Russell griffiths

It’s another cheque you will need to write get it designed, get it signed off. install all wiring where you want it, install minimal lights as per agreed plan, get house signed off, install extra lights. it’s just another box ticking waste of time. I had to have my house superimposed onto some pictures taken by a landscape ecology designer to show it wouldn’t upset the 3 people per year that walk down a footpath that is 100m from the house.

As far as I’m aware. from the day you rent it out until the day you sell it you are liable for the CGT that has arisen from any increase in value. so you move out and it’s worth £500,000 you rent it for 5 years and decide to sell, you get it sold for £600,000, so you pay CGT on £100,000 plus you will pay income tax on any money earned from the rental, but you can claim certain expenses as it’s now a rental property and not your principal residence. best to talk to your accountant.

Have you costed in all the aluminium corner trims and base starter trims. they can add up a fair bit. im not sure if the cost estimater on the website costs in wastage, so you need to allow 10-15% wastage. but even if it comes out at £15000, then you can save £5000 doing it yourself with the special trims it’s a fairly straightforward job, but requires lots of setting out correctly.

Is the look of your house relevant I walked around all the neighbours and made a note of the house type and materials used, there where no two the same so we had an argument that it didn’t need to look like any of the others as there wasn’t a precedent for a certain type. ridge height I can see being a problem if everything is a bungalow and you want two storey, but if that isn’t the case then why does everything need to look like a run down cottage. get some ammunition together.

How is that split between labour and materials.

Get a planning consultant on board we spent £4500 on one and if it had been 5 times this price it would have been worth it. the lady that did ours had an answer to ever point the council raised, every time they pointed out something she shot them down. regarding neighbours, we had a lady that said it shouldn’t be built as when we do build it the lorries coming into our site would fall in the lake, utter retards the lot of them.

I think your terminology is a bit mixed up. I think you have a timberframe house, with a brick outer skin, this isn’t cavity construction, but a gap is left between the timber and the bricks leading to it looking like a cavity. are you planning on stripping all the internal plasterboard and upgrading the insulation levels. if this is the case I think a fair few on here would be interested to see the standard of the framing and insulation. I think we can answer this better when that is understood.

If you are running multiple things into this drain sink-washing machine- dishwasher it’s probably better to bring the 110mm up into the room and then reduce down to 50mm. you also don’t need the bottle gulley outside but can go direct to an inspection chamber.

Blown in beads. im sure between us lot on here we can work out how to do it. there’s a lad on here the bought a machine to blow in the cellulose type insulation. your wall area isn’t large, I’m sure it’s doable.

Take the doors and windows out and do it yourself.

If you want it internal y then he should have run a pipe already and a concrete lintel over the top of it where it goes through the walls.

Don’t get caught out with your vat claim or cil self build dispensation. all this depends on who you built it for.

Yes completely following regs. sockets for normal everyday things are set at 450 high, you can then choose to sit any amount of sockets at any height you wish, you might want to hide a low level one , as we have, or you might want one at 1500 high behind a telly. not every socket has to be at 450, just enough to keep within the rules 😉

I’d be more worried that they have fixed close to the edge, with a 140 sole plate they should be 70mm in from the edge its a bit shit to be honest and I would be checking every fixing. I wouldn’t be happy with the sole plate fixed down with plastic plugs either, do you have frame anchors going down into that concrete as well.

I was told to avoid floor sockets, as a change in furniture layout will leave a socket in the middle of the floor, with a bit of planning we have installed low level plugs, just above skirting height, and re wired a standard lamp with a long lead that runs hidden under the sofa, no lead on show and no floor sockets.

A fine from who. the hedge owner would need to prove you killed it and then take you to court over it, very very unlikely to happen, now if it was a large tree with a TPO on it I would say tread carefully. the chances of killing some hazel by excavating near it are very slim. as a side note i would not build any form of rigid wall, ie not block n render, use gabion baskets or sleepers, any form of ground movement will not be noticed in a flexible wall, but make it rigid and render it and your asking for trouble.

Look up the Calder lead guide. as a general rule no single piece of lead should be longer than 1.5m. have you thought of a folded aluminium one, or powder coated steel.

Chuck a 300 square of plywood behind the cladding, but leave a large hole in the centre for a bit of wiggle room when fitting the light.

Won’t you just screw it to the cladding how heavy is this light ??

Who was the bloke who had a wood stove in his workshop with about 3 tonnes of concrete blocks built around it. cannot find the picture. anybody.

What was your build method it baffles me how over here they think 3 is good going.

As Conner said. you won’t be building over it, you will need to move the two inspection chambers outside the new extension. then the only pipework below the extension is your direct feeds to the new chambers. so the drain runs are yours only.

What I want to know from @nod is where he gets his enthusiasm for it all. im 6 years into this project and mine has completely disappeared, one house is nearly finished 😂😂and I’ve got 2 holiday let’s to fully refurbish in the spring. i sometimes wonder if I can be bothered to even start them. 😢

I’ve never used it in a cavity wall so you will need some more details from someone with that scenario just follow the principle that you need to isolate the heat from the floor coming into contact with the cold blocks below the door, and the cold from outside then also damp from coming upwards and from coming inwards if you are having that flush threshold. the pic is different to your buildup, but highlights the two problems, keep the cold from the door and floor

Eps is doing nothing xps 500 or compac foam to form a continuous line under the door. the load exerted down from that door is minimal