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Russdl

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Everything posted by Russdl

  1. Russdl
    It wasn't going to be, but I think it can, thanks again.
  2. Russdl
    @PeterW I've just been looking through their website, looks good. You have saved hours of fruitless Googling I reckon, thanks a lot. At the moment the cable is coming out of a plasterboarded wall about a foot off the ground, it's about to be tiled over but I still have time to move the cable and with that profile you linked to I would need to move it down to ground level. Not a problem, but then I have to connect it to the LED strip essentially on the floor of the bathroom where it will definitely get wet. I haven't browsed those links long enough to see if there is a suitable connector for that situation. do you know if there is or how that join should be done?
  3. Russdl
    Why not indeed! That looks really good. Cheaper than those decking lights and probably around the same price as a slack handful of decent candles. So, if I understand correctly the IP65 strip gets attached to my (in situ) grey cable and when I find the other end of the grey cable, a transformer is connected to that and Bobs yer uncle? Is there any limit to the length of the grey cable? I guess the grey cable has a much more technical name. (Ah. Just spotted the more technical name for the grey cable T&E, twin and earth?)
  4. Russdl
    @FraserK Thanks for the reply. I will get an electrician to do what is required. The grey cable is already in place from first fix and iirc correctly the other end is up in the loft space (I'll have to check tomorrow). Am I barking up the wrong tree? Can you get the patio lights that I'm looking at that are 240V? Or is there a better solution for little lights behind a bath that are likely to get wet?
  5. Russdl
    +1 to that question. What's the issue there? Crud building up behind them blocking drainage?
  6. Russdl
    The boss likes ToughButterCups suggestion re the candles. She ALSO wants lights behind the bath. So, back to my original question, can anyone advise on my original post regarding the decking lights?
  7. Russdl
    Hmm candles instead of complex (to me) and expensive LEDs. Not a bad idea, not a bad idea at all, and definitely cheaper. It reminds me of the American pen/Russian pencil story. During the height of the space race in the 1960s, legend has it, NASA scientists realized that pens could not function in space. They needed to figure out another way for the astronauts to write things down. So they spent years and millions of taxpayer dollars to develop a pen that could put ink to paper without gravity. Their Soviet counterparts, so the story goes, simply handed their cosmonauts pencils. Apparently not true, but as I was once told, never let the truth spoil a good story. Anyway, as we already have a cable poking out of the wall I'll explore all possibilities.
  8. Russdl
    Our bath will be freestanding, maybe about 50 - 100 mm away from the wall at most. We wanted some LED lights on the wall behind and below the bath for the occasional chilled out soak . Our M&E guy was going to send us a link to some lights that he thought would do the job well but we didn't get that. I'm pretty sure that something like this is what he had in mind. They are decking lights and IP67 rated. It seems like a great idea to me but how would we do it? I know almost zip about electrickery. At the moment we have a grey cable coming through a hole in the plasterboard that is for LED lights. Do we just: 1. Cut the string of lights off from the transformer. 2. Join that string of lights to the in situ cable. 3. Find the other end of the in situ cable and attach the transformer to that. 4. Plug in. Switch on. Chill out? Or is it way more complicated than that? Help appreciated ?
  9. Russdl
    @SteamyTea check the post above yours ?
  10. Russdl
    @dnoble I’m no plumber, though I suspect I’m going to have to learn fast. This is our set up, sadly still not up and running after many months so I can’t comment on its efficiency or otherwise. The Willis heaters are on the right of the picture with a grey buffer (or is it expansion?) tank above it. The UFH manifolds are hidden behind the non commissioned sunamp.
  11. Russdl
    I’d pull the reveals off to see what’s what and then expanding foam any holes as a stop gap. I presume your preferred supplier, when chosen, will do a survey so they will see what they have to work with and maybe advise on any work required prior to them installing the 3G windows. Once they’ve installed the windows (a good idea to watch them like a hawk) get them to fix any cock ups and then put the reveals back. Thats what I would do but hopefully wiser folk will be along soon with further advice.
