RichS

No, as long as they are securely fixed it won't matter a jot. Timber sizes given are always nominal, 195 x 45 is normal for a 200 x 50. Likewise 100 x 50 will be 95 x 45.

What sort of roof are you putting on?, cut, truss etc

Must be a rough area, the local kids have been at it already with the graffiti Seriously though that looks great after all the troubles you've been through. As said, get the roof on and something blocking the holes, even if not the proper windows, and then at least your watertight.

I would have imagined a cherry picker would be easier as the boards are always at the same height relatively. Is it a case of the length that makes it more awkward??.

So the digger man started today. The existing MOT1 hardcore that I mentioned earlier, I am digging down 150mm deeper than required and then going to spread this MOT1 to form a sub-base for the 30-50 clean. The slab will still end up with the 300mm of clean as required but sat on a MOT1 sub base. Just to re-ask a question that no one took up on, has anyone used hard chalk for their hardcore??

Hi @PeterStarck, Thanks for that, I assume you mean 5mm granite fines??

And another question I've just spoken with two local quarries. The first one is charging just over £15 + VAT per ton for 40mm washed limestone, the other is charging just under £10 + VAT per ton for 40mm washed hard chalk. Obviously the latter is the favourite but is hard chalk acceptable??

Half the area of what will be the new house footprint is where I have just knocked down my original garage. This area already has a 300mm layer of 40mm down MOT1. Obviously with the price of hardcore I am reluctant to just dig this out and skip it. What are the views on using this as a base layer over the complete area and then topping it up with 20-40 clean. Or alternatively trying to mix this material in with 20-40 clean so you end up with a hybrid mix.

I'm looking for quotes, other than the silly answers I got from Network Rail, for hardcore. Hilliard has specified 30-50 dia. so I'm assuming that I just want clean with no fines, would anyone agree with this assumption.

Ha ha, Touche

2 x 45

Thanks for the replies folks. It seems to me, having read Jeremy's links, that lack of electricity connected would make it none council taxable ??. I appreciate that plenty of people live off grid and still pay CT but their houses have been designed to be this way and they probably have another source of electricity, i.e wind / solar etc. As stated earlier this is a potential problem for the future but it's nice to have an idea of which way to go.

I won't have one of those, mains drains here

Which services, or lack of, prevents the onset of council tax. I believe if a dwelling doesn't have potable water then council tax is not applied. Does the same go for electricity. I am starting digging out this week so I know this problem lies a long way ahead in the future but I would like to get my water supply sorted out as I know this can be quite long winded. I already have mains gas from the road to my cabinet, no meter installed so not usable at the moment, and I have mains electric from the road to my cabinet, again no meters connected so again unusable. Would the lack of meters on these two services, or only one of them, prevent the council from imposing council tax.

Needles But get your rsj's between the acrows before you install them.

So i sent Network Rail an email politely refusing their quote and stating that it was far too high. I received a reply today saying that yes, they thought it seemed high as well so they had re-calculated it. The new price came in, delivered, at £32.45 + VAT per ton, so my new quote for 60 tons was £3926.45 + VAT (sic) It really makes you wonder doesn't it.

Why not fit a permanent riving knife behind the blade with a guard attached loosely so that it flips up as you push the timber through. I have an Elu flip saw that is at least 20 years + old and that's a similar system. I do sometimes use it without the riving knife and guard in place if just forming grooves etc. but at least it gives the option

Looks like it floor mounted to me but the wall isn't plumb or the floors not level. Either option it's not a 90 deg junction and that's causing the problem.

I;ve just got a quote from Network Rail for recycled 20/40 granite for my base. 60 tons came in at just short of £6000.00 + VAT, so as good as £100 per ton. Perhaps I'll have to pass on that one. To be fair it was going to be a round trip of approx 250 miles from the nearest depot to me that has any so I'd imagine most of that cost was in transport. So if anyone knows a sensible supplier in the Yorkshire area I'm all ears.

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/d20/Plumbing+Consumables/sd2711/Cramer+China+and+Bath+Rubber/p93933 Wife uses one of these on our kitchen sink.

As far as I'm aware the only time limit it that the build must commence within 3 years. You can then spend the rest of your life trying to complete it.

For the levels I'd just find my AOD, you can get that near enough off OS maps, and then take a few level on site, jot them down on a drawing and submit. If your planning dept.is anything like mine this is just a desk top excercise that someone feels like asking for and the levels will never be checked.

On an extension I built some years ago I had a similar problem and I just used @Oz07 suggestion re. the backdrop. BCO actually OK'd the backdrop within the manhole chamber in order to save lots of unsafe, deep digging. Just had to put a rodding access within the chamber. Piece of cake.

I'd certainly go tor the rest bend option. A vertical drop into a T will have far too much potential for blocking and I don't think meet regs.

I'd put the facia and gutter brackets on first, makes life a lot easier.