Russdl

Thanks all for your inputs, much appreciated as always. ? Just one point as @Mr Punter highlighted. If I use CT1 then a couple of days later drop something heavy on the pan and break it (could happen, has happened in the past!) would I ever get the broken pan off the wall?

@Onoff I’m pleased to say that the pan attaches to the (buried behind tiles) frame without issue. It’s just a case of finishing it off, where to mastic/CT1 and where not to.

@Onoff yep, that’s the one.

@PeterW Here’s one of the back and underside.

The frame is a Geberit Duofix. No gasket. The toilet bowl is Lusso, vague instructions.

The instructions for my wall hung toilet are brief. There is no mention of applying mastic between the bowl and the wall. I’m sure I should, shouldn’t I? Top and sides? Guidance appreciated.

We had panels cut to size here to make a wardrobe, everything cut to the exact size you want and doors pre drilled for hinges. It’s not skill-less to put it in but providing you measure accurately it all goes together with some basic chippy skills. Bits of it in the pic below. I’ll get a better one of it completed if you’re interested.

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I think I’ll end up with mounting the hinges inside which will leave about 9mm of the frame showing. I can live with that and plus it will give me a few mm extra before the open doors hit the loft ceiling.

It’s always so simple in the end. I’ve got to stop overthinking things!

@Jason L that’s not a bad idea. It won’t narrow it down too much. @PeterStarck that was the catalogue I got lost in ? @joe90 the doors don’t exist at the moment so they could be 15mm in which case I don’t have a problem I guess, I could either route out the two 12mm bits to recess the hinges or mount the hinges on the inside face and have 9mm of frame showing when the doors are closed?

? with that reaction @joe90 I guess I’m now looking for the ‘paddle shop’ now!

I was rooting around in the Hafele catalogue where I suspect the answer to my problem lies but I couldn’t decipher it.

@joe90 I don’t have the room for hinges as per your diagram, it’s in the loft so limited space, plus if it opens more than 90 degrees it’ll start digging holes in the plaster.

What hinge do I need to allow a wardrobe door to open and close as per the image below? I’m completely whelmed by the choice available, bordering on over whelmed.

you could call it... a tap! ? @Dreadnaught you mention having to convince you’re M&E advisor on the merits of an alternative system to the hot return loop. Just TELL him that is what you’re having. You mention you’re using a Sunamp so you’re M&E advisor is clearly already comfortable with some less than conventional elements of your design so he should be able to manage an alternative to a hot return loop.

@Adsibob WAY better to ask than wish you’d asked.

@Arnold9801 so @Tennentslager was right on the money. And I’ve used one, but never thought to ask its name! (you should have strung us along for a bit, a golden opportunity wasted ?)

@Tennentslager is it? I’m steering clear of Google on this one because I don’t want to spoil the surprise.

@Arnold9801 I can’t wait for the reply’s because I have absolutely no idea what on earth a ‘dappling bar’ is. This is better than home schooling I suspect.

@Jason L We used this style of cowl vent, clearly no use on a roof but may be there is something similar somewhere that would work on a roof? I think they are similar to @JamesP's but with a much coarser mesh. The coarse mesh will probably let lots of rubbish through, so minimising external cleaning requirements. I made a 'pre filter' just prior to the MVHR to catch that rubbish. The pre filter also allows access to the back of the cowl so I can clean it from inside the house. My pre-filter is probably over large and it turns the airflow through 90° but I reckon something much more compact could be knocked up as an in-line filter. Provided it was big enough to get an air line in you could blow all the crap of any external mesh from within.

@ma9mwah what @BartW said. That was a bit over my head as well!

I don’t suppose you have a link that specific reg do you?

Could you run a supply duct up along the ridge of the vaulted ceiling, boxed in, or would that ruin the aesthetic?

@Jason L as above, I’d get one in the dining area. Also I’d get them further away from the doors, as you have done in the sitting room. When I did mine I found out somewhere that the supply and extract air valves should be at least 1500mm from any wall. I can’t remember for the life of me where I found that but it’s something I’ve tried to do where possible, unfortunately doing that upsets my OCD as the valves are not necessarily in an eye pleasing position in the ceilings or aligned with light fittings.

Yes you can, and if needed you can also get a flatter version if there isn’t room for the round. The more 90 degree bends the more the flow is restricted though.