Nestor

+1 for Liebherr. Though expensive at the time still working 20 years later.

@joth Thank you for this. Done. The pumps having been running when the external temp reaches 5c.

I stick built and have enclosed my wall build up. Hand drawn! The t&g Pavatherm is a great product. Air tightness, insulation and attention to detail most essential. Minimal heating required. Floor, Wall, Roof Build up Jan 2018..pdf

Just about to render blockwork underneath soleplate and wanting advice on the correct sand. Thank you.

No blame on BPC, it works fine. We run it at 30% all the time though have a manual boost option and the humidity sensor kicks in when having showers. The machine was specified for the area supplied in the drawings though was at its maximum area. Would not be without it.

I used BPC who supplied a very good service. However the MVHR system is not adequate to meet the building regs even running at 100% so had to be creative with figures for BC. Fortunately you can self certify. They recommend a specific kit based on the floor area though I think the internal volume should be taken into consideration as we have many high ceilings, 3 and 4 metres in the majority of the house. Just something to consider.

I have a ventilated warm roof fitted with Tata Steel SSR system. Pay attention to the closely fitted battens otherwise it is very noisy when the wind blows.

@Thorfun That is a large area so the same width will not make any difference. The wider boards are hopefully a little cheaper.

@Thorfun I think the width depends on the area tobe covered. It might be a good contrast to your Larch boards to have a different width. I fitted locally sourced WRC, knotty compared to imported and about 195mm width. All 200sqm from the same forest in South Devon so does provide real consistency with the boards. The imported timber does vary considerably in colour which I wanted to avoid. My shed below. It has gone silver within in a year. @Russell griffiths Not seen it near completion. Looks great. @JohnMo Another stunning home. @ToughButterCup Swam in the River Dart this morning, 4'C. Sends me to sleep afterwards.

Good question as I was wanting to post something similar. I assume that is correct. Mine below for 2021 which equates to a COP of 5.3. Though I do wonder about the accuracy of the read out.

I used both Pavatherm T&G and Rockwool in our new build. Easy to fit. @joth Thanks for your link to the PH DB, lots of information.

I do prefer the render version especially where the pillars are set back in the gable end and It flows better back into the ceiling. The tiles seem to pull the room back in towards you. Stunning when complete. On Valentines day as well. Get on eBay quick..

My brother has a Nibe 2040 which seems (to my ears ) noisier than the Ecodan so depending on where it is sited might have an impact.

Having both ASHP and excellent insulation / air tightness I recommend concentrating on the fabric of the building first.

We did not need an airtight test for building control but will commission one to increase the EPC to the mid 90's if and when we sell. Fitted MVHR which runs in the background 24/7. The figures above are for both heating and hot water. Those figures indicate a CoP of over 5 though I cannot guarantee the accuracy of the unit. Our PV generates about 3300kWh per year which we probably consume at least a third as we have a PV diverter fitted to the immersion.

From the last year (2021) in our new build, 275sqm, well insulated with PV and MVHR the Ecodan control panel reads out 21000 kWh delivered and 3700 kWh consumed for DHW and heating, I appreciate this is subject to our personal requirements but your heat demand estimate is realistic. Would be interested to know the capital costs for LPG for future reference if you have them.

No specialist building skills but had the time. My Dad who is in his 70's did all the drawings by hand and helped erect the frame. Everything except plastering, electrics, ASHP inc commissioning for RHI and windows ( badly installed ) though fitted 8 Velux myself. Timber frame, 11m steel ridge beam, heaps of insulation, Air tight, MVHR, UFH, Seamed metal roof., Cedar cladding, Concrete work tops and on it goes.

I made a frame similar to a skateboard half pipe on the ceiling then fitted a layer of red faced ply followed by glued and pinned 4mm birch ply, it was a challenge. I have built most of the house myself excluding electrics and skimming.

I had similar issues trying to avoid a large steel ridge and MVHR pipe work. I decided on building a curve using birch plywood.

I will be replacing a broken / cracked, stepped fixed double glazed unit on a very shallow conservatory roof to see if that resolves the issue first. The above feeds into the lead lined box gutter where water is appearing inside the room where the box gutter sits. I cannot see any obvious cracks in the lead. The pointing on the wall is also very old. Would a Desmopol type product be suitable to cover the lead / brickwork? Any input appreciated.

I used screws and Caberfix D4 on top of the joists and joints, wear gloves.

For my EPC I was told an Air Tightness Test was not compulsory, we got an A without it.

Same as me. Photographer for 30 years and now let's go building, though my dear Father (78) helped me build the frame. It has been a challenge but worth it.

Love the blog, photos and video. You have skillz

My poor explanation probably, I used some cut batten spacers, 355mm in. my case for 400mm centres. Once I start with the first horizontal at the bottom I place the spaces on top vertically and put the next horizontal on top of the batten and then fix. I built most of the house myself so needed a way to support longer lengths of batten. I still measured and levelled to keep it all horizontal. Hope that makes sense.