Conor

Get the tray. Ours was nearly 10mm longer and wider than stated.

The SAP assessor will assume a value (max allowable by the regs) unless you specify otherwise. We had a design assumption of 3, and achieved 1.4.

Most PV systems run at about 7-10% loss by the time you get to the inverter output... So in your case in ideal conditions you should see a max output of about 3.8kW. that does not take in to account any shading, sort on panels, efficiency loss due to overheating etc.

Fit a 45⁰ bend at the tee and a U bend appliance trap above it. £10. 10mins. Sorted.

The depth of the mesh is dependent on its purpose. I'm assuming it's only for anti-cracking reasons? In which case it would be set 40-50mm below the surface... So perfect to tie your UFH pipes to. If you have the pipes deeper, the response time wil be slower. You'll have a bit more heatloss but not sure how significant it would be, of at all.

Yeah, that's the thing, we want to keep the land for a hypothetical second house... Which would go down like a lead balloon here! Our entrance is at the top of the map. Re the driveway at the back... The driveway down the dose is to access the courtyard at the back that originally had a covered garage area which we've since ditched.

It's currently double the width we're allowed... The original entrance was 3m wide and we have to reinstate the hedge back to this... So wouldn't impact us massively but would actually help as we wouldn't have the hedge between us and 51 along the road.

Scenario: our neighbours want to extend their house and build a garage to the rear of their house. To do this, they need approx 3m of our land along our boundary, totally about 40m length. Context: we're good friends. Their house is small, poorly laid out and they don't like it. They don't have an unlimited budget. Neither of us plan to move any time soon (best street in the town basically). The strip of land is where our driveways are. I think for the majority of the land they need only for access, with a small square at the bottom for the garage. We currently have about 12m from our house to the boundary. We want to keep enough land for future development... Large garage, extension, annex, separate house etc. So we are hesitant to sell as it would hinder any future development options. Can we grant them an easement/ access rights so they can extend their house (up to edge of existing boundary) but still access the rear of their property? We'd still both have our own dedicated driveways, this new access would fit between our existing drives. Then we could both use this to access the rear of our properties and allow us to keep an option for future development as we could also use the shared access? I know sheared access is usually a complex issue and a source of many a dispute.... Enlighten me. Essentially we'd straighten the boundary a bit so it's parallel with their house, and turn our sloping driveway in to a shared access.

I can't think of a reason. Only thing would be the bottom of the trap wouldn't be a continuous smooth U bend.. more like a upside down n. But as they won't be used there's no worries over blockages.

We have three 40mm waste connections for future use, so no appliances connected. BCO has asked for traps to be fitted rather than just bungs. I've a load of left over solvent weld bends... Can I just make up my own traps using three 90⁰ bends and short lengths of pipes? We're at the stage of the build where saving £20 here and there is really important!

Is there mesh in the base coat? What was the weather like? Any direct sun?

Earth rod can be several metres away of needed. I'd stick another duct in through the concrete base and run it to a less rocky area. You can then just cast a small cent or concrete slab with the inspection hatch in it. Or you could use a longer earth rod. The spark won't do the hatch, digging, laying ducting. That's on the civils (your) side. The spark needs to have everything done - rcbo, main fuse, earth, meter tails etc in place before NIE install the meter and energise your connection. They'll still pull and connect the cable cable even if you haven't got the earth in. This was how ours looked after the cable was pulled but before the meter was installed. .

Only 6months or so. It seems really tough and there is a 20 year guarantee. It's on a dormer 2.5 stories up.... Really hope there's never a problem as would be a nightmare to get to and work on.

We put bi-folds in our last place with a slave door for exactly the same reasons. Used it a lot and can't imagine the hassle of a heavy lift and slide.

Yes, mine is in the wall. Still used the hockey stick tho.

Yes. I did the rod myself before doing the slab and got a firm telling off for ruining the threads on top of the rod.

We used fleece backed pvc. That's just what the roofer we'd been reccomended uses. Seems grand.

You can run external cables, just need to use shielding. Dont look pretty tho.

Spark connects the earth wire to the earth rod, hammers it in to the ground, inspection cover is fitted over, cement it in to place. Spark tests.

We've a 2400x1300mm door from Internorm. Could have been bigger if we wanted. I think a lot of companies only do up to 2100mm as very few people willw any taller than that so it's not worth their time tooling up and testing bigger doors.

If it lasts one year, it'll last a hundred. Single skin walls without piers is more of an issue on long walls. Your returning walls and the roof structure add a lot of strength.

Was the same here for the ducting they specced from the meter box in to the house- 38mm or some other random diameter. Spark said it doesn't exist and just standard flexible duct.... Did the job.

No piers is fine. I built a shed almost the same size a few years ago and used a pier along the longest back wall. My neighbour and his dad popped round one day, his dad being a builder of 50 years, questioned why I had out the pier in!

Just a backboard. And a very crude door! Make sure your spark leave meter tails and fits the right type of breaker and the 16a commando sockets only. We had ours refused for having a 13a socket wired up.

Pitch pine most likely. If that is a suspended floor with nothing underneath, you'll have terrible draughts unless you do a good job of filling the gaps and sealing the wood.