  12. Russdl
    I think that is an excellent idea. Why didn’t you think about it a couple of years ago so I could have plagiarised it!! (More to the point, why couldn’t I have thought about that myself!)
  13. Russdl
    That may not be the best idea. The airing cupboard is likely to be the warmest room in the house, probably only filled with clean clothes that are maybe slightly damp. With an extract in there you’ll be sending that warm air straight outside (via the heat exchanger) and getting slightly less warm air back. If the airing cupboard could vent to the hallway you could spread some of that warm clean smelling air around the house before expelling it.
  14. Russdl
    @tanneja yep, it's the Ubbink 180mm insulated duct and both runs have a slight fall from inside to out.
  15. Russdl
    How about mounting those manifolds flat against the ceiling (inverted to the picture above) you could have the inlets on the large face/base? It would require more than your 1m2 but you could mount them side by side to allow easy future access. You would be able to use flexible attenuators straight up from the MVHR unit into the base of each manifold plus the airflow has been turned through 90° for you (bending the ducting through 90° takes up a lot of space). The downside could be that one manifold would be in the way of the other when it comes getting a ducting past manifolds. Exactly how many supply and returns lines will you have?
  16. Russdl
    It may well have done but I had some airtight tape left over so I used it. I had MDF left over as well hence they are made of MDF and not ply, we’ll see what happens. Thanks for the offer of the old light fittings as inspection thingies, a great idea, I won’t need them however as the fronts come off with a few flicks of levers for inspection/cleaning. The fronts are sealed with closed cell foam, I’m guessing that’ll be as close to airtight as I’ll need. (They’re still not fitted properly yet)
  17. Russdl
    @tanneja I will be using the restrictor rings for balancing and they will require cutting, I'll also be using air valves that have a small amount of adjustment on them as well. It's not commissioned yet for several reasons, not least of which is that there is no power up there yet. The front face of the home made silencers will be screwed on and then taped so if I do need access at a later date (bound to!) then I'll just have to cut the tape and undo the screws and the silencer will be removable, in fact everything will be easily removable should the need arise.
  18. Russdl
    Didn't someone on here have one that attached to an iPhone? I'll see if I can find that... Yep, it's @AliG that has one, perhaps he can advise on its potential to trace that drip?
  19. Russdl
    Thats got to be worth a go. Sorry, don't have one to lend.
  20. Russdl
    That seems odd. After going through 300mm of insulation and taking two years to manifest it self you would expect there to be a lot of water up there so I'm surprised it seemed to dry out so quickly. I guess the drip is coming from directly below where the storm damaged tiles were? Could that be a coincidence and the drip is starting life somewhere else on the roof. I have to agree with @Temp re the roof build up.
  21. Russdl
    Our water pressure is 3 bar with a flow of 15 litres/min. We have two bathrooms and were advised to go for a 200l accumulator. That advice changed recently and a 300l accumulator was recommended. I don’t know about any formula, and as nothing had changed in the design of the house I suspect the plumber just stuck a wet finger in the air but I could be wrong on that. I can’t tell you how it performs because it’s been sat around for weeks waiting to be installed. It is big. And blue.
  22. Russdl
    I had considered this but decided to give it a miss due to the relatively low cost of the off the shelf offers.
  23. Russdl
    So, the over engineered MVHR pre filters are ready to go, along with the over engineered attenuators. I still need to tape and paint the wall before I fit it all properly but it’s gone together well so here’s hoping it all works ??
  24. Russdl
    You can, but it's not an afternoon exercise, I did my own which took yonks but I was able to try lots of different iterations to get the figures looking good. You could get a PHPP consultant to do it for you but make sure you get one who is properly qualified to take your money - there are some chancers out there. @Jeremy Harris produced his own spreadsheet as he found PHPP to be overly complex iirc, there's probably a copy kicking around on here somewhere which I think several BuildHubbers have used.
  25. Russdl
    And then there were two. External joints taped with left over airtight tape.
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