Steptoe

I'd agree with @ProDave Allow 1 hour per point, that's standard dot and dab or TF, and 2hours per down light, marking out is a pita, and can become surprisingly time consuming. Build type can make a massive difference too, if all the drops are in conduit, then +1/2hr, if being chased into block, then another +1/2hr, But 35K, that's a BIG house,!! The biggest domestic I have ever done came in at just under 19K, and that was a massive house, and very high spec, lots of automation, 3 x ASHP solar thermal, and PV , supplied by AN Other, we only connected/wired it. An good 3/4 bed house usually comes in about 6-8 K for a good spec. Versus a cheaper spec 'normal' house which can be done for about 3+1/2K.

What I think a lot of self builders fail to grasp is the sheer price that mass builders can buy materials for, Mass builders could, if they wanted, build a house to most of the self build standards for a large % less than a self builder, Its about quantities of buying power, Example, I do a lot of contract work for a largeish company, they can buy normal T&E cable about 30% less than I can, simply because they buy in the 1000s of metres every month, and I maybe only hit 500m if I'm lucky, and that's for a specific size, on the other hand, I can buy pyro (a fairly specialised cable), about 10% cheaper than they can as I buy it more regularly than they do . I can actually ring the wholesaler up (same one they use) and have it next day in any size I need, they are on a 5 day turnaround on it. Its all about buying power, that's why Tesco (other supermarkets are available) can sell the same loaf of bread much cheaper than your local corner shop. Yes, lots of stuff can be bought cheaper online too, but at what cost in time, I usually can't justify hours trawling online to save a fiver on a light fitting, or some other item if I'm only fitting 10 of them, Time is money, if my customer wants to do that, I'm fine with it, I just don't warranty it, even if a customer sends me a link i wont supply it, too many CCCs out there, as shown by @JSHarris with his unearthed lights, you wouldn't save much money by getting me to test and strip every light. Its not unknown either for cheap cable etc either to be sold, CCS was very common a couple of years ago for T&E.

I never had a car, Had a bike, and a few vans, Always had a bike though when I was younger, Anyway, I digress, my brother borrowed my van one day to move some stuff or something, so I had his car to work, picked the then GF up in it when she finished work, on the way home she said, "I know you need the van for work, but why don't you get a car instead of that stupid bike,?" I stopped the car, and put my ex-GF out, she was only about 15mile from home.

OK, not on the same market level, But, our current toilet came from BnQ, one of their cheaper designer ranges, was the missus picked it, I was dubious, boi was I wrong, That has shifted some amount of turf I have cut,!!!! I've often looked expecting to have a long session of waiting and flushing, not once has it failed to clear, Well, except when the little one decided to put most of a packet of baby wipes down it, I didn't know a 2yo needed about 50 baby wipes for a little bum her size,!!!!!!

There is a link inside you had to reconnect, apparently they had to remove it due to some patent or other dewalt held. Digital, yes, I think that refers to the display, lol. I've just rang my mate to see if his daughter has any more freebies this time, (she works at howdens) , she got him a drill last time, and me the radio, maybe swap it about this time,

I think @ProDave meant to get yourself a cheap and cheerful normal toilet and build a little 4'x4' hut around it and plumb it into your septic tank, much like an old fashioned outhouse type affair really. you could even put it right close to your tank so some temp pipework neednt be so long.

CRAIL,!!!!! we used to race up there, or nearby at least, sea on one side, nothing on the other side for 30 minutes, realistically,,,, lovely part of the world though.

Building site or not, Its still YOUR HOUSE anyone that can't respect that shouldn't be in YOUR HOUSE.

