Russell griffiths

You have two choices break it out and re do it, or leave it alone, there is nothing remedial you can do. As said above, cover with wet hessian next time or polythene sheet.

Insurance wise you are talking about two different things. Standard construction satisfies the property insurance, for example the built structure and how it stands up. Contents insurance is totally different, try to get insurance on an outbuilding not connected to your house, I have found previously it very hard to get cover over £2000, and almost impossible to get cover for a non brick construction.

I would build it on an insulated raft and use icf blocks for the walls. I wouldn’t entertain a wooden structure if your thinking of welding and grinding. Sips panels will also be very poor at keeping any noise you make inside.

Have you looked at tool insurance, I know that many insurers will not insure tools over £2000 value unless in a brick built building.

Toughened, and laminated if it is to stop you falling. Toughened only if it is to stop you getting cut.

Crushed concrete, compacted with the digger.

You need to get your terminology correct, I believe that if you use the insulated In fill panels then you need a structural concrete topping. This is not screed, screed has very little strength. Refer to the floor manufacturers guidelines.

Yes, it’s a bit of a pain and one reason I didn’t do it, because I’m building in icf I needed to screw lots of props into the floor to support the walls which I was unhappy doing with the ufh pipes there. However another forum member did it and used boards on top of his concrete to screw his braces into. If you go timberframe the erection team need to know that they cannot screw anything into the floor. One lad on here had a very nasty surprise when his team drilled multiple holes in his floor.

perfect, what else did you expect. ??

Nope.beams, infilled with insulated blocks, insulation board, mesh, ufh pipes, concrete topping , not screed. I would have done this but but it was a couple of grand dearer, being that insulation was dear and blocks cheap. Funny how its changed.

Spot on, mine was 80mm.

So if you had clipped your pipes into rails you wouldn’t be wasting your time thinking of this. ?? Are you sure on your weight calculation for the screed, mine weighed something like 144kg per m.

So bc came today, I fired a load of questions at him. He stated 770mm clear opening is what he is after.

Can you not sark the roof Scottish style, 100x25 all over with 3mm gaps between boards. Fitting jack rafters between trusses is just insane. You might as well take the whole roof off and move the trusses along and buy a couple of extras. 3-4 packs of 100x25 and a nail gun, be all on in a couple of days.

I did that but the door supplier thinks clear opening can be 775mm. Bco here today so I will ask him and report back. Wish me luck, drain inspection today.

Is that not very expensive.

No, what for. Build another cupboard for Henry.

You do worry about some little things, chill out Rodney. I bet you any money you like the bottom brick/ concrete or whatever is not level, the fitters will put the door up on packers to get it level. You just need to mark the exact height you want it and tell them to lift it to that height. TBH your opening is not big enough, should be more clearance above to allow for deflection.

That’s cool then, my 900 doors are coming down to 812 clear openings. I will double check with bco.

That’s exactly right, but the clear openings can change depending on door thickness and hinge layout. So a 75mm solidcore door will have a larger opening than a 90mm thick passive spec one.

If you allow more height in your build up you can use a cheaper insulation design it in now. If I was doing mine again I would have 250mm of eps. I have 200mm now. It’s cheap as chips compared to pir insulation. Buy direct from the factory, eps 100 not the flimsy stuff you find in wickes.

Also to add to this, how does actual opening size change on an internal door. Ive gone for all doors inside at 838mm what clear size are we meant to have ??

Morning all. Just getting some drawings for front and back doors, now although I thought the door openings where large enough, when the door swings back it decreases the actual opening size. Do we know now what is the actual opening size needed for disabled access.

You normally put a string line from front to back, pull it tight and it will show you which rafters stick out the most. If you have a whopper that sticks out loads trim it off, if you have a few that are short then shim these out. You can fit your backing facia ply with nails and nails and then tap it out until straight, this will leave a gap which shows you the size of shim needed, add shim and a blob of no nails to stop it slipping. imagine your line on the end and trim accordingly.

Depends what look you want, I have purposely clad over my frames to make the frames look less bulky. 35mm showing all around instead of 70.