Russell griffiths

does that help, the bottom of the rafter is supported on a timber fixed on the inside as the roof tiles in this instance don’t have any rafter tails on show. if this helps you need to do a mock up to see how you want the rafters to finish and how you want the tiles to sit over the brickwork.

It’s going to be hard to explain you need a rafter fixed into the sips panel like you said, the top end of this rafter will fit flat up against the a ledger board that needs fixing to the side of the c————— sod it I will try to find some pictures.

Not really, that’s all a bit wrong are you after building the timber work to support the roof tiles ? if you are then we need a bit of clarity on what you want to achieve will you have a barge board running up the outside of the brickwork, or will you just over sale the tiles and have a cemented fillet, or dry verge. what roof covering is going on this ? will it have a soffit and facia at the lowest point, or just facia. need a sketch reall on what the final goal will be then I can guide you as to how to frame it up.

How does the energy get through 100mm of brickwork, the cavity on the outside of the insulation is generally cold. still baffled. 😂

You shouldn’t put a sharp 90 underground, either install an inspection chamber just before the connection, or a very slow long radius bend. how exactly are you connecting to the sewer, is it a saddle or are you cutting in and installing a junction. a few photos would help with this. and if the storm drain is deeper than the foul then your current pipe will be to low in the ground, you will need to go backwards up the run of pipe and re lay the pipe to the correct fall.

I think picking the correct mortar and pointing method is as important as the brick choice.

What do you think the aluminium layer will do inside a cavity. i personally can’t see it being of any help at all. if this is a new build i would ask some more questions on here and look at all the options for your insulation.

It depends where this trench is. if it’s across a farmers field or through your land then as John said you can do it. if it runs within 1m of the highway you will need a contractor with a streetworks permit, and use the appropriate traffic control. obviously the more rural you are and the less people there are to upset you do whatever you want, just be aware if you are working within a metre of the highway you need to comply.

Take the brickwork down, not the blocks.

You would need to pay privately, it would probably cause so much bad feeling it would be hard to continue with the rest of the build. unless you have some lads that genuinely want to learn how to do things better.

the problem with doing this is you need to get them to agree that it needs fitting correctly and they are happy to learn it was poor, and want to do it better. you have a chance in a million of this happening, and it’s far more likely they will push back and say it’s fine, at that point you need to work out if you can part company and start again.

I’m afraid you are gaining knowledge after you needed it. stop the work now before you end up with a very expensive building that performs like it was built in 1980.

Have you read up on the bloke on here with the extension that just will not get warm, and looked at all the issues he has. read it and get a good grasp of what is right and wrong. pretty painted walls and nicely fitted architrave doesn’t make a good building.

I used a product called knauf omni fit. far nicer to handle than rockwool if installed from underneath.

Is this an extension or a new house. if it’s a new house then stop work now and get this stuff sorted out.

If it’s a large build then definitely look at those vids on YouTube, he’s doing an excellent job on a massive farm barn.

Look up the restoration couple on you tube, your project sounds like theirs, just probably smaller. is this a class Q conversion or something similar.

In your pictures the brickwork is higher than the blocks, they should build the blockwork up, installing ties as they go, the insulation goes onto the blocks with good detail, joints tight and even taped, then the brickwork goes up. poor detail now will lead to poor performance later.

If you are on a journey to become a developer, you would be better off buying quality plots with planning and go from there. buying poor plots with problems is a sure fire way to loads of grief and small profits. look at a plot for two houses as a starter, if you are short on funds then get some financing, don’t buy rubbish because that’s all you can afford.

@G and J if you have bracing walls then I would presume the TF company would install them as part of the structural package, they are not going to risk the integrity of their frame by letting you put them in afterwards. they need to be in before any roof loading and frame sign off and hand over. non structural walls are a different matter.

Sort your insulation and airtightness first, don’t just fit a bigger heat source, or you will be one of the thousands that say they didn’t realise heat pumps cost so much to run.

I would worry that if that’s the quality of the brickwork, then what’s the quality of the insulation fitting and other details. show us the pointed side.

Why didn’t the original developer not put another house on it.

Washing machine hose, fitted to the fitting on the trap under the sink to stop smells coming up.

I always ask myself, why has nobody built on it previously.