Nestor

We have a vaulted ceiling and the ducting ran under the steel ridge. In hindsight I could have run the ducting in the warm roof space as I had 70mm timber on top of the rafters. My solution was to make a curved ceiling.

Not sure if this helps, we have a MITSUBISHI ECODAN PUHZ-W85VAA with a 300 Litres PRE PLUMBED EHPT30X cylinder, 3.74 PV array with an Eddi PV diverter. All works fine.

Can you advise as I am about to start cladding. I will have a 50 mm gap at the base of the vertical timber cladding and want to fix mesh to keep out rodents and insects as much as possible. Two options here but the Soffit mesh is a third of the price of the other. Any other alternatives you have used.

I used a Bostik concrete sealer applied with a small roller. a few coats. I did not use any dye, the colour is straight out of the bag. I will try the waterproofer you recommend for some smaller worktops for a pantry. I know, I know......

I will put something up on my self build blog and let you know.

I tried using a soft mallet, tapping on the sides and an orbital sander. Tiny air bubbles appeared around the edges. After grinding I used a PVA / cement mixture to coat the surface to fill any holes then went over again with the grinder / polisher.

@Onoff I siliconed all the internal corners, used reinforcing mesh and some glass fibres.

I made some formas using 18mm matt white melamine. Cast in the garage and then moved across to the house. I purchased a cheap 4' wet grinder off the bay which has worked surprisingly well. Started with a 30, 50, 100 and finished with a 200 using copper bonded diamond grinding/polishing pads. I did a few tests with different aggregate but went with bagged 20kg Blue Circle High strength 40N for consistency across the 3 worktops. Our Pure DAB gave up after 20 years so Makita for the win.

I made some concrete worktops for the kitchen and utility, 40mm depth, two with under mount sink. Kitchen sink worktop is 3.6m, utility 2.4m and the island 1.2m x2m with hob. Major challenge was the weight but they are in. Tiles are temporary. I had a quote for 5.4K so thought I would give it a go.

I have had to provide 72 sqm of bat roost in the garage roof all lined with Bitumen F1. And a heater. The joy.

My brother fitted the same product except 7500L a few years back. Shallow dig was a factor though to be honest I did not look at any other options. It just works.

I fitted a direct feed. Had ordered the gravity fed system but wanted to simply the installation so went with this : F-Line 5000 Litre Rain Backup in a Box System. All the toilets and washing machine can be fed via the mains in the event of power cuts / pump failure.

For the long term greater good fit PV.

Fitting PV from a financial point of view would probably take at least 10 - 15 years to recoup the original outlay without any FIT.

@Taff Have to wait a year to really understand how well it performs in all weather conditions. It just works very well so far. Many others on the Forum have the same product.

It has only been in use since Feb 2020 so I have limited experience. Not noticed any issues so far. It has just been left to run when required, not timed. It has a n Eddi PV diverter fitted so during May and June it used 4 kWh a day for hot water. In March it used 6.6 kWh per day. Family of 4, so 4-6 showers a day, occasional bath and washing up. It is very quiet compared to a NIBE. What @PeterW mentioned early is a good point.

We have the following in our new self build. MITSUBISHI ECODAN PUHZ-W85VAA with a 300 Litres PRE PLUMBED EHPT30X cylinder. Supplied 2019.

Can you clarify for me that I can increase the UVC temp up to 75 degrees when sunny using the PV diverter as at the moment it switches off by 10am on a sunny day as its reached its temp of 56 degrees set on the Ecodan. The higher tank temp in effect increases the tank volume by blending with cold?

Is this for a new build EPC? We scored 91 - B without an air test as was told it was not necessary. For an additional fee however for an air test it would score an A. Average rating in England is 60. Don't worry.

Hi there We are running similar temperatures at the moment with doors and windows open, also no cladding on the exterior yet, which hopefully will have an impact. Would you share how much difference the cooling has once you have switched it off. Thanks.

Thanks Peter, I will add some better quality photos to show the the colour and grain of the birch plywood.

Do not under estimate this advice.

I recently fitted a 10mm glass screen, 2000mm x 1200mm. Fixed on one side and I used some Transparent Setting and Distance Blocks - 4mm Thickness in the U channel fixed to the wall and between the glass and tray. I felt if the screen was knocked the blocks allow a little bit of absorption.

Boom X 2, not a lot of words but you understand.

@Prodave I made the timber frame using 3 layers, 140mm vertical, 70mm horizontal and then 50mm vertical at 600 centres which the OSB is fixed. I fitted the batten every 400mm which I thought would help firm up the plasterboard. The screeders use tripods with an adjustable level to help measure the required depth of the material.