Cpd

I used a heatproof render around my fire and it’s working fine without cracking.

I am not speaking with any authority but I have seen all manner of set ups and to conclude I think WBS are very forgiving. Just the other day I set up one in a shed for an event..... just plonked it on the ground, put a flexi pipe on it and wired it up to the door frame..... total hash but it worked great. When we were finished I took of the flexi pipe and shoved the stove back under a tarp for storage. Can you fit the pipe to come out the back of the stove ? You need to be able to clean the flu from inside the house, usually they have a T at the bottom with an access hatch to put the rods up. What you don’t want is to create an area that ash can accumulate and potentially block the flue.........

Looks fantastic, would second what Jeremy says about ply being a very good option. Plastics would also work but I have no experience or examples in this but could be looked into if wood was not possible for some unknown reason.

Is there any waterproof material that can be applied over the osb before fibreglass works go on top ? Something that WILL adhere to the damp osb but provide 100% separation in regards to moisture.... and then still be able to take The fibreglass on top..... ?

Nice explanation. Slowly but surely I will get my head around this stuff.

Wow.... how the other half live........

I have a shower vent with back draught shutter..... the fan runs all the time and goes into boost when you switch on the shower. In really stormy weather you get the “clanging / clattering” of the back draught shutter as it’s fights against the storm from one side and the fan on the other...... it was already installed and was never a problem when I had the fan that only came on when you had a shower. If I had put it on the north ridge it would have been better but at the time I just went with the shortest run, straight up and out.

Sounds crap to me...... if your paying a professional to do a job then you expect a proper job, if you pay a monkey peanuts then you have to expect sub standard work. I would be looking for alternatives. Could be a very tricky situation, old timers hate to be told they are doing it wrong. Best of luck.

Out of interest what is the make / type of membrane on the roof at the moment? I have used roof shield and am not impressed at all...... the first time I used it frost got into it when it was wet and it was never the same again, second time / another roof after torrential rain it just became obvious that it is just not a good product. I know it’s wildly used throughout Scotland but if your going to redo it make sure to use the best you can get. Ask around on here for what’s tried and tested after being exposed to the elements.

Deviated from my stair plan and spent the whole of yesterday plaining down oak whisky barrel lids...... am going to use them as treads ! It’s in a shed and only for fun so it’s only 600mm wide. Sometime I wonder why I like making my life so complicated. Good luck putting it all together !

Painful experience__ and very frustrating for you. It’s so upsetting when multiple little bad decisions all decide to join up to make a big appearance, I think it’s called “accumulative error “ each one on there own seems trivial but......... I am sure it will be worth it in the long run. Extra natural light will be a big bonus in a shaded aspect. Good luck and thanks for sharing the good the bad and the ugly.

Welcome. Looks like a neat and tidy job. my projects is similar but I did not go down the “breathable” route. Instead I used pir insulation inside with a ventilation gap between it and the stonework. Very carful detailing on airtightness with the aim of installing an MVHR. I believe that once your committed yourself to the “breathable” route then you need to be very careful not to deviate from using the correct materials. If you have not found the (Green building forum) already then I would advise you to pop over and have a look as this is something much more common to them. Best of luck.

Just building a flight of stairs as well.... it’s in a shed and is for access to raised platforms. Went to my favourite builders merchant and has a snoop round the back of the stacks..... five lengths of 10x2 a bit wet and muddy but otherwise perfect. Got them for nothing, (well I give the boys a good cash gift once a year for the Xmas party) next I salvaged half a dozen lengths of decking timber from behind another stack fir the treads. So got all the timber and works are ongoing. Love a bit of salvage, will post pics when it’s done.

Can you hire a water pump or something like a garden hose pump, fill a dustbin with water and then use the pump to spray the windows. would have this as a priority job as winter is on its way...... I have just had to refit some of my timber frames as I got a detail wrong...... and needless to say water was seeping in and this was going to eventually cause much bigger problems if not dealt with ASAP.

Worst job so far..... cutting and fitting Pir. I aim for about a 5mm gap either side of the Pir to then fill with foam. I also did it in split layers. 50mm first, then 120mm and finally 25mm over the timbers. If your cutting it wear a mask.... wear one anyway as it’s horrid stuff.

I turfed my cabin roof, the build up was. Vented void sarking boards underlay heavy gauge plastic x2 layer pond liner x 1 layer old wool carpet Ground fabric 25mm pea gravel for drainage and polystyrene to reduce weight More ground fabric 70mm turf this was a total diy job and done as a bit of fun. It works great and yes it dies back in drought but regrows within weeks. Stops the sound of rain and helps to keep temperatures stable. Heath Robinson but works great and people love the look.

Total DIY and six years into it....... no regrets as I love the work. Being seriously ill for over two years really destroyed my planned budget and that now causes the frustration of trying to find enough funds for materials. Just purchased 75 sheets of osb and got given 75 sheets of plaster board so very happy with that as it will keep me busy for a few months. I often have volunteers around to help on the project and could not manage without them.

Sounds great.... I did / am doing something similar but with electric already in place. Beautiful location / long abandoned homes.... six years into the project.... still love it but would have made some different choices had I know at the beginning what I know now thanks to this forum and follow on reading. Pictures please !

Not sure I can help on your specific situation but during my renovations I had to deal with draught coming in between some timber joints, really small gaps..... so I drilled holes just big enough to get the nozzle of the foam gun in and jammmed it in and gave it a good squirt. It worked really well and I repeated as required. It made no difference to the structure as the holes are tiny and only go in about 50mm but it sealed the gaps and no more draught.

JB weld ?

Your best getting a second hand mounted wet saw. The dust this work creates will ruin anything that’s not specifically designed for the job. Yes they say they will do it but for how long. Use a good second hand one and sell it when your done. It’s dirty, nasty work.

Looks like a good way to ruin a mitre saw...... when I am not using my big F>O masonry saw with diamond blade and running water I would: - use a large angle grinder with a good diamond blade, I set up a leaf blower to blow the dust away (just sticky tape the reeves on mid blow) hold the blower down between some bricks. start by marking your cut with a coloured pencil / crayon as it sticks better than just normal pencil, then run your angle grinder among the line to mark it only. Don’t try to do the full depth just 5mm or so. You will then have a permanent line that’s easy to follow. The blower keeps things clean and helps cool the blade. You still need a dust mask and goggles for standard safety . Done hundreds of such cuts and you soon become proficient.

Just emailed them and they say it’s got a smooth inner bore.

Looking at this corner fills me with dread..... there are obvious massive gaps where the patch has not been sealed..... if this is commonplace then you will have multiple leeks around all your windows. Sorry I have nothing helpful to say.

Done it numerous times, and ran it twice (the bits you can run) usually in my Landy so park close and sleep in that, there is also a wee spot to camp.... but you need to be in the know of where it is.....