@TerryE I think you may have misread my post. I would 100% agree on your NO smoking policy, as a smoker myself, it is just disrespect to expect it to be acceptable to others within their house, As long as you don't have any issue with someone having a cig outside, then I don't see any issue whatsoever . But, you do get some customers who do actually think you should walk down the road and stand outside next doors house to have a cig, Yes, its a dirty habit, but, it's one I have, that and a few beers by a weekend, hopefully it's something that doesn't make me a social phariah,

I agree, its not down to your employee to enter into this discussion with a customer, he enters into it with you. I also carry overshoes, but not always convenient if lots of in-out trips required. I'm a smoker, and I would 100% agree with your no smoking policy, I don't smoke in my own house, I would never even think of smoking in a customers house, At the cost of a house build, I'd think knocking up a brew hut should be well within the budget to keep everyone happy and bobbing along nicely,

This issue of removing the boots, Has anyone thought of the H&S implications of this ? I doubt your insurance company would be happy, I certainly wouldn't entertain the idea of removing my footwear, in fact I've walked off/refused jobs for this very reason.

what is actually there? could you drill and resin with some threaded bar? would save any worry about burst out.

BTW, what Ive done a few times is fit an LED strip inside the hood, something I keep intending to do with my own, just another good intention there I think,

but, probably not something you need very often, much like me looking for some oddball plumbing fitting, that actually turns out to be something common as muck that you use every week, except I have no idea what to actually look for, so it doesnt exist to me. EDIT : no, I dont believe you do get converters for those G4 fittings, so you are correct in that manner

just stick a mains LED lamp in, you can buy any number of M-F/F-M converters nowadays if the lamp you want to use doesnt come in that particular holder type

this may sound counter intuitive , have you tried fitting them backwards? ie, facing the reflector rather than outwards I'm not saying it will be any better, (it may be worse!), but worth a try.

oh, not good then,,, 2x2 on front of the stud? or is there other stuff on that wall already? EDIT : well that wont work, just looked again and saw the UFH

whats on the loft side? could be some form of posi-flow system, ??????

oh, just as an aside to this, lots of big sites have actually banned halogen worklights due to the fire risk associated with the heat, may be of concern as there are lots of timber frame builders on here, I dont know the exact details, but apparently a site went on fire one night due to sawdust settling on a now turned off halogen light, and the latent heat ignited it. this was probably about 10-12 years ago iirc.

wouldnt you need to add the depth of the wall surface to your 55mm ? ( ie, the ply/osb & plasterboard, tiles etc ) wouldnt that get you to 90mm ?

for a pure worklight you really want something over 6000K colour temp, generally called a daylight, it will give a truer representation of the actual finish of whatever you are doing, although, as @JSHarris says, you may find cool white easier on the eye, definitely dont go for warm white under 4000K the colour of the finish will be distorted, cool white is usually a happy medium, and if its an inside finish it wont matter so much for a little colour distortion, personally all the LEDs inside my house are cool white, daylight white in the workshop and the some of the outside floods, and some people prefer warm white in the bedroom, warm white will give off an 'orangey' light, much like a halogen. EDIT : as I said previously, be very careful of going by wattage, use lumen ( lm ) output as your guide, I've seen some 20w lights that arent as good as some 10w ones,

There is also a set measurement for anything that extends below the ceiling a certain depth it then splits the room into a different compartment as the smoke folds along it, rather than traverses it, I'm not sure how this equates to a sloped ceiling though, I'd have to look it up, TBH, I wouldn't worry about your situation though with it being one room in reality, But deffo keep them 300mm from and adjacent fitting or surface.

Oh, how deep does the purlin extend from the ceiling,? 150mm iirc is the maximum distance, So looks like you may not be able to install them on the vertical as they (usually) need to be 300mm from any adjacent fitting or surface.

You can get cfl replacements for halogen lamps, Always go by the lumen output, not the wattage, and go for cool or daylight white, much better colour aspect, and brighter for a given wattage, I'd go for 2 or 3 20w LEDs rather than a single 50, you're able to spread the light better that way. I changed a 500w halogen in my back yard to 2x 20w halogen cool white and have more light than I did previously.

+1 Deffo go for 2 separate units from AICO market leaders for domestic IMHO Do you also require a smoke in an escape route,? I've not come across anywhere yet that hasn't required at least one smoke detector, I recently done a commercial garage workshop where the FO specified a smoke alarm to be fitted, we had to put it inside a 'cupboard' (of sorts) otherwise it would have went off every time an engine was started, FO was happy enough with it,