RichS

A planning officer unhelpful and non committal, i really find that hard to believe

Vijay, I think you've got this the wrong way round. If you've got 1:40 then 1:80 is already available, i.e. a lot less fall. If you overdo the fall then the liquids disappear too quickly and leave the solids sat in the pipe, that's why @PeterW suggests 1:80

I'd tend to go with that option, but don't overdo the fall. My current garage is approx 9m x 5m with a level floor. Even if you bring in a car in winter that is snow covered by the time the snow has melted you only end up with a bit of water pooling underneath. This can soon be mopped up / swept out the next day if it's a problem.

The problem with that is you would have to put falls into the slab to direct it to the drain.

I too will have an integral garage. My thinking is that this door will also need to be airtight as it will form part of "the envelope" because a garage roller or whatever door certainly won't be airtight. If an integral garage gets broken into the police deal with it as burglary, if a detached garage gets broken into they deal with it as criminal damage.

Iv'e been buying the 6mm rolls from Srewfix, I really can't imagine that it will snap. Edit to add, I've just looked at your link, I've been getting robbed

It's a sorry state of affairs but this is exactly what I would expect from an insurance company, any insurance company on any type of policy. They simply are not in business to give back money for any reason whatsoever if they can possibly avoid it, and it seems they can always find a reason to avoid it.

Hmmm thanks, your right, not what I wanted to hear I will do as said above and wait 'till I have my BC Inspector sorted and see what we come up with.

Thanks for the replies, the only problem is that I am the ground works contractor, as I am also everything else that goes along with this self build malarky So we don't think there is actually a definitive answer?? I can't find anything in the BR (England) that answers my own question. Suppose I'll have to wait 'till I appoint my BC inspector and run it past them.

I will be building my house in what is currently my garden. The drainage is a combined system which I know needs an attenuation tank etc. My SE who designed the drainage has shown a number of inspection chambers which discharge into a manhole within the new properties boundary which then discharges into the existing manhole of my current dwelling. As the drainage to the new dwelling is only serving one property it is not classed as a sewer according to BR. So do I actually need to build a manhole (i.e. brick or large (expensive) plastic) as opposed to simply fitting a 450mm inspection chamber on the new plot which then discharges into the existing manhole. My SE drawing says I do but I suspect there is a lot of "cut and paste" gone into it.

Is this a belt and braces scenario?? Surely if re-bar was required at the join this would have been embedded in the 1st pour.

Could you not build a "cupboard" and put all the meters in remote cabinets just inside the boundary. You can then run the cabling/gas pipe to where it suits best. Where I am the meters have got to be able to be accessed without entry to the dwelling, so certainly no inside meters, may well be different for your area though.

The sealant around the base is your problem I think. This should be left sealant free to allow any water that gets into the framework to escape into the shower tray, not go the other way.

Usually one each side of your head.

At the stage you're at now I would fit the flooring before the casing, just make sure to cover it well when the casings are being fitted.

Another UFH question. How do you determine what the pipe centres should be, i.e 200mm / 150mm??? In a past life I used to use a heat loss calc programme from Stelrad, Stars I think it was called, to work out radiator sizes needed. Quite simple, after data input it told you the output required for each room and I just sourced the radiator size to suit. I know it's got to be similar for UFH but how do you calculate the heat output, is there some sort of "x amount per linear metre" figure.

900mm x 1000mm, how does that work then, does the spray not come over the top of it??? Just re-read your post. If you fitted a bar I think maybe it's a typo, or my brain hasn't woken up yet

Even better

That's a yes then ? Cheers Nick

When I eventually get started with this build of mine I intend to have wet ufh on the ground floor and also in the master bedroom on the first floor as this is above an unheated garage. I am struggling to find somewhere for the manifold on the ground floor. Is it feasible to place one manifold on the first floor to run all the circuits. I have figured out a route for the pipework to get up there and the manifold would also be fairly central. I appreciate it will use up approx 6.0m of the circuit pipework but I don't think I will have any circuits with which that would be an issue.

Just a quick question as I know nothing about EV's and their charging systems. If you park in a public car park and plug in your EV using your own lead, is it possible for the local low lifes to disconnect it (for fun) / pinch the lead etc or are they somehow locked in to both the vehicle and the charge point?

Hi @le-cerveau. Just had a look at Econekt site. It mentions that it pours it's floor slabs at 250mm, is that correct?? Seems a bit like overkill to me but perhaps there is some reason.

That may be the case, but I very much doubt that any building is actually built to such tight tolerances that it can't take a mill or two difference.

Thanks Vijay, I think there's only the two of us using ICF

A question for anyone who has used an insulated foundation and then built in ICF. I assume, as I haven't got my foundation design drawings yet, that the insulated foundation will have 100mm wide perimeter upstand, but Polarwall use an 80/150/80mm construction. So where the wall meets the slab there will be a 20mm difference in the external wall line. How have people overcome this obstacle??