Russell griffiths

The problem with all these comparisons is you are comparing the prices from the builders merchants if buying EPS you can deal with the manufacturer, pir manufactures won’t deal with you. I got my EPS100 at a third of the price of pir.

No not really they said diluted contract Matt goes chalky as it has a cheap base with lots of cheap filler products as a bulking agent. once the walls are all sealed up you can use the good gear straight on by diluting the first coat a bit to thin it as they are generally very thick. because of the thickness they don’t suck in well but sit on top, and because of the scrubbable nature stuff doesn’t stick well to the surface so the underside doesn’t stick well to the coat below. I phoned a couple of technical help lines and they all said the only people using contract Matt are the mass house builders.

As above use what the professionals use, a 12-14 inch roller on a frame, so fixed both ends, not a roller on a handle that you can’t put even pressure on.

That’s sort of what the paint manufacturer say, just use the top coat diluted as a primer contract Matt is just for really cheap low spec jobs.

Same here, I thought I had no problems until I scratched a bit of wall, then discovered it wasn’t really stuck on to the mist coat very well, did some research and found the thick non porous anti scuff paint doesn’t really like the chalky contract Matt. if you watch all the YouTube stuff and ask 100 painters 80 will say they still use contract Matt, but the other 20 have been to sort out a new set of problems that are just coming to light with the newer scrubbable paints.

Work backwards look at your finish paint, then read up on the primer / undercoat for that paint. do not rely on a mist coat of watered down cheap arse contract Matt everyone does this, but it’s not 1980 anymore, the top coat anti scuff Matt paints don’t like sticking to it, there are lots of videos on problem jobs. don’t put £100 a tin top coat over £10 a tin primer. I’ve got a couple of horror walls that might have to go back to bare plaster.

Water works with gravity everything travels downwards ( apart from a bit of capillary action ) so lap everything downwards, just sit and look, pretend your a water droplet where will you get trapped, how would you run under that sole plate and into the house. lap everything down and out.

You need to consider the temperature for pointing, needs to be 5 degrees and rising for the duration that it will take to dry. fix the problem of water hitting the wall first and the pointing can be done in April.

That’s your problem fix that and let the wall dry out, then re point it in the spring.

What’s that black plastic pipe. zoom the picture out.

I did exactly the same floor screed down boards on walls big fat squirt of foam all around entire house let it cure and cut flush fit skirting. don’t be buying one tin, get a box of 12 at a time and use it everywhere.

Are you sure, you have a mixture of two floors there, you wouldn’t put block n beam in then an insulated raft on top. are you sure it’s not just insulation on top of block n beam then screed. post a drawing up. if your keen on an insulated raft then look for a SE that specifically works on them regularly.

If you spray it your still supposed to back roll over it to get the correct finish, straight from a sprayer is too perfect.

Stick your hand down it and yank out that black thing, I think it comes out.

So as they swing out and along they put a load on the edge in a sort of pulling motion ? is that what you mean.

I’ve just re read your original post, I thought you were proposing to build a beam 178mm high, which I based my answer on, but looking again your saying plate both sides in ply 600mm high. Now that would work. I would want to extend the plywood onto both side walls, not finish the ends level with the sides of the opening.

You won’t be spanning four metres with timber alone. with that wall above it will definitely deflect too much. steel flitch beams or some sort of steel beam with insulation and timber all sandwiched together.

What am I missing here. I see no need to fireproof the framing, you wouldn’t fire proof the frame of a house, so why a garage. timberframe as the structural part, steel sheets on the outside as non flammable exterior, then if you wanted you could put cement sheets on the the inside. but being as it’s in jock land what do they want.

What score do they say they will achieve with the airtightness test.

Nope. most of those hangers rely on having brick work above them to secure them to the wall. you need to sketch up what you think your verge detail will be, you say no soffit but you will have a small drip edge coming down from your roof finish. This needs to be on the outside of the render. I think Nick mentioned oversailing the top cord of the joists. this is an easy way of not having to fit a rim board/ pole plate. fit a wall plate cut at an angle then top hang the rafters/ joists. Infill between them with noggins then sail over your ply / osb, then roof trim will hang down and cover the ends of the rafters and ply. get your crayons out and sketch up what you want it to look like.

I’ve had a few of these, fairly straightforward to put up with one helper.

Steel frame agricultural barn type thing. steel c sections bolt to the slab, clad on the outside so non flammable construction, insulation on the inside and then osb clad on the inside. im not sure of any regs for a garage apart from fire regulations close to other properties. as far as I’m aware there are very few regs for a garage. I would get the detailed drawings from the agricultural barn company and send that to the council.

Why would you build a permanent structure on land that is leased, unless you have a long lease. Does your lease state that you have to put the structure back to the state it was before you built, meaning you will need to remove your garage. depending on what you want to put in the garage maybe a shipping container or pre fabricated sectional garage would be better.

Does it need filling.

Remember if you take this up In block work you need to treat it like a gable wall. so angled ties at ceiling joists level, then more ties at rafter level. the ties stop the wall bowing out and restrain the ceiling and roof rafters, it all works together. with the icf walls you have done there wasn’t such a need as the structure is very rigid and stiff on its own, a block cavity wall can be a bit wobbly.