Russdl

@Adsibob, it sounds like you’ve got your hands pretty full dealing with COVID, the house and suppliers, rant away. We were pretty anal about it and it took a good weekend, plus a couple of evenings to check what had already been done by the Timberframe company and fill in the bits they’d missed because we felt getting as airtight as possible was fundamental to what we were trying to achieve, which is also bound to be easier on a new build. Life can be too short sometimes and I understand your frustrations so perhaps concentrate on the biggies, windows and doors could provided lots of air leaks if not installed correctly and it would seem that they frequently aren’t.

@Adsibob is the airtightness something you can do you self? It’s very labour intensive, so it would be expensive to get your builder to do it for you, plus if they don’t pay a lot of attention to what they are doing it probably won’t be thoroughly effective. @Jeremy Harris made his own air test rig out of a car radiator fan iirc, with something like that you could find where the air leaks are and set about sealing them.

@AdsibobI have no practical experience as ours isn't switched on yet, still waiting on electricity, however I would have thought there would be absolutely no issues mounting it in either of those eaves spaces regarding the duct run lengths and lack of centrality to the building. Whilst the bottom right option gives you an external wall to go through you say it is south facing and between two properties so potentially the intake air could get quite hot in the summer months. Your other option in the top right would mean you would have to go through the roof with your intake and exhaust. If you went for the top right option I should think you could mitigate any noise transference issues without too much difficulty.

@Trw144 that looks to be zinc for the large majority, there’s a recent threads on here about zinc, it’s not the cheapest. The timber cladding on the second image looks pretty standard but again I don’t suspect it will be cheap, especially regarding the labour of a good chippy.

I knew my sons hobby of breaking guitar strings would come in handy one day!

Thanks all for your inputs, much appreciated as always. ? Just one point as @Mr Punter highlighted. If I use CT1 then a couple of days later drop something heavy on the pan and break it (could happen, has happened in the past!) would I ever get the broken pan off the wall?

@Onoff I’m pleased to say that the pan attaches to the (buried behind tiles) frame without issue. It’s just a case of finishing it off, where to mastic/CT1 and where not to.

@Onoff yep, that’s the one.

@PeterW Here’s one of the back and underside.

The frame is a Geberit Duofix. No gasket. The toilet bowl is Lusso, vague instructions.

The instructions for my wall hung toilet are brief. There is no mention of applying mastic between the bowl and the wall. I’m sure I should, shouldn’t I? Top and sides? Guidance appreciated.

We had panels cut to size here to make a wardrobe, everything cut to the exact size you want and doors pre drilled for hinges. It’s not skill-less to put it in but providing you measure accurately it all goes together with some basic chippy skills. Bits of it in the pic below. I’ll get a better one of it completed if you’re interested.

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I think I’ll end up with mounting the hinges inside which will leave about 9mm of the frame showing. I can live with that and plus it will give me a few mm extra before the open doors hit the loft ceiling.

It’s always so simple in the end. I’ve got to stop overthinking things!

@Jason L that’s not a bad idea. It won’t narrow it down too much. @PeterStarck that was the catalogue I got lost in ? @joe90 the doors don’t exist at the moment so they could be 15mm in which case I don’t have a problem I guess, I could either route out the two 12mm bits to recess the hinges or mount the hinges on the inside face and have 9mm of frame showing when the doors are closed?

? with that reaction @joe90 I guess I’m now looking for the ‘paddle shop’ now!

I was rooting around in the Hafele catalogue where I suspect the answer to my problem lies but I couldn’t decipher it.

@joe90 I don’t have the room for hinges as per your diagram, it’s in the loft so limited space, plus if it opens more than 90 degrees it’ll start digging holes in the plaster.

What hinge do I need to allow a wardrobe door to open and close as per the image below? I’m completely whelmed by the choice available, bordering on over whelmed.

you could call it... a tap! ? @Dreadnaught you mention having to convince you’re M&E advisor on the merits of an alternative system to the hot return loop. Just TELL him that is what you’re having. You mention you’re using a Sunamp so you’re M&E advisor is clearly already comfortable with some less than conventional elements of your design so he should be able to manage an alternative to a hot return loop.

@Adsibob WAY better to ask than wish you’d asked.

@Arnold9801 so @Tennentslager was right on the money. And I’ve used one, but never thought to ask its name! (you should have strung us along for a bit, a golden opportunity wasted ?)

@Tennentslager is it? I’m steering clear of Google on this one because I don’t want to spoil the surprise.

@Arnold9801 I can’t wait for the reply’s because I have absolutely no idea what on earth a ‘dappling bar’ is. This is better than home schooling I suspect.

@Jason L We used this style of cowl vent, clearly no use on a roof but may be there is something similar somewhere that would work on a roof? I think they are similar to @JamesP's but with a much coarser mesh. The coarse mesh will probably let lots of rubbish through, so minimising external cleaning requirements. I made a 'pre filter' just prior to the MVHR to catch that rubbish. The pre filter also allows access to the back of the cowl so I can clean it from inside the house. My pre-filter is probably over large and it turns the airflow through 90° but I reckon something much more compact could be knocked up as an in-line filter. Provided it was big enough to get an air line in you could blow all the crap of any external mesh from within.