Nestor

I D4 glued and screwed 22mm Caberdek boards down, all of them. The glue is excellent. I used solid timbers at 400 centres with the longest being only 4 metres. I did not use joist hangers as they sit on the ground floor walls. Really solid first floor. No squeaks or bounce.

@Nickfromwales We do have 3 levels even though the lower ground is only a metre below the entrance ground floor level. LG is 84 sqm, GF is 114 sqm. FF is 84 sqm. 2 manifolds were going to cover the LG and GF. 1 manifold for FF. What spacing do you recommend for pipes. GF is all in screed with timber floor boards and FF is diffuser with timber floor boards.

Thanks @PeterW I will ask for clarification.

@Alexphd1 I am surprised NH are using 14mm. Wunda use 16mm MLC Pert/AI/Pert Pipe.

@Nickfromwales Thanks Nick for picking this up. I have enclosed the item lists. Both have 3 x Manifolds. Nuheat 8,5,7. 1 x pump. Wunda 6,11,4. 3 x pump. Nuheat Items.pdf Wunda.pdf

Quick question, One supplier has specified 1 x Wilo Para RS25/6 pump and another supplier 3 x Grundfos 22kW. 150sqm on the ground floor and 65sqm 1st floor. Your thoughts appreciated. Thanks.

@Nickfromwales Thanks Nick, I am haggling with Nuheat to supply kit and thought I should find an alternative. Getting there....

Can anyone recommend a UFH suppliers for new build as some of the quotes for supply and fit are a bit OTT. Screed on ground floor and first floor floating with diffuser plates. Thank you

You are welcome to visit. I am near Buckfastleigh, South Devon. Send me a PM when ready.

@DavidFrancis Hi David, Yes, the frame is 150x47 filled with 140mm Rockwool slab, then 75x47 horizontals using 120x5 screws and filled with 70mm Rockwool and finally the 50x47 verticals and filled with 50mm Rockwool. Once OSB, batten and plasterboard are fiited it does project over the sole plate into the room. The celotex fits tight underneath and UFH and screed on top of that. It might well be very heavy but it is a very solid wall. This wall build up was something I could physically achieve myself but you don't need all these layers to satisfy building regs. On the exterior of the frame is a 40mm Pavatherm board then batten, counter batten and cladding. The roof build up was 200mm rafters, 2 x 100mm Rockwool. On top 70mm horizontals, 70mm Rockwool and Pavatherm on top of those. If you go back through the blog the photographs might help. Do ask if you need more info.

I would recommend what @ProDave suggests if possible. We have supporting ridge beam for 1st floor bedrooms ( 2 x 6m glulam) and main living area (Steel, 10.5m spliced).

Well I am not alone with window issues, the suppliers and fitters produced really good drawings which the fitters just ignored and some cills will not fit under the window cill drip edge. Some damage on installation with one frame having crow bars marks. The glass is a major issue. The suppliers initially said thats standard, then said they would replace 2 windows and now in conversation with Kastrup to replace 7. The Internorm slider is fine apart from some tiny frame damage on installation. Its very slow to being resolved so wondering if someone can give me some legal advice how I might pursue the matter.

@DavidFrancis Throughout the build I have used screws, the initial frame I used Timco waferheads then Goldscrews for everything else.

@DavidFrancis I have enclosed a drawing of our wall build up. (Hand drawn) Lots of layers. I made the frame myself. Initial frame was 140mm, then fixed 70mm horizontals and finally 50mm verticals at 600 centres to fit the OSB. The GRP roof I fitted myself. Have done one before but still find the whole process a bit of a pain, no matter how organised with multiple buckets, tools, latex gloves, cut matting it is still a messy affair and the conditions have to be dry but the end result is watertight. EPDM is an alternative I will look at next time. Floor, Wall, Roof Build up Jan 2018..pdf

6 month update. Started fitting ducting for the MVHR, my wall build is 3 layers, 140mm, 70mm and 50mm so the ducting fitted well (luck) within the walls. Just need to uncoil the 50m lengths and start dragging it through the build. Then I added the final 50mm timber and insulation before I started the OSB. It took about 2 months to fit about 150 boards, the vapour barrier, double sided tape, airtight tape, it was quite a challenge especially the vaulted ceilings. For the flat roof, fitted the Velux Rooflights then GRP, about 35sqm, 2 layers. Just need to be very organised and keep all tools and materials clean. I might put some Sedum on at a later date. Had some windows and doors delivered and fitted. Kastrup and Internorm. The whole experience disappointing so far. Most of the Kastrup need replacing due to roller marks on glass. Fitting below average. Finally the Tata SSR. Took me ages to set out but once the eaves and verge square it goes on well. 3 roofs to fit. Now half way through the second roof with 7 Velux which fitted well though very heavy, the soft wood frames very prone to damage if not protected. Working out how the EDW flashing kit works around the SSR takes a while, lots of measuring and cutting, creating upstands and folding but the end result is good. About to move the Kwikstage round again. Body struggling though. If anyone wants more detail do ask. Its all quite challenging but still satisfying.

@Cpd Yes I am doing the roof myself, in fact the whole build so far. The Tata does work well, 4.2m sheets just doable but fitting the ridge on the first roof was a challenge as the Sikaflex sealant goes everywhere you don't want it. The eaves and verge details work well. The extended cut is the top pan overlaying a shorter piece underneath which fits next to and then extends up, under and along the window flashing. Cutting the sheets with metal blade circular saw then up stands using folding tools. The Velux apron was not sticking very well possibly due to the intense heat at the moment so will revisit with sealant and possible fixings. Where possible I trimmed the aprons to fit tight underneath the seams. Very impressed with Velux, as long as you follow the instructions. My brother helped me lift the large windows in, 69Kg. 300sq m + to fit, quite the expert now. First roof below.

@Cpd That is a really great job. Did you design the apertures to fit neatly within the corrugations and did you use the EDW flashing kit? I am fitting 7 Velux within a Tata Steel roof, quite challenging and takes a few windows to find the right solution but happy with the end result. It should not leak!

I think you have to get down to the slab only as it will not be classed as a new build if existing walls, roof retained. My brother partially demolished a bungalow then was informed he could not reclaim the vat so demolished the rest but kept the existing slab. He just got a 22k refund.

Does this temperature meet the legionella issue as you have disabled the immersion. Do you know how an ASHP can be used for cooling UFH, I am looking at the new, (quieter) Mitsubishi Ecodan PUHZ-W85VAA. Thanks.

Hi, looking great. Can you confirm that price of £7600.00 for TF is correct, down south you would struggle to have a large garage built for that. Enjoy the build.

Our windows recently fitted. They fixed Compriband to the frame prior to install and then added foam after from the inside. Works well.

Thanks @A_L and @Alexphd1. Correct on the internal floor area. Have a lot of insulation, 3G windows and doors and MVHR. Its airtight. Just want to run a system which is efficient for a family of 4 for 90% of the time. Can someone tell me what a scroll vs inverter ashp is?

The heat loss is 11248 for heating and 4921 for HW. Total 16169kWh. Both suppliers had the SAP test. Over specification? @ragg987 Good point.

I have a couple of quotes to consider for our DHW / Heating solution. UFH and ST for both. 1. NIBE F2040-12 with 100 litre buffer and 500L UVC 2. Mitsubishi Ecodan W85 with 300L UVC, no buffer. Have read @Stones excellent blog about Ecodan. Can anyone share any other experiences of the above topic, Thanks all.

Great job, I did this at my Dad's home, flint stone walls. With the right discs its not difficult. Why the professionals did not bother just leaves you with inconvenience , no recommendation and continues the complaints about trades people.