Russell griffiths

I believe the gutter regs are inadequate for our changing climate. I based my design on living in oz where you have to have an outlet every 6m of gutter.

Use a paint whisk in a drill not the big mixer, takes 30 seconds to spin it around in a bucket of water to clean it. easier to keep a bag opened than a tub that is shite in the first place and will get crusty bits in it if you open and close it all the time.

I would add that I would look at wider gutter, I used 125mm rectangle profile. water comes offf these metal roofs far quicker than a tiled roof.

What is a cheap immersion?

Spreadsheet 😂😂😂who’s filling that in ? I wear slip on boots because I struggle with shoe laces. I agree with the lpg bit, I would like to avoid all that agro really.

morning people. I have two of these cabins that I’m about to fully strip out and refurbish, aprox 7x6 m one large bedroom en-suite and the rest open plan kitchen diner. I need to work out how to heat them and how to supply hot water to them. there is no town gas on site, but we could use some form of lpg if we had to. no solar available as they are in a wooded area. currently an electric shower and a copper cylinder with immersion heater. I need. 1. Heat in a bedroom/ en-suite 2. heat in an open plan kitchen diner 3. Hot water water shower 4.Hot water basin 5. Hot water kitchen sink insulation is terrible, it will be getting better but not to a good standard, just not enough room or budget. a woodburner could be on the cards for heating but also aesthetic reasons as punters love a woodburner. thoughts people please.

Use a board that can be tiled and skimmed, there’s lots of options, tank it and tile it where it needs tiling and skim the bit that needs painting, just feather the skim off to the tile line. i personally would fully tank behind the tray before fitting, but many would not bother.

And a cleaning cost, after the scaffolding is removed you will be left with a days work to tidy the courtyard and remove all the dust and crap that has fallen through the boards.

Second hand slabs from facebook I laid a patio a couple of years ago, slabs where a £1 each, bang them down on some weak mortar and live with them for a couple of years.

I like roofs to shed the water off the building, box gutters keep the water in board and in my opinion are a recipe for disaster extend the rafters have a facia outside the wall edge and stick a nice looking gutter on it. these details look lovely on paper, but a year after you move in you will never look up there again.

Wall mounted, see them all the time, you can switch to rectangular duct, or the oval one. everything is possible.

Angle grinder with a diamond blade, grind out the bed and lap the membrane in then re point it. I won’t tell anybody if you don’t. 😜

Fit trap to sink, use two 45 bends to realign with floor waste. cut a large trap door 200x200 in cupboard floor, sort the pipework then make a nice cover trim to go over the 200 hole, it’s far easier than trying to cut a 50 mm hole and getting it all to line up. especially if you are using the same monkey knuckle draggers you had to install that pipe.

I used this mob.

Be careful of the oak you choose, anything kiln dried for indoor use like a newel post will do all sorts of weird things when outside in the damp. I might be inclined to go for some oak that has been barn stored also don’t mitre the corners use a joint has a good thickness of timber left once jointed a mitre takes the timber down to thin and it distorts unless serious glue is applied. I would use grey aluminium.

What is this building going to be used for ? why not insulate it from underneath ? you are going to end up with some fairly hefty looking facia and barge boards.

What’s the slip membrane for do you not need the SLC to find its way all around the ufh pipes for good heat transfer, with no big voids.

The primer is for priming up the surface if you are putting the SLC onto another concrete or screed surface. If you are going over a plastic membrane nothing is going to stick to it, your SLC will always be an independent slab on top of the ufh.

depends if they want a biscuit, or how many squares of paper they use.

I don’t go to my mates house and ask for diesel for the return journey. why would I let a visitor plug their car in. im baffled by these ludicrous regs.

Nothing will you need at least an undercoat and two top coats. I even use two undercoats and two top coats.

You start by setting the finished height in a number of areas then barrow in 20-30 barrow fulls and tip into these marked areas, walk up and down on it and push it into all the corners, keep walking on it, it needs to be fully compacted, not open a fluffy. make a flat pad 400mm square level with your finished height mark go to another mark 2-3 m away and make another pad Fill in between these pads and compact use a straight edge, aluminium is best to scrape the in fill down to the top of your pads, fill in low spots and drag again until no air is under the straight edge. complete two strips opposite each other then fill in the big area between these strips and again drag the straight edge over it filling in voids and compacting as you go. after you have completed a 1m wide strip the width of the room you can use a plastic float in a figure of 8 motion to even out the straight edge marks. don’t worry about loose product sitting on top, these will sweep of when dry. continue back for another metre. don’t have too many breaks keep the screed always moist on the last edge you don’t want cold joints. I hope your fit it will kill you if you have not done it before. if it’s ready mixed it will take you half a day.

Add more the bigger your tiles are. a room 1810 wide being tiled with 1200 long tiles will eat tiles and cause lots of waste as the off cut can’t be used in the next row.

Have you been and seen their finished LVT workmanship if not then stop now.

Do you mean why is the insulation silver, it comes like that, it’s a two piece rockwool lined product you put on and then cover the gaps in foil tape.