Russell griffiths

Just had a look at your original post, that’s about 80m of trench without looking too closely are you only putting 500mm of concrete in the bottom, if so then you will have loads of blocks up to floor level. this is normally an expensive way to do it instead of more concrete and less blocks.

I would want building inspector on site as soon as you have a 5 m length pulled to full depth, you will quickly work out if it isn’t deep enough, agree a depth and carry on, get the inspector to pop back before the end of the day or first thing the next morning. ask your jcb driver what he normally does and what is normal for the area. pump wise a line pump is cheaper, but will need moving manually during the pour, the lads that come with the pump will do that, a boom pump the one in johns picture is dearer and a lot bigger but doesn’t need the pipe moving during the pour as it’s all done by the operator using his remote control. do you have a foundation section drawing as it doesn’t sound like a lot of concrete, are you having too many courses of trench blocks.

But ridiculously dear between 4pm and 7pm the exact time we come in and bang the oven on. have you found the savings at off peak times make up for that high peak time rate ? or do ovens not suck as much as I’m thinking they used to.

What I would do now. look for an experienced owner operator who has his own 5 tonne smallest 8 tonne nicer digger, he will have his own transportation or know a company that brings his machine to site. he will probably have a mate who helps. you can find these on a Facebook site called 8 tonne and below. you will need a surveyor or you ( surveyor best ) to set everything out all pegs in the ground ready. you need a 3 tonne dumper minimum. you need 2-3 muck away companies in your phone who you have chatted to. you need building control to have been notified and ready to inspect as soon as you start. you need to have priced concrete and have it all ready just waiting on a phone call you need a concrete line pump for the pour day.

Cancel that. 5tonner or bigger get it ripped out quickly and re filled quickly. I thought you had your own machine. So getting something the same size is pointless. dont fook about with those silly 1 ton dumpers either 3 tonne hydrostatic drive dumper. More stable, carry more, and cost similar money. unless the site is tight which I didn’t think it was.

If you’re not driving the digger then your opinion doesn’t matter. if you have an experienced operator and a good groundworker then they will know exactly what to do. don’t interfere too much, sit on the dumper or work the laser, but trying to over manage lads that do this every day won’t go down very well. You won’t know how the corners will hold up until you start, you might come across a big patch of loose backfill,have the shuttering to hand you will dig all that in two days, you need a site visit the second you get 4-5 m of trench to full depth. you do not under any circumstances want to have to go back over it, so you need depth sign off the same day you start. what do you mean by shutter and pour multiple times. that all needs digging in one go and pouring in one hit the following day.

5-8mm

Then I would want them to have everything and be bloody good.

I used the aluminium vent strip the 25x50 strip with all the holes in, this is finished on top of the cladding with a small gap between this and the overhanging window cill.

Anybody with ASHP using the British Gas heat pump tariff, it looks similar to octopus cosy but without the peak rate premium. what’s the catch. are the standing charges huge.

Per man or for two of them. if for two then your lucky they even had boots on. at that rate for two you supply everything. if for each man then they need to supply everything and be spot on.

Easier to stick a 300mm chamber outside, straight from that under walls into a rest bend and then up to floor level under the cupboards.

What an absolute load of rubbish it’s no wonder things take so long in this country surely it’s up to the home owner to decide if he can drag a bin down the driveway. mine is 220m from house to road, it’s never come up in any questions with planning.

Haven’t done anything yet, was looking to see if it’s worth me bothering or just pay for some proper paperwork.

What documents will bc want for a MVHR install it’s a self install I fitted everything myself, can i commission it myself or do I need certain paperwork. cheers.

Probably going to put in a temporary concrete ramp.

Not bothered about the vat on £10,000 worth of bathroom fittings. It’s nothing compared to what I’ve got tied up in vat right now.

House is 90% complete but I have two bathrooms that are not even started, just studwoek with first fix pipes in place. we have one fully working bathroom and one disabled access cloakroom, I had planned to mothball the other two bathrooms as they are not needed and I have another project I want to start. has anybody got completion sign off without everything being complete. how complete is complete, I know a few have installed wooden disabled ramps and had sign off. got bc coming round for a chat I just fancy being a bit clued up on other peoples situations. cheers all.

Wasting our time bud.

Pull the heat pump out, you didn’t pay for it so who cares. fit an oil fired aga in the kitchen run the rads from this at high temperature. this is the sort of thing this building needs, woodburner in the evening. I don’t understand how this system was even fitted.

Hot return circuit

If you can get tulip wood in the length you need then go for that, more stable than pine, less knots easier to paint. I think you can get it finger jointed into longer lengths. I did a whole house in it and it’s nice to work with.

Who’s fixing skirting with nails, it’s not 1960. good quality grab adhesive. a few pin nails on the external mitres or even mitre bond.

If you use thermalites for your build you need to go and bang your forehead against a hard object until you pass out. when you come round go and get some medium density concrete blocks, you want a good quality structural block, the block should have zero relevance to the u value, you get that from the insulation and the quality of the installation of the insulation.

Why do you want class A , class B is standard for domestic.