Russdl

@Conor Ah! I recall messing around with that years ago before I got hooked on Sketchup. Seems to have come on in leaps and bounds since I last saw it.

@Conor it looks like that second iteration would work better, easier to get to stuff. Probably wouldn’t need such a large doorway either. (Mildly jealous of the software you’re using. What is it?)

@Conor can’t quite work out where your MVHR Intake and Exhaust, Supply and Extract ducts would go. What’s above the MVHR unit if it were in that position? A landing? Would all the required plumbing for the 300lt cylinder fit under the stair treads?

I think it depends on the local authority but our self build would definitely have attracted CIL if the CIL exemption paperwork hadn’t been submitted. Hopefully you’re all sorted and don’t need to submit any forms but it may be worth checking because in our case if the forms weren’t submitted before commencement then there would have been no exemption. And still more forms to go for us when we complete. A failure to jump through any of these hoops at the correct stage will result in a big bill coming our way.

@Adsibob Vivien won’t be around to answer (it’s a long story). I’m pretty sure she had an Ecocent Air MVHR. These units have an integrated heat pump so can provide an element of heating and cooling. I was interested in them at one point and speaking to the designer he did say they can be a bit noisy especially when the heat pump is operating and he suggested that the best way to isolate the unit was to place it on sandwich of aluminium sheet and that rubber stuff you find in kids playgrounds, repeat as necessary until the problem has gone. I passed that on to Vivien but no idea if she did that or not, perhaps I’ll give her a call to find out.

@Weebles and there was me thinking it was just Map No.159! ?

@Weebles Sounds like great idea, 20mm MDF may be a bit over the top though, I would have thought 12mm MDF plus your 6mm oak would be more than adequate. Love the wallpaper.

I tried various, ended up back with SketchUp. Can't beat it imho.

@GraemeHM Our main roof is warm, giving us fully useable and open loft space. The single storey element in the image I posted was made warm roof mainly because it was easy to do with MBC. The drawing I attached was for Tata Steel which we didn't use in the end. Our zinc detail is much like that posted by @Russell griffiths with a similar sized upstand. The VMZinc mage you attached is how our roofs are built up and clad. Zero problems so far.

We have a zinc clad 5° warm roof for comparrison.

@Adsibob, it sounds like you’ve got your hands pretty full dealing with COVID, the house and suppliers, rant away. We were pretty anal about it and it took a good weekend, plus a couple of evenings to check what had already been done by the Timberframe company and fill in the bits they’d missed because we felt getting as airtight as possible was fundamental to what we were trying to achieve, which is also bound to be easier on a new build. Life can be too short sometimes and I understand your frustrations so perhaps concentrate on the biggies, windows and doors could provided lots of air leaks if not installed correctly and it would seem that they frequently aren’t.

@Adsibob is the airtightness something you can do you self? It’s very labour intensive, so it would be expensive to get your builder to do it for you, plus if they don’t pay a lot of attention to what they are doing it probably won’t be thoroughly effective. @Jeremy Harris made his own air test rig out of a car radiator fan iirc, with something like that you could find where the air leaks are and set about sealing them.

@AdsibobI have no practical experience as ours isn't switched on yet, still waiting on electricity, however I would have thought there would be absolutely no issues mounting it in either of those eaves spaces regarding the duct run lengths and lack of centrality to the building. Whilst the bottom right option gives you an external wall to go through you say it is south facing and between two properties so potentially the intake air could get quite hot in the summer months. Your other option in the top right would mean you would have to go through the roof with your intake and exhaust. If you went for the top right option I should think you could mitigate any noise transference issues without too much difficulty.

@Trw144 that looks to be zinc for the large majority, there’s a recent threads on here about zinc, it’s not the cheapest. The timber cladding on the second image looks pretty standard but again I don’t suspect it will be cheap, especially regarding the labour of a good chippy.

I knew my sons hobby of breaking guitar strings would come in handy one day!

Thanks all for your inputs, much appreciated as always. ? Just one point as @Mr Punter highlighted. If I use CT1 then a couple of days later drop something heavy on the pan and break it (could happen, has happened in the past!) would I ever get the broken pan off the wall?

@Onoff I’m pleased to say that the pan attaches to the (buried behind tiles) frame without issue. It’s just a case of finishing it off, where to mastic/CT1 and where not to.

@Onoff yep, that’s the one.

@PeterW Here’s one of the back and underside.

The frame is a Geberit Duofix. No gasket. The toilet bowl is Lusso, vague instructions.

The instructions for my wall hung toilet are brief. There is no mention of applying mastic between the bowl and the wall. I’m sure I should, shouldn’t I? Top and sides? Guidance appreciated.

We had panels cut to size here to make a wardrobe, everything cut to the exact size you want and doors pre drilled for hinges. It’s not skill-less to put it in but providing you measure accurately it all goes together with some basic chippy skills. Bits of it in the pic below. I’ll get a better one of it completed if you’re interested.

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I think I’ll end up with mounting the hinges inside which will leave about 9mm of the frame showing. I can live with that and plus it will give me a few mm extra before the open doors hit the loft ceiling.

It’s always so simple in the end. I’ve got to stop overthinking things!

@Jason L that’s not a bad idea. It won’t narrow it down too much. @PeterStarck that was the catalogue I got lost in ? @joe90 the doors don’t exist at the moment so they could be 15mm in which case I don’t have a problem I guess, I could either route out the two 12mm bits to recess the hinges or mount the hinges on the inside face and have 9mm of frame showing when the doors are closed?