Russdl
-
Posts
1722 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
6
Everything posted by Russdl
-
@JFDIY Ah, of course, now I think I fully understand Peters post. Thank you ?
-
@PeterW’s link above went to a gravel covered long radius bend. Now I know I’m very new to this game but I trawl the internet (for all the right reasons) and read all sorts of guff but I’ve never seen or heard of a gravel covered pipe. Are these useful? What’s wrong with a good old smooth, impossible to grip pipe?
-
I was only supposed to test it, not blow the bloody bungs out!
Russdl replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Waste & Sewerage
@AnonymousBosch my turn for the soaking next week ?, if I lay my pipes right. I take it you don’t plan on repeating the air test? -
@PeterW it’s about 24m from that hole to the corner of the house and then about 5m round the corner to pick up the pipes coming out of the house. I suspect the give in the pipes would do it?
-
@PeterW just so I’m clear on that. Long swept clay bend from the existing clay pipe to the new IC turning through 90 degrees I presume? Something like the below? What about the extra 15 degrees I need to get it pointing towards the house?
-
? I’ve done it again and I’m not panicking anymore! its in the garden, the top of the pipe in the picture is 900+mm below ground level. The flow from the house would hit my left heel and exiting stage right in the existing clay pipe. Thanks for bearing with me.
-
@AnonymousBosch you need to get yourself a grave digger, worth their weight in gold, sadly in these trying times he keeps getting called away for his primary function. I dug (well he dug) a hole and found the drain going downhill steeply, which is good, it’s given me a bit more fall to play with. I calculated that I had about 25mm to spare over about 30m. I’ve now got an extra 230mm or so. We found the clay pipe and a connection which to my mind is great so my plan will be to remove the join and the pipe to the left of the join put in a 45, then the IC then another 45 and head to the house. One thing though, the existing drain doesn’t leave the plot perpendicular to the boundary and I’ll actually need a 45 and a 15 bend prior to the IC then a 45 the other side of the IC to get perpendicular to the boundary/house wall for the remainder of the drain run. That means my drain will turn through 105 degrees at that new IC to get in to the existing drain. Will there be a problem with that?
-
@Oz07 excellent. Thanks for your help.
-
Soz, panic question so gibberish came out. Yellow is the main drain in the track. Herras fence is our boundary. Red X marks where I want to put the new IC. Existing IC on the site is way to the left of the red X and too far away to be practical. New IC would be 1.5 to 2m from the boundary.
-
Quick panic question. I'm about to start digging a hole to put a new IC in to connect to the existing foul water pipe on my plot. Are there any rules on how close to the boundary on my side that the new IC has to be?
-
No one has asked the question yet, just permission to ask the question.
-
Of course you can.
-
@dpmiller No, its sat where his old mini used to be I think, that's been relegated to the other, less posh, garage. That's a 4 bay garage with a fifth car up on the lift (left of the picture). I think he's got 8 cars altogether, all of them a bit special and worth a bob or two. Git! I guess I should add that he's a nice git, he did lend me his block and tackle after all.
-
I popped round my friends house today to borrow a block and tackle to drag my heavy bath up the stairs. This was in his garage, that’s my fantasy!
-
The carpenter who did our cladding was very good and very skilled. What surprised me was that he cut every single board slightly too big, 10mm or so, checked it and then did a second cut that was always spot on. It added a few minutes for each board having to cut them twice but there were no mistakes and the results were excellent.
-
Sorry it wasn’t a ‘fit’ @Patrick hopefully you’ll find someone soon.
-
@Patrick I'll PM you the details of a carpenter who's not too far from you. He's worked on and off on our build, he's hard working and his workmanship is good and I'd thoroughly recommend him, but: ❌ No. He's a one man band but can probably get hold of others. ✅ ❌/✅ I guess it depends how you define that. He earns a living.
-
So I dug a big hole (well, my grave digger mate did) and dropped in 14 crates which equated to 2.8m3. The invert level into these crates is about 150mm below the top of the crates, maybe a bit more, so that removes .5 - .75m3 of storage so I've effectively got around 2.2m3 of soakaway. The BCO just wanted to see photos but at the last minute changed his mind and wanted to see the crates in situ. I was mildly concerned that he was going to change his mind and say it needed to be bigger so awaited his visit with a bit of apprehension. He turned up yesterday. He liked the cladding on our house and took some photos. He liked the (maybe) temporary name I'd given to our slightly contentious house and took a photo. He had quick look in the hole, took a photo of the membrane wrapped soakaway crates and drove off. Perfect.
-
Our guttering is all black metal, no expansion noises at all. If the budget will stretch to it I'd recommend it.
-
Ash wood floor, staircase and balustrade
Russdl replied to Visti's topic in Wood & Laminate Flooring
@Visti Spot on, That ash looks great, especially on the stairs. -
Crikey. At least that won't happen in my new build. Mind you, neither will that, we'll have to put our reliance in smoke/heat detectors. Thanks for the background to the strange regs.
-
Understood, sorry I've no clue about those.
-
Internal blinds or external?
-
That's sort of my understanding as well but as there is no requirement for self closing it all seems a bit pointless. Ho-hum.
-
Absolutely no idea and I wouldn't be at all surprised that if they weren't he would have no idea and probably wouldn't question it. But if he did question it, and I hadn't fitted the fire rated doors into the pockets it would be less than straight forward to replace the door blank. With the Portman pocket door system, once they're in that's it, I'd have to open up the wall to change them. Here's section of the house where the stairs go up to the loft. The stairs will be fixed and the loft open to the floors below in the area of the stair well. I believe it's this aspect of the design that has caused building control to insist on fire rated doors, FD20 as it happens but I don't think you can get FD20 doors these days hence the original reference to FD30.
