like xps 500. you have a cavity build up so will be a bit different to mine, but basically leave the inner blockwork low, fill your cavity with whatever you are doing and set the xps down solid onto this lower structure, doors sit on that, with whatever dpc you deam necessary don’t use 150 mm insulation, get 75mm and do two layers. Easier to cut and you can stagger the joints.

Now you have your pins in place you could set up your profile boards if you want, you can mark external wall and internal then see it all drops onto the foundation. are you going 600 wide or 700. im sure something changed recently regarding regs.

Don’t fit 32mm, 40 min and reduce to 32 under the basin.

You can get an extension and fit it with the liquid ptfe or the blue glue/ liquid stuff. personally i would fit it correctly out to 2mm shallower than the face of the tile. depends on your ability to sleep after it’s left like that.

Does it look right.

Look for the nail !

Side wall of trench is better. if you bang them in the bottom and go over by 10 mm you will never find them. if in the side the concrete tends to build up around the bar like a dam and is more visable. do you have a rotary laser and a receiver if so you fix the receiver on to a chunk of wood with a flat t shape on the bottom, tamp the concrete and put the receiver on it and wait for the beep beep noise. 10-20 mm out of level from end to end over 15m is perfectly acceptable. and will be taken out with the first course of blocks.

I don’t think the os map has much to do with it. site TOPO survey taken at beginning of project then all drawings laid over the TOPO.

Ask him.

For footings, pour it in get it level go to pub, that is it. do not cover, waste of money. slab, that’s a different matter, finished floor that’s a very different matter.

I haven’t seen profile boards used in years. they take your drawing and load it into their computer in the office, when they come to site it is all loaded into their total station all ready. they use a glass prism on the concrete footing that gets the accuracy bob on. get them to put a height post in, you can mark it with ffh and all the other things you need on it.

We had a local surveyor, he came to site 3 times. 1. rough set out. footprint plus 2 m in all directions so we could strip the site. 2. Accurate footing set out, footings set out with metal pins on every corner accurate to 20mm in any direction 3. Wall set out, masonary nails put into footing concrete on corner locations, accurate to the mm.