Russell griffiths

@PeterW this is all coming from the hep 2 O and hot return saga, when we all discussed that hep was ok on a hot return as it’s blended down and is run around the pipe work at a lower temperature, that’s all good, but are we going to run into problems with shower valves wanting a higher input temp. Might need to wait for @Nickfromwales to sober up to get some input.

Cor some of that Perrin stuff is expensive??

Looking at the one @Onoff mentioned I started to read up on the operating Manuel it states in the manual that the valve requires 60 degree water input, now as far as I’m aware my hot will be getting blended down before it reaches the shower valves. Any thoughts anybody. @Nickfromwales And @PeterW

So like most things in life I seam to be going full circle on choices so im looking for recommendations for quality shower valves, must be fully concealed and good build and maintainability. Cheers. Bored from bored town.

Is that a hotel ?

Same as, with a manifold set up 3 separate cold feeds into bathroom.

@Mr Punter if you have a separate feed to the toilet this shouldn’t be a problem.

What’s people’s thoughts on shower valves that do not have a thermostatic mixer built in. My last plase late we had 3 showers all with just mixing valves but no thermostatic control on them. My thoughts are there are less parts to go wrong, also with less parts they are cheaper i like the idea of cheaper and would like less bits to go wrong. Anybody, got any thoughts.

Have you been on the sherry @joe90 if you reduce the soffit size then surely the length of the roof from ridge to facia will decrease, so the facia gets taller, but the roof gets shorter. But knowing @Onoff maybe he’s thinking of installing a flux capacitor in the void or something.

Am I missing something if you reduce the soffit size, will you not have to change the roof above ??

Why the 9mm osb, I don’t see what it adds. How are you planning on providing an air tight layer, you will need to do something either wet plaster, or a parge coat, or dot and dab done correctly or a vapour control layer you need to do something or your just building a leaky sieve. So really you need to supply something.

So between all the brain power of the forum, if I choose the towel rails I want we will come up with a liquid to fill them and an element to heat them.

Not converting an existing one , but water powered ones are more readily available in more sizes and styles. So im thinking are they all manufactured as a shell and then the element added to just a few as the majority are water powered.

I don’t know, I thought it was a type of oil. When I swapped out a blown element, it was definitely an oily substance.

Happy Christmas peeps. Im looking for towel rails at the moment and most of what I like are water based and run off the heating system, I’m looking for electric ones, now I have seen various heating elements that are used in electric rails. Question is, are these elements compatible with most towel rails and what is the liquid that is inside the rails. Anybody done this or know the score. Ta very much.

a bit like this with a little valley at the Bach.

That’s about as accurate as I get mate, slap it up, looks ok from my house.

still no presents.

bored waiting for present time.

No valley needed you just move the configuration you have there over, so those two hip ends move over to the corner of the extension. If you want a loft conversion you change the hip end for a gable end so it gives you more room in the loft.

Understanding air tightness is something you can work out with a couple of evenings reading. I think you will need to go through a few architects before you find one who understands it as much as you do.

I cannot see it on an I pad.

Have you thought of another house on there.

You should really have a decoupling Mat under them. It’s really about differential movement solid screed expanding and contracting as it warms and cools with yours you probably have enough different layers to accommodate a bit of movement in the wooden layers. In the scheme of things £5-6-7 hundred quid an the mat is probably good insurance.

Have you thought about a fibreglass angle under the windows, bolted to the brickwork. Those side brackets will do next to nothing in supporting the load.