Russell griffiths

@willbish please see my amended post.

@scottishjohn you are spot on with your bitumin comments. I have been working all day fretting that I had written the wrong word in my post and nearly came home half way through the day to edit it. So my previous post had said I used a bituminous paint to seal my icf reveals. THIS IS INCORRECT i used a water based waterproof and gas proof paint, it is completely safe on eps whereas bitumen or any solvent based product must not be used. Please check the compatibility of a product before you install it.

What I meant was instal a beam on top of the wall but not imposing a load onto the wall, beam runs front to back, and doesn’t touch the wall. So air gap between wall top plate and beam, cross joists for mezzanine sit on beam not wall, no loads going down all go onto beam which is fitted to front and back walls.

I have given all the reveals 2 counts of solvent free waterproof and gas proof type paint.

Can you chop the height of the wall down and install a timber beam on top of it 5.8 is a big span.

I am just fitting my windows and decided I wanted to avoid any window tape as I thought it looked a right pain, on the advice from NORSKEN windows I have used a system made by TREMCO ILLBRUCK it is a two part process first you use there airtight foam FM330 if I remember correctly, you let this dry and trim it back flush, you then use an air sealing paste that comes in a tube, you squirt this all over the foam just like silicon. However the clever bit is it has a very low viscosity so you get a 20mm wide paint brush and pull it gently down so it spreads all over the foam, you can get your finger in the corners and smooth it out, you can brush it all around the brackets making a complete seal. I am very very very impressed with the product and the reduced cost compared with tape. I am generally a hard arsed very hard to please bloke, but i am seriously impressed with this stuff. I think i have spent £220 on sealing up all my windows, and they are huge, my average window is 2.6 wide by 1.8 high so a fair distance around them.

My stuff that has shrunk is called ECOTHERM. 50mm perfect 70mm terrible.

My exact thoughts art this moment, I would be happy re,trimming to get a square edge back, I just want the supplier to know I’m not happy and send me some free goodies.

£2000 from wunda, supply only, pipes manifold, room stats and all the other bits and bobs. 180m floor area.

I was wondering how you would get cables out from it, I can see how the supply in can run up the cavity, but how do you get cables out without them having to turn a Nasty corner.

Lafarge.

Have you had a building regs drawing done for this? you will probably need to remove everything the previous owner put down unless it is insulated and has a damp proof membrane installed. I would talk to your architect or building control.

This is for the ceiling.

No it’s going in the ceiling, under the rafters all taped to provide vcl as well as insulation. Thanks all I will start moaning and find out what they want to do, I’m prepared to run a saw down the edges to re square it up, but I will want some form of recompense for my time.

Make sure you are talking about opening sizes and not window sizes, as allowing for fitting will leave your lintels without enough bearing.

Tried to take a pic but the reflection from the foil just made them look crap. Seconds, I thought this so I did some subtle phoning around to find out if the manufacturer sold seconds on, The company that delivered the sheets said they never deal in seconds.

Evening all, I have had a load of 70mm pir sheets delivered, and I’m not happy ??? all the long edges seem to have shrunk back, leaving a reasonable depression in the pir material. As im going to want to butt these tightly together and then tape the joins im not thrilled that there will be a 10-12mm gap when you put two sheets together. Now I have thought of a couple of methods to overcome this problem, but why the bloody hell should I. Thought i would see if anybody else had had any rough stuff before I unleash the wife on the company I bought it from. Just as a side thought, the 50mm stuff is perfect.

Have you seen the a frame houses for sale on e bay, buyer to dismantle and remove from a holiday letting site. Massive savings to be had if they fit your plans.

We where required to provide a cemp, we thought it was fairly easy to put together so looked stuff up from the internet, it ended up looking very professional and everything in it we thought was needed. The council refused it as we had no relevant qualifications so we went back to our ecology company who charged us £1200 to produce one, it turned out to be a cut and past document where he missed some very important parts and added bits not relevant to our site, so it was obvious he had cut and pasted and not compiled it properly. The council accepted it immediately. Just pay get it signed off and move on.

With all the talk about screw piles and garden rooms next to trees I thought this would be a hotbed of conversation.

Well done on getting that planning.

Did you expect it to be that exact that each piece wouldn’t be plus or minus 1-2 mm. Mark your corners and work towards the centre, trimming the centre block to fit. Sorry but it’s not the space shuttle plus and minus 1-4 mm per block would be fairly normal with eps. If building in icf you start at the corners and have a straight or common joint that you cut to relax the difference in block sizes. Its just the same with laying bricks or blocks, the mortar will allow adjustments, being youhave no mortar you trim to fit.

There has been a bit of chat lately about garden buildings, I’m watching this so thought I would share it.

Oh god, don’t. I’m having some serious loss of sleep after fitting all our windows this week.

Evening all has anybody used a company called. Underfloor heating supplies, based in Leicestershire. Just looking for a bit of feedback. Ta very much.