Steptoe

As I said in the post above The only definitive way of knowing if the pipework requires a main bond is to measure it with a proper continuity tester. If your electrical system has been designed properly, supplementary (cross) bonding almost certainly should NOT be put in place.

That's a very old document, its superseded now with the use of ADS, supplementary bonding is now all but obsolete in (all but a very few special cases ) installations carried out since 2008,

I used to contract for a company that done solar PV, solar thermal, ASHP and UFH, it was really only the latter three that were interconnected, the only connection between PV and plumbing would be a solar dump, and it can be done completely separately, I'd say as long as you have same company doing ashp and ufh then it should be hassle free (if there ever is such a thing)

You only need to bond the water if the continuity between the incoming water supply and the Main Earth Terminal is under 22K ohm, most plumbers put a short section of copper directly after the stopcock in case it is required. It doesn't really matter whether the install is plastic or copper .

youre not going to be putting one of those in your house , well, I'd hope not anyway, no, I was just referring to the instantaneous hidden dual outlet types, as I said, it really depends on how much you want to use it, and just how high spec you wanted, I was only pointing out that self regulating temp and flow controlled units can be had fairly cheaply, not as all singing or precise as a modulating unit, but quite effective for a lot of people, I suppose its like a Quooker, some people see them as overkill, others wouldnt be without one, personally, I love them, but only at the right price, and as my BiL sells high end kitchens to trade,,,,,,,

Yep, there is, but depending on the purpose of it would it warrant the massive price difference for a wash basin,? EDIT : Most showers are still merely thermostatic, and for myself at least, there is absolutely no discernible pressure change or temp difference in my shower, and its a fairly low end 9.5kw.

Most of them nowadays are thermostatic controlled, right down to the piddly little 2 or 3kw over basin ones you get in workshops, You could get a cheapish (but still perfectly OK) 9.5kw dual outlet for under £200

The answer is simple, Like @ProDave I am CIS registered, and I am a Ltd company, If I do a one off job for a private person then they simply pay my invoiced amount, the fact you are building as a Ltd Co now means you are just that, a company (ie, a contractor) , sub-contracting someone to do a job for you, The CIS itself isn't very difficult, but it will cost you £100/month iirc, and you must file your statements of deductions monthly, even if they are £0 . You may have got away with building the two houses without this if you hadn't gone Ltd, And, your builder (or anyone else for that matter) , MUST provide you with a monthly invoice, otherwise you CANNOT pay him, legally. make sure your accountant tells you EXACTLY who (the proper company name) the invoice must be made out to. EDIT : you must make sure anyone doing work for you gives you their UTR number (unique tax reference) , that way you only deduct 20% , otherwise you deduct 30%

I had a parkside hot air gun for about 4years, used regularly, 2or3 times a week, for maybe an hour or 2 on and off obviously, Couldn't fault it for the money.

Thought about this, The easiest way would simply be a relay wired I'm parallel to the pump, with the outputs going to the RPi GPIO That's the simpilest method, and no complicates code or anything else for the Pi Exactly as you said in the OP @SteamyTea

I like it, But, I reckon 2p floor would be better value for money,

Yes, and no, but don't use them, Its a catch 22, the only way to use a banjo properly with a plastic enclosure is to fit it outside the box, slide it onto the gland, tighten first nut up to it, fit gland, tighten 2nd nut, but 2nd nut will not stay tight, plastic creep, so you need the first nut to hold banjo tight to gland Piranaha nuts are the answer, saves a load of faffing about.

Sorry, I thought we were talking of things from a byegone era,

I had one for years, An old bloke gave it too me when I was an apprentice, I ended up lending it to a bloke at Darley moor one day when he turned up in his van and all he had was a t-shirt, jeans and a box of beer.

I've been asking my missus for a 'new' donkey jacket for Xmas for past 10 years, but not one of these new trendy pretend ones, Apparently they no longer exist,

Its about 15 years out of date,

I have problems burning MDF in my firepit/chiminea outside, its rank. I wouldn't want it in an indoor woodburner TBH.

Unfortunately @JSHarris a pipecutter will usually just try and crush and slightly deform the cable, the cable just pushing itself into an oval away from the blade as it rotates, I'm not too good at describing stuff (proper English is a second language to me, I only learnt it at grammar school at the age of 11) Fit your gland to the box/enclosure Line your SWA up to it, and mark where you want the armour to be cut with some tape, this keeps it square when you move the cable Cut the outer sheath with a junior hacksaw, keep cutting round and round until you are halfway through the armour strands, Slice the outer sheath off with a knife, Flex the strands in and out and they will snap off, just do 3or4 strands at a time When all broke off, offer up your shroud, the wrong way round Now take your knife again and cut the tip off tour shroud where it sits on the inner sheath Turn shroud around and fit Slide outer nut of gland over, not forgetting compression ring etc if its a CW, and inner ring if it has one, Cut back outer sheath just enough to give you enough armour to get a nice seat on gland body Mark and remove inner sheath where it will enter enclosure, 1/4" inside is adequate, ensure inner sheath is kept intact throughout the gland body, Remove inner sheath Slide conductors and inner sheath through gland body Line armour to gland, (it may help to five it a squeeze with some pipe pliers) Slide nut up (and inner ring if required), Start nut by HAND, very important you don't cross thread Tighten nut with tool of choice (Tighten compression gland if applicable, CW only) Slide shroud over Additional notes If a metal enclosure : final tighten of inner nut , hammer and chisel usual method for most If plastic enclosure, ensure you have fitted your piranha nut the right way round, then insert your grub screw and fly lead. If you are fitting SWA to removable steel panels the earthing methods are up to yourself, too many differing opinions on how to do it. But I doubt many diy will be doing that HTH.

It would indeed, Good find,

You could alternatively for a flow sensor on the pipework , ?

Im fairly sure I said similar yesterday, anyway, I digress, RADIAL PROS quicker to install less cable safer less inconvenience under fault easier to segregate circuits a cable that is actually protected by an OCPD that is of a suitable size CONS requires more ways in the CU RING PROS higher loading permitted for same size cable thats about it really CONS unsafe - a cable that can ideally carry 27A is usually protected by a 32A MCB relying on the balance of current flow to avoid mishaps, this is normally fine until a fault develops or the cable gets cut/split/damaged etc more cable more install time more inconvenience under fault conditions thats the main considerations

That's most likely a LOT of circuits @jack

Yep, They come from the same source many brand name RCBO s and MCBs come from, and are widely used worldwide where mostly only DP RCBOs are used, Yet another area where we are in the dark ages and still permitting SP RCBOs as acceptable under most circumstances. As I'm sure you know, most of these things are simply rebranded generic clones.

Yep, you simply wouldn't use SP RCBOs, and these are a comparable price, Assuming, (and I know I shouldn't) that OnOff and myself both obtain these direct from the same source, they are not afaiaa sold to the public, but only to Electricians who have evidenced it to the importer.

Mixing up a TNCS system and a TT system is possibly lethal, Completely different earthing systems and protective measures required.