RichS

On the second, line drawing, what is the 50mm, that is shown on the front view at each side and the end view on the front, indicating?. Is this the radius line?? Cant quite figure it out because if that's what it's meant to be the drawer line should also wrap around!!. If so you can measure what you have to compare. As you've noted you still have an 11mm difference in length to overcome.

If you like them, fit them.

How will you get it through the roof? The guttering is at the lowest point of the pitch and below wall plate level. Can't you just drop it into a drain and direct that into the tank??

So, while I'm still jumping through hoops trying to get conditions discharged and other assorted issues I have started on the services. I have just had the gas installed as far as the remote meter box and am currently trying to negotiate a price for the electric. My question is regarding the telecoms wiring. I know it goes in grey ducting and from what I gather this is generally provided free by Open Reach, if not I have another possible source. From what I read on the Open Reach web site: For all Single Dwelling Units (SDU) duct must be terminated on the external surface of the property• The duct termination point shall be in a location that will allow unrestricted access for any future maintenance activity. Is this still applicable or has anyone managed to just bring the ducting up through the slab directly into the dwelling, I don't envisage using BT as the provider.

As JSH says, "the full weekend" is nowhere near long enough to let the plaster dry properly.

IF your local council imposes one.

What do people recommend for service ductings. I know that gas has to be in perforated yellow, and where I am at least electric has to be in black suitably embossed. Water is blue. But do people bother getting green for TV and grey for telecomms or do you just stick those two in a length of black which seems to be easier to come by.

£79.00 per cubic metre delivered. £45.00 per cubic metre if you collect, though you won't do that for much over 1m³, and then only with a decent trailer or pickup. £68.00 per hour for the wagon if it's on site for more than 45 minutes.

Personally I'd go with 1 or 3. I'd probably do 3 but not bother with the additional concrete. Deffo not 2.

Ah, ok, thanks. I guess the wheelchair situation is one we should all consider. Even if it's not applicable now you never know what's around the corner.

Thanks for the reply's Ideally I would like a level garage floor, but by the same token I like the idea of no step between the house/garage. My thinking was that at 1/170 the fall would not be noticeable within the garage but would keep BC happy. @le-cerveau How do you find your floor @ 1/100, can you feel the fall when in the garage?, I hope and suspect not. @Russell griffiths I'd guess your way would also keep BC happy as fundamentally you have the 100mm step but for me a 1m ramp would just get in the way, in that situation I'd rather just have a step.

Exactly my thoughts

Just been checking the UK regs regarding integral garage floors where the garage has an adjoining door into the habitable areas. I thought the regs stated that a 100mm step down into the garage was required but now find that this has been amended, presumably for access issues, to either a 100mm step down OR garage floor to be laid with fall away from door. What it doesn't say is what fall is recommended. Has anyone come across this and what was your solution?? I quite like the idea of no step down but don't want a garage where the floor is that far out of level that things with wheels want to move on their own. My garage will have an internal length of 8.5m, if I put a 50mm difference in level from adjoining door to garage exit door that gives a fall ratio of 1/170. I think that would work but would be interested to hear if anyone else has any experience or advice on this one.

? £198 , delivery AND collection, inclusive here

Well I'd guess that the fact you're even considering it means you feel fairly confident. As long as you take your time and make sure you set out the bottom course correctly then it shouldn't be a problem, especially with no valleys etc.

I'd say that's a load of crap. The volume is what the volume is and regardless of where it's mixed it will still only hold the same.

@Alexphd1 Thanks for the confirmation. I've just sent them an email to get things rolling.

@Triassic Thanks for that, they were who I was going to use, just wondered if you'd found anyone better.

I tried Styrene.biz and basically, after lots of delays, they said they were too busy. They then proceeded to give me the number for Future Found!!

@Triassic, Mind if I ask who did your design for you. Did you use Tanner or some other?? Thanks. I have been shopping around trying to find a different supplier to Kore but quite frankly I'm having very little success. I've tried Isolohr and Future Found but the quotes are not good, and the time it took to get a quote from Isolohr would have ruled them out regardless.

Surely this would be site specific.

I like the system @MikeSharp01 has mentioned, and was also caught out by what @Temp has said. My first attempt was built on the cheap, I extended the columns on a 4" wall and infilled with taper edge boards. Come the first storm of winter and the lot ended up on the public footpath, very luckily not hitting anyone or anything. I demolished all the wall and rebuilt in 9", hollow columns with rebar in the centre and then filled with concrete. Also the boarding is doubled up in a hit and miss configuration so that the wind can get through but gives complete privacy.

Don't rest the panel on the wall, leave a small gap so water isn't trapped and constantly soaking back into the timber.

Just on @Triassic idea, has anyone else done this??

Hmmmm, an interesting idea. Have you done any spade work into the costings of doing this?? Are the savings made worthwhile?