RichS

I have an Elu flip saw, must have had it at least 20 years, probably more, and it still works fine. Can be used as a rip or a crosscut so very handy. I think Elu may have been taken over by DeWalt now but if the quality is still the same certainly one worth looking at.

I assume you are in Scotland so this may not be appropriate for you but can you not just terminate the s&v in the bathroom and fit a durgo valve. English regs H1-1.33 seem to suggest this is acceptable and is exactly what I am intending to do, unless I'm reading things wrong.

Surely if what you are achieving with your last sketch is what the SE is asking for there is no problem. As long as the ground at that depth is solid enough to take it then why bother digging out another 300mm?

Thanks for that Fallingditch I have just been comparing the spec sheets for the 838 & 938. The only differences I can see are the obvious weight/dimension and the maximum electrical power consumption differs by 20w. The flow rate is the same for both boilers. So it looks to me that if you forego the "instant" hot water element you get a smaller boiler that should still run two showers simultaneously. Can anyone see ant flaws in my thinking??

So what is the definition of low flow and high flow????

A question for Nick here I think I've been trawling through old posts as I remembered a certain model boiler being recommended. Turns out it was the EcoTec 938 (38kw). Looking at Vaillants web site that is one hell of a chunk of boiler, 60kg and 600mm projection. I assume these specs come from the fact that it has the "reservoir" of stored hot water. Would I be correct therefore in assuming that the 838 is basically the same boiler but considerably lighter/smaller because it lacks this facility. And if so what are your thoughts on the 838??? Thanks for any enlightenment.

Thanks Jeremy and Nick, much appreciated, and even better that there was no conflict in the reply's The good news also is it makes installation a whole lot less painful. Is there any one Vaillant combi that stands out from the rest??

Can't decide what would be the better system to install. There is generally just me and the wife at home nowadays, we both shower on a morning and evening.We both hope to be packing in work once the new build is sorted / finances allow so will be home most of the time. We have lived with a combi-boiler for about the last 30 years, not the same one , but are not really impressed with either the flow rates available nor the temperature of the water, and the current boiler is a decent sized thing. So my query is "which system to go for". I'm sure there are pro's and cons for each but what is the experience of the forum on this question.

Why not use electric underfloor heating in the bathroom and en-suite along with electric towel rails. That's the option I'm thinking of along with MVHR

Surely that would be covered under the distance selling regulations or whatever it's called now.

Thanks for all the feedback re, my question. I have done some internet researching and it would appear that, as yet, my LA is not imposing a CIL charge. Happy days

So, my planning approval states, in a section under the heading of:- PUBLIC OPEN SPACE There is no requirement for a financial contribution towards open space for a development of this size. Is that my get out of jail free card or is that referring to something else and not CIL???

Ah, right, I see. In that case if you have to insert them into the footings after pouring you would need to do it whilst the concrete is still fairly wet in order to be able to consolidate the bars into the foundations, but not when it's so wet that the bars fall over/sink. The only other alternative that I can think of is suspend the bars to the required depth, but that would be a pain in the arse job.

Hi Vijay, Any reinforcing bars should be tied into the footings before any concrete is poured. If you were to try pushing them in afterwards they would simply displace the concrete and not be held securely.

So, I was decided upon ICF as my shell. I then thought to use SIP panels for the roof. I sent a request to a few SIP suppliers re. the roof and invariably a couple have tried to get the whole job. So what are the feelings / knowledge of ICF v SIP. Having read some old threads on ebuild it seems that SIP have a considerable problem with cold bridging. Thoughts please

I'm with you on the 100k house programme. Far more relevant to mos of us.

Personally I would go on ebay and look at Paslode nail guns. There are quite a number of 1st and 2nd fix guns up for auction at a much reduced price. Very good guns.

Don't know where you would find any off the shelf but an engineering company should be able to fold you a piece of aluminium and then just get it sprayed the correct RAL colour. PS, What's the RSJ for, a hoist point???

At what size??? I've just been through Part F and can't find any mention of garage ventilation in the English regs

Ok, can see your point on this. So does anyone know where this air vent is mentioned in the regs please?? Presumably somewhere in Part F.

Thanks for the input. Just done a bit of working out and even it I only put approx 0.6 degree fall onto a floor slab of 8.7m it will still be a differential of 87mm. I may as well just go with the 100mm step and a level floor. Does anyone know where the air vent to garage gets a mention in building regs, English version?? Edit Thinking about it a bit more. The build will be in ICF with a render finish and so I don't want to put in an air grate. If I was to put in an extract from the MVHR unit surely that would satisfy building regs.

Thanks for the replies. Yes, I know the adjoining door has to be a fire door. I hadn't picked up on the air vent so will look into that. As for gradient I was thinking more of a 2 degree at most, with a 10 degree I have visions of jet washers / compressors etc etc all rolling out every time I open the garage door

So as I understand the building regs, with an integrated garage there has to be either a 100mm step down from house to garage, or a level access with the garage floor sloping away from the garage/house access. Does anyone know what is the minimum gradient for the slope. It doesn't seem to get a mention anywhere.

Agree with Nick. Ply is generally available in 10' x 5' from the right places.

I know it's a bit late now but when you had to enlarge the holes in the bath, if you'd made a jig the same as the piece of ply you've put underneath, you could have clamped that onto the top of the bath and then no danger of the hole cutter slipping.